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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 933

Have we froze, or is everyone running ok for a change. Don’t think I’ve ever seen 3 days without something going on.
If your all running ok, come give me a hand to sort mine out, lol 😆

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2813

I was thinking the same but afraid I'm not going to have time to give you a hand with yours. My MoT is due at the end of the month and I knew the exhaust was getting a little tired so had a crawl around underneath last night to see if there was anything else. OS rear axle oil seal leaking, OS front drag link gaiter perished and split and some weird marking on the rear brake discs which probably explains the slight brake judder under braking from speed that I sometimes get. Not normal brake judder, more a sort of shudder through the whole car. I'll get some photos of them when I change them (probably this weekend) for the pair of Delphi ones I've just ordered from Island. The ones on there are Allmakes and have only been there for 16 months (and have a 1 year warranty so out of luck there).

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Joined: Sep 14 2016
Posts: 267

Probably just heat exhaustion!

Or in my case just heavy duty solitaire trying to make room to get my car lift installed in the garage. Taking forever! One of those six deep have to do this before I can do that so t'other can be done ..... thingies.

Plan A. Just clear out back of garage, pull bike lift out to make room to swivel pallets and unload, put bike lift back in middle of car lift. Rewire for 220 volts three phase from 415 volts. Hook up VFD, thats the really easy bit. Sort out a baby compressor to release the air locks. Build or buy that is the question. Oh and stick mirrors on back wall whilst I'm at it to add light.

Actual. Most of stuff in back of garage has to go up in workshop attic. So sort workshop attic out first. Except insulation under metal roof is falling down so sort that first. Freaking hot and very difficult to do working round all the stuff flat on back. Half done but most of the stuff to be re-homed over the workshop is moved. Remains has to go in house loft so gonna make sone decent shelving first, fed up with the standard pile. Need to reposition the scaffold hoist so it swings over the middle of the trap rather than from one corner. Which means I need a longer scaffold pole so weld two bits together. Which is where we got to yesterday evening! Now the scaffold hoist pivots need re-engineering so it goes full circle ....

Am I gonna get it done before (new) builder turns up to shift a couple of walls old builder put in wrong place when doing the extension!

Oh joy. Now Bridgeport head is rattling like mad over most of the speed range. So that will have to be done in-between. Hate futzing with varidrives!

But my life is now complete. Just paid gas and electricity bill before noticing the old supplier had used well wrong, estimated, readings instead of the ones submitted when I closed the account and switched suppliers. Like you can use negative amounts of electricity -800 odd KWHh in this case. Another hour or more gone on website battles.

Where's my chefs hat, time to cook dinner.

Clive

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1164

I've been too scared to plug in my new saw, so I've been gathering stuff for my Jeep.
I'll get it all done at the weekend though.
Cut up Delrin for EAS calibration blocks
Replace power steering pump pulley and mechanical fan viscous clutch on the Jeep. I've bought me a puller, after seeing what a mess the garage made of my previous replacement when they tried to heat it to get it onto the shaft. The pulleys are plastic.

And, even more scary than a Mitre saw assembled and operated by an amateur - my Mother in Law is coming for her first visit to the new house :(

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Joined: Nov 27 2017
Posts: 177

Well I am still here! As you know Chris mine is running ok just sorting out bits as a when time/money allow.

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 933

Morat wrote:

I've been too scared to plug in my new saw

Don’t be scared of it, just respect it, I would rather of told you the dangers first, before your typing minus fingers, ok, I’ve been using for years, but I’ve had my finger nails trimmed more than once, lol

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

No - we have not froze - just the opposite - outside air temp around 40 degrees in afternoon - not conducive to getting under car and in the cool morning I'm too tired ! Changed the MAF - slight difference in performance but still have the lack of power/reluctance to change down when it should do. I can force a gear change down by tapping pedal twice but it does not do it as necessary and normal. Just content to limp down to the shops for the wine and dog food and will wait for cooler weather which usually comes at beginning of September.
What signal is the ecu not getting to initiate gear change and increase revs ?????

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 933

Chris, have you reset adaptive values yet ?
If it’s been running for months with a bad maf it’s gonna take a while before it adjusts,

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

I did a reset - have not cleaned the MAF yet - but how long should one run on petrol for the adaptives to set before switching to LPG ?

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2813

Should really have cleaned the MAF first, do a reset, then drive it. It will need a variation of different driving conditions, slow acceleration, hard acceleration, constant speed cruising,etc for it to set the values as they should be. Then switch it to gas and see what it is like. The TPS has a big influence on auto gear changes but so does calculated load value which it gets from a combination of TPS, MAF and revs.

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 933

It’s not the same maf, it’s one from east coast rangies, I spoke to Dave, he said was a good one.
Chris, check connections on the tps, I’ll see what I can find as pm..
Gotta get this sorted, can poodle up the Spanish mountains

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

Posted this to Chris already but added here for Gilbert !

