rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I feel vaguely inadequate..! I haven't done very much to my car of late, though I do eventually want to write up the things I have been up to in my own thread. I'll likely get round to that now that the nights are drawing in.

But I'm just using the car as/when I can. I've had a couple of good runs these last few days - up to one of the ferry ports in the NW highlands. Only me in the car, so I had a bit of "performance leeway". I enjoyed what might be called a 'spirited' drive - overtaking when safe and appropriate opportunities presented themselves. These are roads I know very well, and we're not into the frost yet, so it is just fun to get the old girl up to speed and keep her there. Planting the foot and letting the engine do its work on an overtake brings a smile to my face. Park her up for a couple of days, back off the ferry; fire her up and repeat on the way home!

It reminded me that the Range Rovers have always had a place in my heart since I saw my first ever, walking home from school about 1978/79, a two door classic in a lime/heritage type green. Only on my 4th now... but still enjoying it.

All that said, it's a heavy lump to be throwing about a twisty A road, and I'm not sure my Britpart shockers are doing me any favours... I'll dig around in the archives here and see what's what.

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I agree, the P38 is a joy to drive.

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Replaced my ABS Ecu to cure speedo woes

Only to have more questions than answers

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Failed its MOT this morning....

One rear shock (apparently loose due to a corroded washer)
Passenger wiper blade (which looks perfectly okay to me)

Not bad for 28 years old!

Ordered a pair of Bilsteins for it, anyone got the bad news on how much of an arse these will be to change?

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With a big long socket extension and a breaker bar, you can do it with the wheel on the ground and the suspension on High. Not that difficult at all.

You've got a pretty strict tester there though. If it was bad enough to fail the test I would have thought you would hear it when going over bumps.

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Yeah tbh i've not even looked yet to see whats going on. Shocks arrived this morning. Will maybe see if i can pull it into the garage one evening this week and have a look underneath!

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Got the old girl backed in to her new residence.

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Should keep me and the old bus dry while I work though some of her faults.

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Lovely clean floor crept for the “well she’s got oil in her” marks.

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Changed both coil packs.
New plugs and leads.
MAF cleaned.
Replaced cabin filters
Oil and filter
Replaced wiper blades front, rear and headlamps.

Next, in 4989 miles, is my 150,000 mile service when all undercarriage fluids and filters get replaced.

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Which car is that in James? Not the Linley surely?

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@Gilbertd….not the Linley. She has driven about 50 miles since the rebuild. I was supposed to take her to the British By The Sea car show in CT ( http://www.ctmgclub.com/BBTS.html ) last summer but the car transport trailer I had booked never materialized. Hopefully I will be able to show it at that event in summer of 2023.

The work completed and to be done is for the Holland & Holland…. She will also need a repaint in the next few years. It has began to develop this two annoying stain marks on roof just above the front windshield. Seems common on all Landrovers from that era. Has anyone ever figured out what causes those marks?

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Mine has it too, its the lacquer degrading from the sun.

Probably because not many bother to wax the roof, let alone clean it in some cases so the clear coat suffers..

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I found an unexpected problem, on Sunday, after washing the car before its annual road test tomorrow [Wednesday].

I had a brake pad wear out on the front passenger side about three weeks ago. I posted the question here, but at the time I didn't drive the car very much after getting the same answer here that I had in my mind. I mentioned, in the previous post, that the front wheel was quite dirty from brake dust, which was of course the clue to what was happening.

What I hadn't expected, and I only discovered when I washed the car, was the heavy dirtying along the passenger side of the car from the brake pad iron oxide. I had driven the car in the rain just after I noticed the front brakes acting oddly, not for very far, and obviously the wheel spray had deposited a layer of oxide all along the paintwork on the car.

I couldn't believe how rough it was, especially as I put a ceramic finish on the car last spring. I didn't expect that the oxide dust would really lodge on the paint surface. The answer was to use a clay bar and clean the whole passenger side of the car. The drivers side was, and is, perfectly fine and didn't need any attention, but there was some oxide on the lower tailgate on the passenger side.

So, I spent this morning rubbing down the passenger side paintwork with the clay bar, and then putting a fresh coat of polish on the ceramic finish. I am now happy to say that the paint has a nice satin smooth finish - again.

I will be much more particular from now on, checking the brake pad thickness, as I don't want the same thing to happen again.

Pierre3.

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Lately, have not been using the queen too much, so I decided to do a long time planned thing ... first a good pressure wash the underside, then on ramps and armed with brush and Fertan went through every spot with some corrosion.
Let it dry and wiped the excess, and then another few hours (around 4, actually) with Protecta (I assume is equivalent to the Hammerite you find in UK) ... I think it should be good and ready for the winter season!

About my ABS woes, I have not time to go through the wiring, but I noticed connecting the Nano that the "rough road" signal fluctuates between 0 and 12V even when I am doing manouvering speed in flat tarmac. I suspect then one of the sensors is acting up, and sending a signal the ABS ECU interprets as "rough road". Will follow this on the next possible opportunity.

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Water leaking under the dash on the driver’s side.

I suspected the pollen filter housing might be leaking through the cover so made (another) gasket for the cover. No change, still leaking.

I pulled the pollen filter out but it looked OK and dry so I was somewhat perplexed at where the water ingress was occurring so I taped around the windscreen on that side to exclude a windscreen leak but it still made no difference.

I had heard that water can ingress via the screws that hold the small plastic scuttle pieces in place so I removed the easily accessible one and, yes, it’s threads were wet. I injected some clear RTV into the screw hole and ensured the flanged head had RTV under it as well. Made no difference.

I pulled the windscreen side and bottom trim off and the small plastic scuttle trim off that side. Bit dirty underneath but all still looked OK. I again pulled the pollen filter and, again it looked OK . . . until I tipped it sideways and water ran from within its folds. I then examined the housing more closely and, yes, there were signs of moisture in there. I pulled out the plastic captive nut that protrudes into the pollen filter housing and examined it. It still seemed intact and had not split anywhere but the small seal under its collar where it plugs in had disintegrated. I reinstalled it but with RTV sealer under the collar and a ring of RTV externally around it so it was sealed from moisture once the small scuttle panel was reinstalled. Dried out the pollen filter and it’s housing and reinstalled filter and cover. Problem sorted.

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i need to sort that on mine ^

except mine seems to be the passenger side.

Currently have a dehumidifier running inside it trying to pull some of the dampness out, its starting to smell a bit.

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https://i.imgur.com/L9ljrvR.jpg
enter image description here

Could this be the culprit?

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Most probably. Under that screw 'hole' in the small plastic scuttle cover there should be a press in square plastic housed captive nut. The hole for the captive nut assembly goes directly into the pollen filter housing below. The plastic housing has a gasket under its 'shoulder' to seal it but mine had disintegrated. When you screw into it it naturally lifts the plastic captive nut housing upwards and water leaks under the 'shoulder' and into the pollen filter housing and from there under the dash and into the footwell.

Options are a) make another small gasket from neoprene sheet or similar; b) 'glue' the captive nut assembly in position with RTV; or c) buy a new replacement captive nut assembly.

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Left the window open in the rain for the second time in a week...

Drivers side this time, just to even it out
😭

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Did some towing the other day, heaviest I've done at least.
Around 2,1 ton I guess, the trailer is damn heavy. Pushed it on some of the hills around here that are known to overheat, and the highest coolant temp we got on the Faultmate was 93degC. The altitude here is high, and it is hot so the air is quite thin (helps with visiting rugby teams, hinders good cooling). I'm happy with that 😄

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