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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Cool thanks - it was mostly a curiosity, as I mentioned my fobs never worked and I only used the key, and plus my BeCM was "disarmed" and EKA was off as well. This might soon change ... :-)

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leolito wrote:

Cool thanks - it was mostly a curiosity, as I mentioned my fobs never worked and I only used the key, and plus my BeCM was "disarmed" and EKA was off as well. This might soon change ... :-)

Is it back yet?!?

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I can concur with Martys' explanation. I find that, occasionally, I lock the car with the fob but when I return after a period [maybe 5 minutes, maybe an hour] the fob doesn't open the car again.

Then I have to unlock the car with the key, but immediately do the EKA reset or else I can't start the car. If I put the key into the ignition I get the message about pressing the button on the fob to reregister the key, but that doesn't usually work, and I have to get back out, close the door and reset the key in the door, and then everything is fine again for a couple of months. It doesn't particularly bother me because I know how to fix the problem when it happens.

My plan about modifying a LHD passenger side front door handle are currently on hold. Firstly, Rimmers tell me that I will be able to get a new RHD drivers' side front door handle with a new barrel, but I will just have to have a bit of patience. And secondly, despite Harv from Canada kindly giving me a LHD VIN [ and thanks to Leolito for your offer to do the same] I didn't get to order a LHD handle yet. It does appear that all the handles are order from JLR, and are not kept on the shelf by anyone.

Interestingly, it is quite easy to buy the RHD passenger front door handle, I bought one along with the two rear handles, but it seems quite difficult to buy a LHD passenger front door handle. Anyway I will wait a while in the hope that Rimmers come through with a new drivers' door handle.

Pierre3.

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It is ... haven't had time to go pick it up yet from the courier's office :-(

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At last, my mission is complete.

In the post, this morning, a brand new driver's side door handle arrived from Rimmer Bros, complete with a new key barrel.

And I am very pleased to say that the key works perfectly in the lock.

After all the fuss and messing about Rimmers came through with a new unit, so now I will have all new door handles on my P38.

I must have a look at the difference between the locking mechanism on the back of the handle, and that on the back of the passenger side, to see whether my original idea of using a LHD handle would have worked.

So, if anyone does want a new driver's side door handle with a new barrel, give Rimmers a call.

Pierre3.

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A last post to finish this thread.

I fitted the new door handle today, and everything is working fine. But a couple of things might help anyone else doing the job.

[1] As mentioned by someone elsewhere here, the aluminium lock trigger arm did snap off when I tried to lever the locking arm from out of the spring retainer on the locking arm. In my case, it didn't matter because I was fitting a complete new handle.

[2] I didn't notice a solid metal block that acts as a spacer between the inner and outer door panel, where the screw for the door handle goes through. While I was lifting the handle out I heard a 'bang' from inside the door and only then did I find the metal block in the bottom of the door. The easiest way to relocate this block is to put it back in the door through the handle opening and then keep it in position with a screwdriver, and then push the handle screw through the hole, pushing the screwdriver back out.

In my case the threading in the handle wasn't correct, and I had to tap the hole with a 6mm tap.

[3] When refitting the handle make sure that the handle is relocated by slotting the end at the front of the handle into the locating slot in the door - before connecting any of the unlocking rods. I connected the lock trigger rod first, and then realised that you can't lift the handle out to an angle of 90 degrees because the lock rod won't allow the movement in the handle. So it took some careful opening of the spring retainer on the locking rod to disconnect the handle again. Then fit the front end into the door and bring the handle back parallel with the door, connect the arm that goes to the green clip in the door, reconnect the lock activating arm back into the retaining clip, and screw the door handle back on the door.

If I hadn't had to struggle with the metal spacer block, and re-tapping the thread in the handle, the job would would probably have been done in an hour, a fairly easy job, and a great result as I now have a perfectly working drivers's side door handle, which also matches all the other, new, handles. No more white ones, now !!

Pierre3.