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When I first connected up the secondhand pipe work for the EAS there were a couple of obvious leaks.

As part of the restoration I rebuilt the valve block and compressor with new O rings etc.

I followed the useful guidance on this link when testing the setup.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf

Initially the RH front corner dropped overnight.

I went through the test sequence and found that testing just line 6 to the reservoir, the compressor cut out at 4 bar. I presumed it was a faulty presure switch but tested the compressor just on the front right line. It went easily up to 11 bar and cut out as it should. Pressure held for 15 minutes.

Yesterday I reconnected every line and it took 8 minutes to settle at standard height from completely empty and the compressor to cut out. I opened the drivers door to stop it settling but this morning it is down 100mm on each corner.

There are no faults showing and it took a couple of minutes to settle at standard height and the compressor ran for 5 minutes.

Is this within acceptable limits?

Thanks as always.

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If it's dropping that much and equally on every corner, it must still be self levelling even though it shouldn't with a door open. Try pulling fuse 44 or the timer relay which will kill the power to the ECU. I would think there's a leak on one corner still so it is dropping the other 3 to the same height. You can use the Nano to check the inputs to the EAS and it should show if the system is inhibited if a door is open but maybe yours doesn't have this feature being a pre-production model?

If the front right still has a leak, my money would be on the very thin O ring around the solenoid base. At least the solenoid for that corner is one of the top ones so you can lift the solenoid coil off and spray the actual valve with your water and fairy liquid mix and look for bubbles.

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Thanks Richard. I did check the O ring on the solenoid base and it looked OK. I'll try the bubble test and pulling the fuse and check with the Nano.

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Checking after one hour from fully charged on standard height setting the drops are:-

right front 30mm right rear 25mm left front 40mm and left rear 45mm

They can't all be leaking can they? I cant hear any air escaping and the air bags look in good condition.

Still to check the solenoid bases again.

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With all the O rings checked and checked again. They are all Viton and a new diaphragm valve installed it is still dropping on all corners. Door open and fuse 44 removed.

I can't feel any air coming out of the exhaust silencer port.

After 2 hours it is dropping:-

FR 20mm RR 25mm FL 45mm RL 50mm

I'm out of ideas.

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What was the condition of your NRV’s? I needed to rob 2 parts valve blocks to get 3 good working NRV’s. I think Beowulf found a source of new ones.

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NRV's all fine with new mini O rings. They bobbed up and down in their housings and I checked and rechecked I had them in the right order.

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I've replaced the whole valve block with a secondhand one from Paul and things have improved.
It holds pressure for longer - not perfect - but no warning messages and over night it takes about three minutes for the access light to go out and normal height light to stay on.

Is three minutes reasonable?

Thanks as always.

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No. It shouldn't drop at all if everything is perfect, so when you get in it in the morning you should still have the normal height light showing to tell it is still were you left it. If it has dropped, then it should come up immediately, within 10 seconds or so. 3 minutes suggests you are losing pressure in the reservoir and it is having to refill that before the pressure is sufficient to lift the car.

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OK, thanks Richard.

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Finally I concluded that yes they can all leak. In spite of cutting back each connection to fresh tube it still dropped.

Replaced all the air lines with new Tricoflex and it it looks fine - so far.

Get's up to pressure in good time and holds to levels overnight.

Moral is don't buy used air line sets thinking it will be easier to fit.