I wouldn't worry about a bit of oil lying in the inlet manifold, mine always seems to have a bit in there and it doesn't appear to be pressurising the crank case. It's a leaky rattly old 1960s lump, cut it some slack :-)
Think your jumping the gun with rings and shells, it's most probably from the breather pipe, when it's together and your using, if it's not using oil then that will confirm it's only the breather, make sure the cpv is still in the rockers, also check there clear. Get it back together and enjoy it for the mo
Rings and shells were only if I did actually pull it completely apart, but for now it's getting a days soak of 20cc naptha per pot (Redex injector cleaner) as I get everything clean to put top end back together.
The oil separator was in 3 bits so have put a new one in. Just the bananas left to scrub now.
Parts washer's getting intensive use this weekend!
Now if only I had a bead blaster to finish off those alloy parts...
Ah well, all ready to bolt back together tomorrow
That's one of the reasons I painted mine... because the somewhat rough alloy finish on the upper manifold is a pain to clean fully as it's so bloody porous on the outside.
Hopefully the coats of paint mine received will help make washing workshop mud off it a bit easier!
On the subject of paint Marty (hijacking my own thread slightly), what colour/ code is your RR?
We were talking a while ago about fixing a rust spot on your roof and I said it would be difficult to do a spot repair due to the metallic finish.
My new RR is black (Java- 697), but that's not micatallic so maybe yours isn't either.
If that's the case, a spot repair is easily doable.
I could easily blow it in for you at Winter Camp.
OK, I'm now having a Victor Meldrew moment.
I DON'T BELIEVE IT
Nice new set of BPR6ES plugs going in. I know the PFR6N-11s are recommended and are what it had in it, but I'm quite happy to change the 6ES ones more frequently at half the price.
Get to #7, screws in nicely with fingers, as did the others. Go to put a socket on it to torque it and socket wont fit into recess in head.
Scratch head, put a dob of engineers blue on washer to make sure it's parallel to seat and hasn't been helicoiled crooked or something. Good contact all the way around seat.
I must have a weird casting, or something stupid. Not about to take a Dremel to head casting so have now had to lash out £50 on a set of PFR6N-11's.
In the meantime I've got the best of the old 6N-11's in #7.
Anyone want to buy a set of virtually unused 6ES's ?!
Mine only takes the smaller ones, same thing,, maybe it's a Thor thing ? gonna have a look at my spare heads and will report back..
Well damn me, I always thought the heads were the same for all versions right back to when they went from 14 bolt to 10 bolt. However, checking the part numbers it changed from the end of the WA series. So Thor heads have a different part number to GEMS heads and you've just found out the difference.
I wonder what else is different? I can't believe that they changed the machining of the casting just to stop people using the older type plugs.
I must have GEMS heads then... because I stuck BPRs in... no idea what came out, they didn't look pointy.
How weird.
Strange one on the heads....
I use NGK BPR6ES on mine, and they have the smaller socket head... Though my heads had the larger socket plugs fitted before and no problems... and I highly doubt my heads have ever been swapped before.... strange..
Regarding Paint.... yes, mine is Java Black aswell - same 697 Paint code.. if you don't mind having a look at it, then would be much obliged!
No probs, I've got lots of spot repairs to do on my paint so should be well practised by then!
Martyuk wrote:
Regarding Paint.... yes, mine is Java Black aswell - same 697 Paint code.. if you don't mind having a look at it, then would be much obliged!
For my Classic I had to buy the Champion RC11PYPB4, 16 mm socket too. Can't remember if the 20.6 mm plugs would have fitted though.
Idly wondering what Designmeister would choose to attach the cruise control throttle cable mech to the EAS airbox with 2 dinky self tap screws into plastic?
Hardly Land Rover robustness...
You ever known one fall off? Seems pretty robust to me. Anyway, they knew the hoses would split and it would stop working within a couple of years so it didn't matter.
Apart from mine? No :)
There had to be a reason I couldn't get the ECU cover off, and the pulled out screw in the cruise mech fixing that allowed the whole thing to pivot was the reason.
The hoses were, of course, split as well :)
Conscious that I've gone quiet on the refresh of the SE A. Had a bit of a black festive season for various reasons and have only just mustered up enough enthusiasm to walk back up to the workshop.
Having just this moment taken delivery of a large box containing all the original electronics- BECM, ECU, key fobs, door and ignition switches I'm feeling a bit more fired up and now getting stuck back in!
More grumbles to follow as I progress!
Good news on the box of bits! Fobs are original to car (both fit glove box lock). Fobs are a bit used- one has lost the rubber button pad, but both at least light up when buttons pressed! Complete ignition lock assy. meaning that, after a good clean to get the gate switch working properly its a straight unplug/ plug in job. Engine ECU is original to car (matching VIN). Hard to read BECM info sticker (pic below) but can't see a VIN number anywhere on it BUT a bill from CallRova for BECM refurb. Intact complete door handle with no sticking problems. I'm a happy bunny at the moment, or at least I was until I found that all of the work lights in the workshop have blown due to nesting birds, some of whom did not survive the experience!
First job tomorrow- replace the worklights so I can see what I'm doing.
Moan of the day!
What sort of multiple expletive deleted would stick the IACV inlet stub onto the inlet tube with Bostik and expect it to:
1- stay on
2- be airtight
Still, now have 2 kilowatts of worklights operating again so can top up my tan while working!