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Joined: Jun 17 2018
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I've bought a new/used latch for the drivers door..

The circumstances to how the previous one failed has me worried..

It appeared to die right after i pressed the tailgate button, Fuse 15 went POP and it hasn't worked since.

I've had to disconnect everything in the tailgate to stop the fuse blowing..

I'm thinking as to connect the new latch, will fuse 15 blowing damage the latch?

Also is it possible for a faulty latch to cause the fuse to blow?

Cheers H

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
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At risk of sounding like someone else, read the diagram. As I explained in the other thread, power from Fuse 15 goes to the tailgate motor, then to the pushbutton, then through the CDL switch in the door latch and the door outstation to ground. I suppose it is feasible that the CDL switch was burnt out with 20A+ going through it (they are rated at 0.1A and a 20A fuse would need about 40A for a very short time to blow). So, either your tailgate motor has gone short circuit (or the wiring to it has shorted together) so as soon as you pressed the pushbutton you were connecting the power directly to ground. With the wiring to the tailgate disconnected, you won't damage the replacement latch but you do need to investigate the motor. I think I have a spare one floating around if you get stuck.

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Joined: Jun 17 2018
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Ah yes thanks..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-2000-LATER-TAILGATE-BOOT-LOCK-MOTOR-ACTUATOR/183705469614?hash=item2ac5b302ae:g:~PgAAOSwl5tamxWJ

Is this what i'd be looking for?

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That's the one. But test yours first in case the wiring has shorted and there is nothing wrong with the motor.

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Gilbertd wrote:

That's the one. But test yours first in case the wiring has shorted and there is nothing wrong with the motor.

Ah yes that's a good idea.. Thanks

You Check for resistance across the terminals i'm guessing?

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Yup.

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The switch itself has a spike of 16.0 OHMS and it gradually drops down to 0.19.

MAke any sense..

Not really a leecy wizard lol

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Not sure I understand. What are you testing and how?

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Putting my multimeter on ohms and putting the prongs on the terminals in the latch.

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Which switch are we talking about? The tailgate switch, or the CDL switch in the door latch?

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Sometimes get a brief spurious reading when you first connect up a digital multimeter, probably more of a reflection of it's sampling speed and averaging the reading between open circuit and load.

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Joined: Jun 17 2018
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Martyuk wrote:

Which switch are we talking about? The tailgate switch, or the CDL switch in the door latch?

The drivers door latch and the The rear tailgate latch..

The fuse 15 blows every time i plug in any of the wiring for the tailgate..

I'm just trying to narrow down the short.

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Joined: Jul 12 2016
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Can you use a piece of wire to bridge the terminals in the plug for the tailgate?

That would complete the circuit without the motor. If the fuse still blows you know it's not the motor.

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I accidentally put a self tapper through a wire on Morat's P38, that was one of only 2 occasions I've ever done that on any of my LPG installs.
For a moment when flicking through this thread I got a bit worried, thought it was RutlandRover with the possible short circuit and I converted RutlandRover's car... But I didn't convert Strangerover's car so not guilty! Made it up to Morat since lol.

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Nope not me! As far as I know my electrical system is OK - although now I've said something is now bound to fail!

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and now you've said it is OK, something IS going to fail to make a liar out of you......

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I think it's on its best behaviour at the moment because it knows the Freelander is being naughty again. It's letting the Freelander do all the work to make the Range Rover look good.

The crankshaft pulley on the Freelander died on Wednesday. Double wide pulley with a large rubber centre that acts as a vibration damper. Horrible, horrible clanking noise from the engine - undriveable as it would lead to more extensive damage and needed fixing ASAP. Quicker than I'd be able to get around to it as it needs special tools to lock the crank in place and another special tool to hold the pulley in place etc.

So yesterday it went down to the place that did the gearbox (proving themselves to be a very good place to have on hand) who confirmed what it was and said they couldn't get a pulley anywhere locally besides the main dealer - at around £450!!! For a bloody pulley. Nuts.

Ordered a pulley and both drive belts from Bearmach (£100 all in, including next day AM delivery) at around 3:30pm yesterday, it arrived this morning and they got it turned around nice and quick.

So, the Range Rover is the golden child of the driveway at the moment. Yes, it has some niggles but it's all DIY-able and none of it stops the car from driving. The Freelander is made of cheese and I'm starting to really, really dislike it. It's had two quite serious failures in the space of a month and a bit, both of which have disabled the car and both of which aren't easily DIY-able without special tools or some level of bodgery.

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I've welded vibration damper type pulleys up before, works out even cheaper than scrapyards. Also welded up freewheeling type pulleys on alternators.. They never fail again after that!

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Doesn't that then give you a very unbalanced pulley that will vibrate more?

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I would take the door card off and unplug the door latch, and then see if F15 still blows when the tailgate latch/wiring is plugged in

If it does then your short is somewhere before the door latch.

It could be possible it's a damaged wire in the tailgate loom that is causing it, or a dead motor in the tailgate latch itself.