I'm doubting my memory now. Not so sure they were in blue bags. I know rimmer have a system of distinguishing part makes into oe, oem and britpart. Its why some parts have p at the end.
I think all of the suppliers do it, they'll have the LR part number with an extra letter on the end signifying which supplier. That is my one complaint with Rimmers, they will offer genuine or aftermarket with no mention of who made the aftermarket. LRDirect and island will tell you if it is Geuine, OE, Bearmach, Allmakes, Britpart, etc so you stand a good chance of knowing what you will get.
I've hopefully dodged a bullet.
Got new hose fitted, oil filter changed and new oil filled.
Started first time and oil pressure light went out quite fast.
Sounds OK.
Got another hose ordered for the upper one.
Time will tell.
Gilbertd wrote:
I think all of the suppliers do it, they'll have the LR part number with an extra letter on the end signifying which supplier. That is my one complaint with Rimmers, they will offer genuine or aftermarket with no mention of who made the aftermarket. LRDirect and island will tell you if it is Geuine, OE, Bearmach, Allmakes, Britpart, etc so you stand a good chance of knowing what you will get.
If I recall correctly, p1 is britpart otherwise it'll be oem.
Spoke too soon. Took it out for a test drive today. Did about 4 miles and started getting knocking and squeaking from engine.
I suspect the bottom ends or big ends have been trashed.
Knocking I can understand but not squeaking. Are you sure it is from the engine and not from something else in there that has objected to being sprayed with oil?
Serpentine auxiliary drive belt is the first place to look when you have a squeak. Unlike old style Vee belts serpentine, multi Vee, types don't wedge deeper into the pulley under load for more grip so it takes very little contamination to make them slip prone.
A teeny front oil seal leak put mine into mouse mode. The leak was no worry but the squeaking on cold start was a pain.
Clive
Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.
😞
Dear All,
Almost a snap! Parked her up after a manure run up the M3 and found oil dripping, looked underneath and the out side of battery box, washer bottle, oil filter etc all covered in oil. Found a leaking joint where that pipe screws onto the cooler, so should be easy to fix but luckily my cramped ends are the correct ones. Oil light never came on and dip stick level was 1/4 inch below the lower level so should all be fine. Lucky it wasn't a longer journey.
tanis8472 wrote:
Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.😞
As you haven't run it for any distance, you should be able to get away with just a new set of big end shells. Can all be done with the engine in the car, heads off, drop the sump and away you go.
Heads off?
Good point, I was thinking about pulling the pistons out but to just change the shells, it's sump off only.
When i spun a bearing in my track car the conrods were totalled. They'd got so hot they had turned blue. Crankshaft was destroyed too. It wasnt even making a knocking noise. Feels like you'd have to be super lucky to get away with just installing new shells :(
It's going to the great yard in the sky. Can't justify spending any more on her.
Probably be lucky to get 2 years more out of her if it was still running.
Chassis is corroded at the rear where the bumper attaches along with some bearing whine from the rear diff.
😔
Probably won't be getting another rr either.
Still staying with lr though.
Sorry to hear that. Good luck in your search for another LR.
Forgot yours is a diesel where the higher compression puts much more strain on the big ends. With a petrol you would probably have got away with it.
I don't want to hijack this thread, seems the concussions have already been made?
On another forum, different make/model vehicle (sorry!).. a guy I know seemingly has a big end knock but this came to be at around about the same time as an overheat situation. So a leading question is, did the big end problem cause the overheat or did the overheat cause the big end problem. Thoughts on this? As some as you will probably expect from knowing me, this is a Nissan VQ35 engine. It isn't as though the big ends are effected by anything much besides oil eh?
Edit - (heh!) and while I'm at it... I've got 2 same model vehicles (Nissan Elgrands) with the same engine. I've already had to swap the engine in one of them (long story but I wrote about it in detail on this forum a few years ago). The same one I did the engine swap in started occasionally overheating, it was loosing coolant and the rad seemed to have a slight leak at the bottom so I changed the rad and thought 'job done' but the same overheating and coolant loss has occurred since... I drove 350 miles towing my caravan last year but had to stop every 50 miles to let it cool down enough to add fresh water. I've not used it much since, when I have it's been fine except for hard top hose. I did a sniff test which as expected proved positive. I now (when I get time) intend on pulling the inlet manifold to make access to plug hole areas easy then pressure (drop) test the cooling system and check to see if I can find which cylinder(s) have a tract to the cooling system. Maybe then if the problem is just on one head I might change the HG on only the problem head.
overheating will thin the oil out, which may in turn cause a loss of oil pressure if the pump cannot pump enough displacement to keep up with the thin oil. Thats ofcourse very engine specific, some engines have loads of oil pump headroom, and others have none.
I had a high mileage 1.8T in my first A4 where the oil pump was pretty worn out, and had an oil pressure guage fitted. Under normal driving it was fine, but if stuck in traffic with the coolant temp up nearer 100c than 90c, instead of the normal 15psi or so at idle it would drop down into the 7-8psi range, and the lifters would start depressurising and ticking. Lifting the engine RPM would get the pressure back up, but would also mean the engine ran hotter, creating a bit of a feedback loop. Was always a bit nervewracking stuck in traffic with that engine.
I've also heard of engines seizing due to overheating, presumably due to thermal expansion closing up running clearances.
Thanks for the response Aragorn, just read it, I've been away (Brighton) for a couple of days.
Tend to find most engines have a bit less oil pressure at idle rpm than just above idle rpm anyway?
Also engines that use an electric fan usually have more of a temperature rise/fluctuation sat idling than those with a thermoviscous fan?
Can see why yours could have the feedback loop.
On said forum people are now talking little end knock. Personally I'm not convinced it's even bottom end related, could still be top end. On other forums for vehicles with a very similar engine (VQ35 but in a different state of tune) they talk of valve clearance issues and valve train noise, I reckon there's a chance it could still be something like that.
Thanks, Simon
Well it wasn't Brit part. Sorry Britpart.
They were branded Eurospare.