Gilbertd wrote:
Looking at the dark side, it turns out it was a faulty engine ECU......
Except that he's posted back and it's coming up with a bunch of codes again...
Gilbertd I swapped out the ECU and did find some suspect connections on the circuit board of the one I removed but I still have 5 codes.
Got all 6 codes back now. Did drive cycle c as advised and still the same.
At the same time as I was replacing the O2 sensors I pulled the upper intake to find my coolant leak at the back of the motor. I forgot to undo the ground strap at the back of the intake and pulled on it a bit before I realized. Is the ground related to the O2's? It has to be a common wire between all 4 sensors to create the issue I have. I checked Rave and all wires on the O2's go to different pins on the ECU. There is nothing common between the 4. Anyway here is the Nanocom O2 section at idle.
On another delightful note my left head is leaking exhaust, coolant and oil. I have a set of heads at the machine shop getting them ready. Paid $100 for a set off a disco 2. Ordered Head Gaskets, Lifters, Pushrods, Camshaft, etc.. Gonna be busy next week.
RH Upstream
C0645 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 10 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 16 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 13 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01
LH Upstream
C0644 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 9 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 15 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 19 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01
RH Downstream
C0642 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 8 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 14 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 1 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01
LH Downstream
C0643 C0635 Resistance
Pin 1 Pin 11 0.01
Pin 2 Pin 17 0.01
Pin 3 Pin 7 0.01
Pin 4 Fuse 26 0.01
Where do I go from here? No wiring issues.
Tested the heater circuit on each bosch sensors.
9.3 on 3 of them and 7.3 on RH Downstream
Tested the heater circuit on aftermarket ones and got 13.3 on all four.
Got 2.3 on old senor
I think I have solved the whole O2 problem. I checked the numbers stamped on the O2 online and discovered that the ones I received were actually for Acura/Honda. They arrived with no boxes as the seller buys them bulk or so he says. I never thought to check the numbers beforehand. Everything about them was identical.
They sound like the same aftermarket ones I got. The threads were totally different and they use a completely different sensor technology.
I'm surprised you even got them to fit!
I didn't have any issues fitting them. Same thread, same connectors.
The camshaft was worn as suspected. I measured a couple of the lobes to compare and got almost 4mm difference on some.
Full top end rebuild done and the motor sounds so happy I think it wants to hug me! Lol.
Nicely done!!
4mm difference is crazy! It's amazing it was still running with just those codes!
Fingers crossed mine purrs like a big V8 kitten once it gets started up!
The Cam difference was so great I had to reset the adaptive values for it to idle correct. New Bosch O2 sensors on the way from rockauto. Also have a small coolant leak somewhere near the thermostat to figure out.
I have 2 fresh codes on the truck that I must solve.
P1000 = AIR FLOW TO THROTTLE ANGLE
CROSS CHECK FAULT DRIVE CYCLE B
OCCURRED 8 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
P1000 = ENGINE THERMOSTAT DEFECTIVE
OCCURRED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
I did notice on my way home from work that the temp gauge was taking forever to get to center. So when I was checking the coolant temperature I also pulled the codes. Coolant temp was 81. I replaced the thermostat 1 month ago.
At least you've got rid of the O2 sensor codes now. The first one is a new one on me and would suggest either a problem with the throttle position sensor and/or MAF sensor. The second one is one I've not seen before either but I suppose it's a fairly easy one to achieve. If the engine takes too long to warm up then the thermostat must be at fault. It wasn't a Britpart stat you fitted by any chance?
Oh the O2 sensor ones are still there until my parts arrive from Rockauto. I also have 2 codes for the Secondary air as I swapped back in my old ECU. I will order a new thermostat but the first code has me worried. My idle is smooth most of the time but fluctuates a bit so it could be either of the sensors you mentioned. The new one in there is allmakes.
Just cleaned the MAF sensor and IACV. Idle fluctuation still there. It is directly related to the AC kick on/off. I also cleaned the electrical connections on each unit and applied dielectric grease to the connections.
I am going to clean the Throttle body and test the TPS tomorrow or thursday evening.
Ordered a new thermostat, should be here monday or tuesday. Sucks draining the coolant again!
Two codes posted above have not returned yet.
Everything is sorted and running great.
Idle issue was caused by the cruise cable tightening up somehow. I cleaned throttle body anyway.
Thermostat replaced and heater working again. Old thermostat had a snapped spring. Probably snapped the first time it opened.
All check engine codes gone. New O2 sensors fitted and swapped back in the NON-SAI ECU.
SRS light off after re-seating all connections to airbags with dielectric grease.
The truck drives like it never did in my ownership. Nice power at 3500 to 4500 rpm. Economy should be better now too.
Well done Ray, it just goes to show that a little fiddling can get everything working as it should. It may have caused you a lot of greif but you got there in the end.
I could take this truck apart and put it back together without a manual at this point. But I still love it! Lol
Lovely news to hear!
I hope I notice the difference in drive to mine when I finally get the chance to get the engine swapped!
Marty
rayodunne wrote:
Everything is sorted and running great.
Idle issue was caused by the cruise cable tightening up somehow. I cleaned throttle body anyway.
The truck drives like it never did in my ownership. Nice power at 3500 to 4500 rpm. Economy should be better now too.
Got to admit I was surprised the difference setting up the cables to proper spec made. ran better, changes were crisper. Results were way more than you'd expect from a bit of adjustment fiddling.