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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

Evening all, thought I would start a ongoing thread for my home re-spray.

Doing a full body respray from Blenheim Silver to Dark admiralty grey in 2K acrylic. It’s going to take a couple of months I think with evenings and weekends to do it all.

If anyone has any tips or tricks or suggestions as I go along please feel free to comment!

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Here she is at the moment, well that was a few months ago now. Doesn’t look too bad from afar.

More and more trim I’ve removed the more and more corrosion I’ve been finding. Lucky enough nothing too bag, just surface rust.

Forgot to take photos of the rust on the drivers side. A quick Dremmel and then a spray with some Hammerite just to keep the bare metal protected while I wait for the supply’s for the re-spray. Need to get some Alachrom from work to treat the aluminium corrosion prior to priming though.

I stress the hammerite is temporary just to keep the surface rust away for the week while I get set up.

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Quite bad bi-metallic corrosion under the lightguard retainers. And a small dent I will try and pull them fill if I can.

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All the bits turn up on Wednesday next week so I will continue with the strip and corrosion hunt this weekend! Hopefully not too much more to find...... haven’t removed the rear bumper yet! I think I will remove the panels and prime them away from the car as I have a stand, then I can do all the flatting back comfortably.

Already committed with the dremmel and the sanding block so there is no turning back now!!

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

Corrosion, scratches, dents and pretty much anything worse than swirl marks. All marked up with a chalk pen so I don’t miss anything. Makes you reilise how bad the paintwork is when you mark all the stonechips and scratches!

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Member
Joined: Jun 17 2018
Posts: 49

Watching with interest.

Are you doing the entire job outside or do you have access to a garage/paintbooth?

Also what does the HLR badge signify?

H

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

I’ve got a load of plastic sheeting that I’m going covert my carport into a makeshift paint booth.

Got a industrial fan I’ll use for ventilation and I’ve got a forced air mask at work I will borrow.

HLR? I have no idea, I’ve always wondered what it means to. Nothing online I could find, it has pinstriping down the side as well so maybe a custom thing from a previous owner? Maybe the garage it was bought off? Litterally nothing online about it being a special model. And the Reg number isn’t got any obvious history to it that I can find

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

I used the plastic trick when we did my mates MX-5 but we didn’t use 2K paint on his as it was just a track day car

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Joined: Sep 14 2016
Posts: 238

My W plate 4.0 SE has the pinstripe and HLR on the side. But not on the rear. Just 4.0 SE.

Clive

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Joined: Jul 12 2016
Posts: 470

HLR might be some decal added by the dealer that sold it new.

Heathrow Land Rover, Hastings Land Rover...some other city beginning H?

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Joined: Jun 16 2018
Posts: 32

HLR landrover shifnal

If you do a Google search for the above, a defunct link comes up regards 'Hollandrover' or 'HLR' for short.Google provides some historic (brief) detail but if you click on the link, it fails.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1094

Brave man! I'm impressed and wish you luck in the battle against the tin worm.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2683

Not that much tin worm, lots of measles but not much tin worm..... Not sure if they will come off with the sidesteps still in place but the sill trims pop off easily enough. If you take the rear mudflaps off the coloured infill on the rear bumper ends come out so can be sprayed separately.

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 259

Now I'm scared to look at mine too closely - working on the 'What the eye doesn't see'.......gambit

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Joined: Sep 02 2016
Posts: 233

You obviously have a good eye Redraptor: I tend to ignore all my bodywork imperfections.... Having indulged in some 2K spraying myself recently - using the hot weather outside as my 'booth' (!) I will be watching your progress closely. My own work looks great (as long as you don't get within 6 feet !)

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Joined: Jun 17 2018
Posts: 49

Can't wait to see what she looks like when done!

When you're finished you can repaint mine he he he lol

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

Anyone know how to remove the black roof rail trims? Had a little play, looks like clips but I don’t want to force it if is bolted through the roof.

Plus extra holes in the roof seems exactly the kind of think Landrover would do........

Headlining out job? No worry’s if it is as my headlining is very baggy anyway so it will motivate me to get that sorted over summer as well!

