I have to say... I really like the quality of sound in mine - but it has door amps from factory. Marty's DSP amp replacement using door amps (I'm guessing what you've done Rutland) should sound just as good if the wiring is up to it.
Yeah, that's what I've done. I'm pretty sure the issues are from my wiring/soldering (in)ability. There a whine that increases with engine RPM. There's a constant crackle/white noise from the rear passenger side. I'm not sure if it's as far back as the sub or if it's the rear door. I feel like it's right back in the boot though. It seems to be related in some way to the lights. If I turn the lights on, it stops. If I brake, it stops. If I indicate, it stops and starts with the indicators.
All of the speakers drop out from time to time and it's a different one each time. They come back if I go over a bump in the road. The driver side tweeter crackles and there's a sound through one of the speakers like a spring pinging when I open a door.
When it's all working it does sound great though :P
That, along with a sub output, is all you need. The DSP feeds the bass speaker on a separate feed to the mid range and tweeter but you could just parallel them up or run via a 2 or 3 way external crossover. So the FR output would be connected to all 3 speakers in the FR door. I suspect the DSP amp has the crossover built in so rather than it having 8 outputs, it still only has 4 but with the front feeds going via an internal crossover and giving a bass output and a mid/tweeter output from the same input. Having 3 separate speakers is no different, in fact preferable, to having a 3 way component speaker. Most cars these days run 3 speakers per channel so any head unit should be capable of powering them.
I'll admit that I don't much at all about how to wire car stereos. I have a feeling I might have asked my question the wrong way on the forum I used due to a lack of knowledge on my part. I asked specifically how to retain a separate bass, mid and tweeter in the front doors etc rather than how best to replace the set up and retain SOME KIND of bass, mid and tweeter.
I understand what you're saying about the DSP splitting the feed between multiple speakers but isn't the DSP is also an amplifier that outputs more power per channel than a headunit to achieve enough power at each individual speaker?
The question at the top of the thread was about removing the DSP amplifier, fitting a subwoofer with a dedicated amp and powering the speakers directly from the headunit (unless I've misunderstood the question).
Would using one channel to power three speakers not reduce the amount of power each speaker gets meaning you lose overall volume and/or quality from each speaker? IE: if you split a 45w (the power my Android headunit claims to output per channel, unsure if that's peak or RMS) channel to three speakers wouldn't you then only have 3x 15w speakers? This is the assumption I made that led me to wanting power to each of the speakers.
If you remove the DSP from the system and use 4x headunit outputs to power 10 speakers wouldn't you end up with underpowered speakers?
Again, I don't have a great understanding of this stuff so I could well be very wrong which would explain why I've seemingly come to the conclusion that it's difficult to do what I think needs doing :P
What we don't know is what you are trying to achieve (other than having window rattling bass). I know you've got the Android unit installed but you've retained your original Alpine head unit. Are you planning on retaining that or are you going to change that too?
I'm not looking to win any bass competitions or blow out my toddlers eardrums :P
I'd mainly like to just retain the audio quality of the original setup (or perhaps even improve it) but without the whines, crackles and drop outs that I have now.
I haven't retained the Alpine headunit. All I have is the Android headunit where the factory satnav used to sit.