.

I found that using a hex bit, a short 3/8 drive extension (exactly as you have used) and a 3/8 universal joint with insulating tape wrapped around it to stop it flopping around too much to be the quick way. It brings the ratchet out to the exact position it needs to be in to clear the back of the starter but not too far so the engine mount is in the way. Took me about 10 minutes to change a starter last time although it took me a lot longer the first time to work out how to do it.

I am very averse to disconnecting the battery (resetting the windows isn't a problem but resetting the 9 channel graphic equaliser on my stereo takes days!, I even took my engine out with the battery still connected) so I carefully slacken off the main power feed nut and take it off with fingers (as they don't conduct, not at 12V anyway), shove a length of heater hose over the end of the cable to insulate it and tie wrap it to one side.

But you've done a really nice job on the starter. I've still got the one I took off to refurb.

Nice :)

I've made up an OBD port 12v supply cable - I used it when I replaced all my main positive cables and ground cables, primarily for the same reason as Gilbert - to prevent having to set all the head unit EQ settings again! Plugged the car into a power supply and then disconnected the positive cable from the fusebox, then the battery. I imagine if I locked the car or opened the tailgate plugged in this way, the 5 amp OBD/diagnostic fuse would likely blow, so I just avoided doing so!

I have a spare starter that the solenoid is sticky on. I should probably strip that down and have a look at it at some point.