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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Sep 13 2016
Posts: 432

Bleh, sore fingers now!

So the latch is in, seems to work fine, door shuts smoother too which is nice. Also replaced the plastic piece in the handle when i had it apart, thats one fiddly ass job! Handle is much better, but still sticks out a tiny bit unless you push it.

Not all perfect though. The linkage going to the door pin seems to be rubbing on the inside of the door for some reason. Also found some pieces of rubber in the bottom of the door, will post a pic of it.

What i'd really like is a spare set of door handles to clean up and paint and install new cams etc, but they seem hard to get hold of.

Oh, and my remote still wont pair.

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Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 1064

Remember early disco ones are the same ( if I remember correctly)

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Joined: Jul 12 2016
Posts: 772

Weren't early Disco door handles square flap type ones?

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Joined: Sep 13 2016
Posts: 432

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SxGKhk5mA8BkJBj27

That's the two rubber seals, also a metal thing I found that might be off the door or somewhere else inside the car?

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Joined: Dec 14 2018
Posts: 83

As a new member of the P38 clan, I find these threads both interesting and scary.

I received only one Key/fob with my 2000 P38. It only works like a normal key. It starts the truck and will lock and unlock by turning in the door lock.

Even with a new battery the red light never comes on when you press lock or unlock. Does not lock or unlock remotely- even when I walk right up to the antenna/receiver. Does not sync up following the method outlined in the owners manual or what I have read in many threads.

So could be a problem with the internal contacts as I have seen in a few Youtube videos.

I assume that while I have no starting issues at the moment- I need to plan for the future.

I know of someone parting out a P38 and has asked what parts I would like to buy. I do not know the year- but if it is a Thor like mine- should I buy the door lock and all of the internal bits with the hope the parts may be in good condition. At least I may be able to refurbish and have one the shelf.

Any Youtube's showing refurbishment?

I am very happy to hear that there may be a solution coming to program new keys now that -at least in the US- LR is not offering new key FOBs to current P38 owners. How would that work if I only have my single key - I assume if new keys can eventually be programmed - the programmer would need my key to read/scan.

While there are a few videos floating around of showing how to move the guts of your FOB into a new cover--- and a few showing how to repair broken internal contacts-- should I take the chance of pulling my only fob apart and try to diagnose the lack of red light going on?

Lucky for me I never have used the remotes on any of my cars/trucks to lock or unlock so I am not in the habit or even think about it. I rarely ever lock my cars manually either.

Until I read many "cannot start" threads, I was under the impression that if I never used my FOB to remotely lock/unlock- or manually lock/unlock then the condition of my FOB is not or could not be a problem. I figured that my ignition switch is the active part and the key was passive when it comes to starting the truck if I never locked or unlocked the doors.

Now I am not very clear on this. So new to the P38--- I do not know what I do not know.

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Joined: Jul 12 2016
Posts: 772

I know someone selling a full BECM, keys and lock set if any one needs/wants to swap the whole lot for a working set?

It's from a 4.6 Thor.

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Joined: Mar 26 2016
Posts: 280

MarkTr wrote:

As a new member of the P38 clan, I find these threads both interesting and scary.

I received only one Key/fob with my 2000 P38. It only works like a normal key. It starts the truck and will lock and unlock by turning in the door lock.

Even with a new battery the red light never comes on when you press lock or unlock. Does not lock or unlock remotely- even when I walk right up to the antenna/receiver. Does not sync up following the method outlined in the owners manual or what I have read in many threads.

So could be a problem with the internal contacts as I have seen in a few Youtube videos.

I assume that while I have no starting issues at the moment- I need to plan for the future.

I know of someone parting out a P38 and has asked what parts I would like to buy. I do not know the year- but if it is a Thor like mine- should I buy the door lock and all of the internal bits with the hope the parts may be in good condition. At least I may be able to refurbish and have one the shelf.

Any Youtube's showing refurbishment?

I am very happy to hear that there may be a solution coming to program new keys now that -at least in the US- LR is not offering new key FOBs to current P38 owners. How would that work if I only have my single key - I assume if new keys can eventually be programmed - the programmer would need my key to read/scan.

While there are a few videos floating around of showing how to move the guts of your FOB into a new cover--- and a few showing how to repair broken internal contacts-- should I take the chance of pulling my only fob apart and try to diagnose the lack of red light going on?

Lucky for me I never have used the remotes on any of my cars/trucks to lock or unlock so I am not in the habit or even think about it. I rarely ever lock my cars manually either.

Until I read many "cannot start" threads, I was under the impression that if I never used my FOB to remotely lock/unlock- or manually lock/unlock then the condition of my FOB is not or could not be a problem. I figured that my ignition switch is the active part and the key was passive when it comes to starting the truck if I never locked or unlocked the doors.

Now I am not very clear on this. So new to the P38--- I do not know what I do not know.

Silly question ............. have you checked the batteries in the fob?

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 3208

More to the point, when you changed the batteries in the fob did you check that the contact was lining up with the contact of the battery holder. Sometimes the battery hold has to be in just the right position to make contact.

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Joined: Dec 14 2018
Posts: 83

Yup-- tried two or three new batteries. I fooled around with both positive leaf spring contacts and the negative leaf spring cleaning them up with contact cleaner. No red light. I assume the red light should go on even if you are playing with it nowhere near the truck.

Pressing it while trying to sync- no red light on the shift or the dash either.

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Joined: Feb 11 2018
Posts: 46

Re the core charge, I think £20 too little. Most folk will look at that and think £90 for a lock. Still half price, bargain. £50 would probably make folk think twice. It would me!

I thi K my motor has gone. All switches test OK.
I've got a rear door latch, do you think it's the same motor and how hard to remove or is it the whole plastic plate?

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 3208

Removing the motor is easy enough, it slides on, so a sideways push and it comes out.

As for the bits Aragorn has found, the strips, or at least one of them, appear to be from the inside of the runners that the window slides in. If you slam the door with the window open, does it rattle? If it does, that's because the runner has lost it's rubber. The lump of metal looks to be the clip that holds the air vent in place on the end of the dash, so what it is doing inside the door is anyone's guess.....

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Joined: Sep 13 2016
Posts: 432

yeh the window does rattle! Need to see about refitting those!

The clip wasnt inside the door, it was in the passenger door pocket along with some other assorted parts that i'd removed from the drivers door like the tweeter panel :P I couldnt remember if it came from the door, or came from somewhere else. The knee panel bit under the steering column is off, so i suspect its related to that?

I've also managed to break the tweeter panel removing it, so i need a new one of those too. Feels like fix one thing and add more onto the bottom of the list at the moment!

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 3208

The clip will be related to the knee panel being off. I've found those clips laying around above the knee panel and for a while couldn't work out where they had come from so the a) fall off regularly, and b) as the vent doesn't fall out of the dash, don't do a lot anyway.

I had a pair of tweeter panels as the car a mate bought had the panels but someone had removed the tweeters from behind them. I got a pair of panels complete with tweeters for him so had the panels kicking around. I'm trying to remember either where I put them or if I threw them away thinking I would never need them......