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2683

Must be clips as there's no bolts coming through the roof. Whether you'll get them out without breaking anything is another matter though, mine were just masked off (but my roof is in a bit of a state anyway with the filled holes where plod had the radio aerials and light bar mountings).

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 968

The roof rail covers do just pull out - they have spring clips holding them in.

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

Started the strip this afternoon.

So no clips broken by me.......so far! The mudguards has to be ripped off in the then then the screws drilled out! 20 years of being belted directly with mud and water was not good!

But the main thing is there is no rust from the rear doors forward. I’m going to get rid of the door steps I think as they are rusted through and I wouldn’t like to stand on them again now I’ve had a good look at them! Going to have to angle grind the rear bolts off though as nothing is shifting them and the rust has eaten them in to nothing!

I’m not a fan of foot steps anyway so I might just take the brackets off as well then I can treat the whole chassis with POR-15 when I’ve finished the re-spray.

Problem is now, after about 2 months of pure sunshine it’s started raining this evening! Typical! So I think I’ll just continue stripping this weekend and flat back the front wings, lower part of the front grille and the small bits below the headlights.

If I can eat the rear mudflaps off I will remove the little painted panels on the rear bumper to flat them off too

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Cheers for the advice on the roof rails, they came straight off.... even had 20 years of dust and bugs under them!

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

Thinking about these steel rivnuts that are causing all the bi-metallic corrosion with the alluminium panels. Seems they are only supporting the headlight guards. I was thinking of removing the rivnuts and then sorting the panels out, and when it comes to re fitting them, just epoxy glue them on.

Realistically the covers are then bolted to the brackets so I would still be able to remove the covers if needed.

Just figured it would be the safest way to keep the corrosion from coming back

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 849

Do they not do aluminium rivets ?
I’ve got to ask, are you putting those plastic arch covers back

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Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 100

Yeh they do, it just means I’d have to buy a rivnut kit and so on and so forth. Just I’ve got tons of epoxy is all lol.

Busy today! Stripped the rear end down and had to clean the carport as 20 years of dust, poo and rust was piling up. I honestly recon I’ve shifted about 5kg of trapped dirt so far!

Rear bumper nuts both sheared off..... still got the bumper off to reveal this....... not bad seems this is all the rust I’ve found on the car so far (other than a few untreated stone chips)
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Anyone know if you can buy/order just the bumper attachment plate bit? Seems it might be easier to replace than drill out as all 8 bolts move. If not it’s no worry I’ll just take them to work and drill them out at work.

All 4 mud flaps disintegrated on me during removal so they will all need replacing but I figured parts like this into the budjet anyway.

Also started prepping the cars panels that can be removed easily. God it’s taking for ever to get the bloody glue off from the rubber arches!
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There was so much corrosion on the wing under the paint. Why on earth did landrover use steel brackets and clips on aluminium parts!! Just fighting with bi-metallic corrosion.

Anyway with it all removed then removed the paint around the patches to approximately 2cm I applied aluminium chromate to the bare metal to treat it, then applied filler/knifing putty, to fill in the holes and divots where the corrosion once was! Just leaving it to harden over night as the weather is closing in here!

Last job was I cleaned the first wheel arch up, de-greased it and then coated it in a layer of underbody seal, as there was no corrosion under here it seems a waste to paint here what can’t be seen when the liner is in anyway! So I’ve done one coat and I’ll stick another on tommorow, then start on the other side.

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Just a test here to see what’s better. To stipple or to brush. Not that it matters as I can’t see it anyway!
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I’m sure Hamerite splits people as to its quality and longevity, but as I said there was no corrosion under here at all, and this stuff is cheap, on the shelf and easy to apply. I see it as a supplement to the paint that has already lasted 20 years.

No10chris, which ones? The rubber arch covers or the ones on the end of the foot steps? The arch covers will be as I like the contrast they give, not trying to make it too far from standard either. Basically everything that I took off will go back on. Plus any bits that are missing that I can source.

Aka it’s missing the plastic splash guard behind the wing/wheel arch liner on the drivers side.

The foot steps will not be going back on as they are in a right state! Completely rotten, just leaving them on at the moment as there useful to get to the roof.