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Tis the season for ABS faults apparently. I have the same fault on my WABCO D type.

I measured my sensor resistances and they are pretty much the same as yours - around 0.95kOhms.

I think the Nanocom/ECU only displays the faults after they've occurred a few times. I cleared the fault with the Nanocom then cycled the ignition. Even though the dash was saying "ABS Fault" and "Traction Fault" no faults were reported by the Nanocom. After a couple of ignition cycles the fault reappeared on the Nanocom.

My next step was going to be getting another ECU. I know Marty repairs them but they are showing as out of stock so I need to contact him to see what the timescales would be like.

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Marty is out of the country as far as I know, so they won't be in stock until he is back. No idea when that will be though.

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This is an FYI for anyone replacing hubs.....
I have discovered a problem with the RT Front sensor.....sort of....
Whilst swapping in the known good sensor from the Borrego, I noticed the sensor was not fully inserted and up against the reluctor ring.
The new OEM replacement hub has the hole for the sensor about 1/64th of an inch offset!!!!!! cannot set the sensor fully in.
This was not noticed when I did the replacement a couple of weeks ago, but obviously that would be a problem.
I am sure that the old hub allowed full insertion.
Guess it's wheel, brake and hub off and machine the hole a bit. Damn! I paid for OEM (Atlantic British)
because I try to avoid pattern parts
This is, of course, not the underlying issue as it fails on power up self test before any movement.....Just another issue.....

Jacckk: I have also been able to finally get error codes on Nano, but only after 6 faults are logged in ECU
In my case, swapping in another ECU had no effect. Good Luck, and please report if you have success!

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I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......

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Seem to remember seeing the same issue on the wheel bearing on the Disco, and the bit in question could be rotated there as Richard says above. AFAIK its the same bearing/hub on both vehicles as well. This was an ECP own brand one in this case as its what I could get at the time (Q-Drive I think).

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Gilbertd wrote:

I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......

I just went out and had a look at the old hub assemblies.......
It is true that the tube is not part of the casting, however, it is thoroughly pressed onto the casting.
How would you shift it?
Loosen the bolts and use a chain wrench?
I am going to go with mis manufactured rather than mis installed on this one.
Without a machine shop and specialized tools, that tube is not going to rotate ????.........Is it?
Like to try that one in the field?
Thanks for the continued help as always!

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On the one I fitted it was pressed in but wasn't a tight fit so could be rotated by hand. It was a Britpart though.....

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It was a while ago when mine was fitted. Either it moved, or it got drilled out. I'm fairly sure it moved though.

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I seem to be out voted......I shall try to rotate it, and let you know. Makes sense, but the old ones do not even think of moving.
If not, I will drill.....

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Your one may be better made than Britpart or ECP own brand though remember. New one would also be rust free and clean, old one a different story!

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When I did the ball joints on mine, after having to drill out the old sensors (even though they were working), I converted the sensor holes in the hubs to slots. That way I can remove the hub next time without disturbing the sensors.

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Pete12345 wrote:

When I did the ball joints on mine, after having to drill out the old sensors (even though they were working), I converted the sensor holes in the hubs to slots. That way I can remove the hub next time without disturbing the sensors.

I did the same.

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Well, I finally got a break in the weather here and pulled the RT front hub to enlarge the hole for the ABS sensor....
Once I had it off, I did try to rotate the sleeve using a large vise and a chain wrench. No dice. It is swaged on solidly.
With a sharp Uni Bit, it was a few seconds work to enlarge the hole to get alignment.
Put it all back, and low and behold! It works as good as new!
Lesson learned: If the sensor is not close enough to the reluctor, it will fail the initial static test. Even before engine is started.
It is still a total mystery to me why the Nano only one time threw an error code for the RH front sensor. The rest of the
50 or so times I looked, it said No Faults even though both the ABS and TC lights were on.
As an aside, I found my small coolant leak finally......I was thinking head gaskets, but it was the throttle body heater plate ooozing coolant. Part on order.

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I'm not sure if the genuine bits for that are any better, but I've gone through a couple of those, they only seem to last a couple of years before they start weeping again.

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I put a n upgraded one on my D2 some time ago. It’s made of thicker material. I’ll try to find out where I got it from.

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Thanks!
I see pattern pats cheap, but OEM is only about 35 bucks.....Probably one of those that's not worth the risk?

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Bolt wrote:

Thanks!
I see pattern pats cheap, but OEM is only about 35 bucks.....Probably one of those that's not worth the risk?

Theres not really much to it, it seems to be the gasket that fails rather than the plate, but the plate usually gets in such a mess that its easier to bin it and start again with a new one is the thinking?

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The throttle body heater units need to be assembled with non hardening/flexible (elastic) gasket jointing compound - I use Loctite MR5922. The plates are thin so the constant heat/cooling results in too much movement/warping and they eventually leak without something more ‘pliable’ than a dry gasket. Thin coat on both faces and job’s a good un.

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Makes sense.
I notice several sellers with thick silicone gaskets on offer.

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https://www.sportscarcentre.ca/MGM000010K

This is it. Sports Car Centre, Edmonton. Not cheap for what it is but it’s better quality than the original. It’s too early for me to say that it will last longer but I think it’s been 2 years since I installed it with no issues.