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Guys, planning to do a fluid swap and general maintenance bleed on the brakes soon and replace the accumulator for good measure. This will be the first time I've played with the system, I understand to follow the RAVE instructions to the letter so no issues there.

Questions:
Looking at the modulator bleed screw locations, it seems to me that the easiest way to get to them particularly the long one at the back, would be to shift the coolant tank out of the way. Reasonable?

What are people's experiences for the calipers? Wheels off and the vehicle on stands, or as easy crawling underneath, wheels on?

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I've always done mine with the car up on four strong axle stands. Easy to get at calipers and the job can be done in a single sequence.

Modulator bleed screws are a bit tricky to get at. I have a brake line type spanner, 6 point ring minus one side, that is a decent shape for access. Williams brand that I've had for maybe 30 years so current version may be different. No need for great torque so heating and bending the shank to adjust a spanner shape will be OK.

As its a two person job I reckon the most useful accessory is a pair of task list sheet sets with each part of the job listed in sequence and a box to be ticked when each part has been done. One sheet for each participant. Use the classic instruction, read back, execute , check off sequence.

If you've not done the job before and are trying to work off the listing in RAVE its very easy to get mixed up, loose your place, or work at cross purposes. Got my version of the sheets as a pdf on the computer "somewhere" so PM me if you think a copy may help.

Despite the number of steps involved brake bleeding on a P38 is an easy "painting by numbers" job. Unless there is an underlying fault it just works! Unlike certain lesser vehicles where brake bleeding can be equivalent to hoisting a banner invitation of the "Gremlin Party Here Today. Free Entry. Free Beer." variety.

Clive

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I've just done this on one of ours last week so it's fresh in my memory...

If you lift the coolant bottle out of the way it does improve access. You don't need to completely remove it. The rear screws on the modulator are awkward but not bad. I used just a standard open ended spanner to loosen/tighten them.

The bleed nipples on the calipers are easily accessed when the car is on it's wheels from the back of the wheel so unless you need the wheels off, it's probably not worth it.

Ours had 2 new calipers fitted, all new brake flexi hoses and the front calipers were removed for cleaning and painting so all our fluid was lost. To get it bled properly took about 3 attempts, however, the last time I just changed the fluid it was easily done on the 1st attempt.

Also, like you say, follow RAVE to a tee.

David.

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Thanks all.

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I can remember many years ago trimming the soundproofing slightly around the modulator to get better access to the nipples.

I also replace the nipples on the modulator and calipers as necessary every few years, usually when I change the fluid. Along with the slider pins.
It makes the job easier.