"Pardon!"

"Sorry did you say something?"

"You'll have to speak-up."

Yep. My hearing is worse than crap at the best of times but lying under the car those things are 'kin too darn loud even for me.

Clive

While we're on the subject, what is most likely to shear a bolt impact wrench, or breaker bar? In my experience its the breaker bar, which provides major torque without loosening the threads. On the other hand, I've had exhaust studs go with just my (comparatively weedy) impact wrench.
I guess in reality, success is a combo of both, after some plusgas

Yeah I've wondered that too, and I also suspect a breaker bar is more likely to shear off the bolt or stud, but it's always a one off, so hard to know.

I feel like the impact wrench is more likely to apply a "straight" torque to the bolt but a breaker bar is pulling it sideways. I've always had good results getting things like rusted-in bleed nipples free using a T-bar and a 6-face socket, and using the T-bar like you would with a tap and die - equal pressure on both sides so you're only turning it and not applying any sideways force.

Just had to do that on the Masser callipers but they'd been rounded off in the past so I soaked them in Plus Gas then put the bleed nipples in a bench vice and unscrewed the calliper from the nipple.

I did EAS on the Borrego, and found that the Muppets at the tire shop had blasted the nuts on so tight that
my poor old 1/2 inch breaker bar just could not break them. I had to go borrow a 3/4 in drive bar and socket from a truck mechanic friend and use a 4 ft pipe on that......Had to stand on the end and bounce as well.
Not rusted, just very tight. Glad I had not needed to change a flat at the roadside!
Used a bit of anti seize and torqued to proper values.
I used to always check on the tire shop's work the same day I had tires done, and failed to do that this time.
Looking at getting one of these impacts as well.......One of us always carried one when out in the Oz Bush......