The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Posts: 37

i'm getting ready to replace the shocks on my 2000 P38.

is this as straight forward as it seems? just follow the Rave and done?

i've replaced the shocks on my Discoverys, so familiar with the procedure. but i just want to make sure there are no surprises the P38 will throw at me.

Posts: 699

I fitted TerraFirma shocks (+2") and had a few problems.
The top eye chassis mount "pinches in" and grips the top eye of the shock. There was a loud clunking sound until I used a torque wrench and set it to the settings in Rave.
A problem with washers and rubber bushes at the bottom. I had to swap them around I remember to get them to fit.

Posts: 573

Have fitted standard (allegedly) Boge and Bilstien with no issues. Just follow Rave and make sure you have enough space for the axles to drop a bit to give wiggle room. Not forgetting the jack underneath to ease the axle back up to fit the second end of the shock. Simultaneously detaching both shocks on an axle is probably not a good idea.

Anoint the threads with your favourite release agent a couple of times during the week before you do the job. I just put the air suspension on high for a bit more wiggle room underneath. Makes squirting release stuff up the tapped hole for the top rear bolt much easier.

Best to get new bolts.

Rear shock top bolts come in both Torx and hex heads. Hard to see in there but its important to know what you have because if the socket slips off its likely to crunch down on the air line.

Much easier with a rattle gun. My 18V Makita just gave half a rattle and spun the back ones out. So quick and easy that I thought the socket had bounced off.

Unless you fancy taking tiny bites between axle and body, its a long way through for a breaker bar and extensions so its easy to get off line when heaving. This is the sort of place where my short 3/4 extension with a scaffold pole welded to the middle making big T shaped super breaker scores as it can be supported with a jack on the end opposite the square drive. So you can heave and be reasonably sure all will stay in line. Top bolts aren't that tight so a spotter to make sure you don't get off line should be good enough. Naturally 99.99 % of the time just diving in and doing it will be just fine. But I've never like being the 0.01% man.

First time through I pulled the wheel off and took the wheel arch liner out for best visibility. Left all in place at the rear second time round. Folk say the front can be done with the liner and wheel in place. Tried that second time round. After doing the nearside with all in situ I reckoned pulling the wheel and arch liner was easier and no slower.

I imagine that its all easier with a lift rather than working on the floor with jacks.


Posts: 33

I found the fronts a doddle. Top bolts access from the engine bay. Liners on the front, if you still have mudflaps are/can be a pig to get off, rear liners are easy. Top bolts on the fronts usually are corrosion free too unlike the rears. I use a cutting disc in a grinder to remove the bottom damper nuts.