The EAS software started as a free prog that Storey developed just for the Suspension - it was wonderful - got me through all the suspension rebuilds and fixes - but it was only the suspension. Later on he worked on a later version which now covers the whole diagnostic thing (without giving individual voltage readings) shows and resets faults and allows reset of adaptives - but he kept the same letters EAS for the prog so I don't think the early people like me caught on to the fact that it was more than just EAS ! Cost about £150 download and comes with special OBD lead to USB.
It shows faults with my ABS which I have not got round to - something about air gaps that Gilbert says you tap in with hammer- and there are some odd things about HEVAC but the aircon seems ok. No faults show on GEMS. I cleaned the MAF yesterday carefully with meth spirit and the outside was filthy as if it had been sprayed with a varnish or some sticky compound. And there is definitely an improvement but the simple fact is that as one approaches a hill or load with accelerator in steady position it does not trigger an automatic change down as you would expect and just labours slower and slower. I trigger a gear change with the Sport button or kicking down accelerator. At other times it accelerates for a bit as you expect and yes it revs up in neutral as normal to top rpm. It seems related to a sensor and I have a nice new CPS waiting to go on or under - and have swapped the TPS back and forth with no difference-(looks ok on ohmmeter) Perhaps I should check the plugs and cables (oily and a bit battered x country ?) that go into the gearbox underneath.
TPS is very hard to find at a decent or any price it seems. Yes I should check TPS connections - plug is ok but couldn't face trying to trace the cable - goes into a loom dosn't it - can I put a meter on anything and if so what should one expect ?
Don't know about poodles up the mountain but yesterday dogs were barking - took one up the hill for a walk and saw these brown ears, brown nose and beady brown eyes looking at us through the bushes - realised it was a wild boar that turned and ran - a few seconds later further down it came into view crossing the track followed by TEN others .............running off like mad. In my ten to fifteen years here I have only ever seen one at a time and only about once a year !

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

By the way - sorry to go on about this - but as far as adaptives are concerned my journey starts all downhill from about 1000 feet for 5 miles. The engine hardly heats up in winter and uses little fuel downhill. Potter around in town on level - RPM hardly ever above 2000 then return up the mountain. I think the adaptives must have had a bit of a job here over the years and still do? My good old Willys jeep never had to put up with all that adaptive nonsense and just went up and down any hill !

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

Thinking more about it - since ALL my journeys start with a 5 mile descent is it possible over the years that this has affected the settings in a way that adaptives now don't adjust ? And even if I do a reset the start is the same 5 mile downhill. I can make a 7 mile journey on the same level to Frigiliana if I have to but usually only do this once a year. Perhaps I should do that after a reset ?

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2813

The free version of EASUnlock was, and still is, excellent. I used that and a generic OBD reader for the first 5 odd years of P38 ownership. When the latest version came out although the screenshots showed a tab for HEVAC, it didn't actually do the HEVAC. I emailed Storey, asked why and was told it would be added to later updates. That put me off a little as he does have a reputation for getting so far with a project and then getting bored and not progressing things. Hence not bothering and finally getting the Nanocom.

Yes, doing a reset and then doing 5 miles on closed throttle will cause it to not calibrate, it needs to see varying loads and conditions. GEMS will also not calibrate if there is less than 1/4 tank of petrol in too, in case any odd mixture running is cause by a low fuel level. Your best bet is to get it down off the mountain, do the reset and then drive it. Willys just had a carb so nothing electronic to reset, other than tweak the points every so often.

As for the gearchange, it should drop down a cog when it starts to struggle but won't if the adaptives haven't sorted themselves out. Giving it a bit more throttle should cause it to kickdown anyway.

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

As usual Gilbert you have filled in some gaps. And I seem destined to do/have everything against the system. Of course my tank is always only a quarter or mostly less !! Why on earth do they make that a factor on the adaptives ?? odd mixture running you say ! Anyway that will be the next task - fill the tank more ! I'm pleased you noted that closed throttle down the mountain could be a problem - that seems logical. Well this afternoon I reset and then drove around the scenic/ring route (levelish but ups and downs) for about 10 miles and although not solved it is slightly better. What I don't understand though is if you do a reset, surely before the adaptives come into it, it should perform like driven out of the factory ?? or do they put them through a sort of adaptive run through before we get them ? The gear change down is still very reluctant !

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Joined: Jan 16 2017
Posts: 300

Putting them back to factory settings would only really help on a new engine, the adaptives are there to adjust as the engine/injectors etc all wear, sensors wear - its designed to compensate for these sort of issues, hence it has to relearn them and won't be perfect immediately.

Quarter of a tank sloshing around could mean your drawing in the odd bit of vapour rather than liquid petrol - its probabbly a bit of an overestimate, but thats why it behaves like that. Bear in mind that 1/4 of a tank of petrol wouldn't take you a massive distance anyway so you wouldn't usually have the level that low for long as the car was designed (without LPG) so the adaptives would adjust the rest of the time anyway.

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

Yes Brian - what you say makes sense - Thanks for explaining the reasons - I've fallen into bad habits up my mountain but it was perfect until about a year ago. Will just have to do my homework and try and get it back as before.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
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The adaptives are things like a MAF correction factor, a correction to the fuel mapping to account for worn injectors, a drifted fuel pressure regulator and so on. As Brian says, on a brand new engine with brand new sensors and everything working as it should, then there will no corrections needed so the factory settings in the engine ECU will be spot on. But, you don't have brand new components so things will have aged and that is where the adaptive values come into play

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Joined: Jun 07 2017
Posts: 265

I will be an expert by the time all this is done - can't believe all this knowledge is always in the official garages !