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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Has anyone removed a p38 body or seen instructions on how to do so? Can’t find it in RAVE and not found much helpful on google…

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I have never even heard of anyone doing it to a p38. I have only ever seen the body taken off a classic when it was bolted into a rotisserie jig for welding in new panels.

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Didn't DavidAll remove his? He removed everything else.....

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I know of who has done it, he said fairly complex job but made up of many simple tasks. I can inquire more if needed ...

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I did undo all the body to chassis nuts to clean everything and I used the engine crane to lift the back of the body via the two threaded holes in the boot just to give better access to replace the rear brake lines. It lifted quite easily. I did think of lifting the whole thing but I think a two post lift would be ideal as the four post would just get in the way. I have seen scary pictures of fork lifts being used.

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Did it last week. Straight forward, if You have a two post lift.
Ten screws, brakelines, steering shaft, some wiring … nothing serious. Never seen an old Land Rover, where a body / Chassis swap is that easy. I have another breaker, where I‘ll repeat that in the next months.
The P38 is clearly made for the „marriage“ at the assembly line, the moment body and chassis meet in the factory.
Removal of engine / gearboxes was never that easy.
Was especially interesting for me, as it was a Thor / Motronic, mine is a GEMS. Quite a few differences in details.
Learning experience for an amateur. But I was allowed to use his workshop and massive supported by an outstanding Defender professional. He is the builder of that white „Sally“ Range Rover Classic on a Disco2 Chassis.
Full restoration although might be another topic, because the massive wiring loom(s). Doors are surprisingly nearly as easy as a series door ;-)
And hey, they do rust! 😉