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Yes, it's supposed to be on the Driver's Side catch - it's a small microswitch operated via that catch mechanism.... Perhaps it was broken and someone changed it for the type on the other side (without switch) and 'fudged' it ? There is (normally...) a two-wire waterproof-type connector located about 4 inches below that switch.... ( Don't think it is the cause of your drain though but you never know... )

https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/p38/p38a910.png

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Switch is on the back of the RH bonnet catch but not on the slam panel, n the metalwork either side of the slam panel. Switch can work loose so it permanently shows the bonnet open but when open it is short circuit. If it is unplugged and the plug left dangling, it will never tell you the bonnet is open. You can't swap them side to side as the catches are handed. If the microswitch is removed from the latch but left connected, you will get a warning that the bonnet is open even when it isn't.

EAS will work if the bonnet is open or not, it is only the doors and tailgate that inhibit it.

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That’s why I’ve never noticed it then. When it stops raining I’ll go and have a look for it and its associated wiring/connector.

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Just been out to have a look - not easy to see without removing the front grill/slam panel but with mirror and torch I have located the switch which seems to be intact but the connector below it appears to have been dislodged from its mounting and possibly pulled apart slightly by interference with the bonnet release cable going to the left hand bonnet catch. Has probably been like this for the 18 years I've had the vehicle (or perhaps I dislodged it during one of my removal/refitments of the slam panel)?

Another little rectification job to add to the list!

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Richard: Surely the catches are only 'handed' by virtue of the microswitch ? Thought the micro was N/C if bonnet closed ? That's why I suggested it was 'fudged' (eg wiring shorted). Good point about the EAS/Bonnet though....

Garvin: If unaware you can inhibit the EAS - ie. to isolate it as a culprit from the drain problem - by just pulling its 'timer' relay out (under the passenger seat - but after 18 years you probably already know that ! )

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davew wrote:

Richard: Surely the catches are only 'handed' by virtue of the microswitch ? Thought the micro was N/C if bonnet closed ?

They both have the cable entering from the RH side but the fixings are offset. So if you fitted one on the wrong side the cable would need to come in from the other side. No, switch is definitely closed when the bonnet is open. Mine died a few years ago and I assumed, like you, that I would need to put a short in the plug to turn the warning off. Did that and it stayed on all the time. Open is closed.

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IIRC the bonnet switch is on the RH bonnet latch.

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Richard: Yet other than the switch they look identical: ( Sorry, e-bay items #s 233208835164 and/or 333662784256 ) ?

Only JLR could have a 'safety' switch that 'works' if/when disconnected.......!
Or maybe they just expected to sell more replacement bonnets like that ?

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Other cars I've had have been the same - The Mondeo I had the bonnet switch went faulty so it would start setting the alarm off when it was getting cold, or going through a carwash. Disconnected switch and it was fine like that, bonnet registered as closed. Its also there so that if the bonnet is opened that the alarm can be triggered not just to warn you that its not shut properly.

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I had the grill and slam panel off this afternoon and access to that damned bonnet switch and its connector is still extremely limited. However I could tell that the connector halves are securely mated but the connector is broken off its plastic locating clip. Switch must be open circuit (or wiring broken - but I doubt that) and I’ll leave well alone as it has been no bother so far.

Having had these bits of bodywork off I can report that the foam rubber ‘shoulder’ I glued to the infamous top corner of the air con condenser the last time it was replaced is continuing to do sterling work in preventing any abrasion and rubbing through of the condenser at this point.

Battery still holding up well!

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Yes it is fiddly - mainly because the battery tray is in the way.... and I recall I took the headlight out too (but left the slam panel in place) when replacing mine: In fact when I noted that folks were only selling the catches in pairs for ~£40 I bought some microswitches instead (If I can find them I will send you one). Still rather 'bad practice' that the bonnet alarm can just be disabled by disconnecting it....

Judging by the numbers of bits of anti-friction rubber pipe etc I use here and there I am also a great believer in *preventative maintenance" too ( and I am usually muttering "did they not think that would be a problem after a few years ?" then assuming they don't care - of course)...

Good luck with the drain problem; These cars are haunted like that of course and just need exorcising at times.....

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Ah, I see now that the switch is integrated with the latch. Just need to unbolt the latch, pull it clear and sort out the switch (he says confidently . . . ). Do you have a part no for a suitable microswitch?

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Yes, it's a DC3C-Q5AA (ZF-electronics) - Had a 'forage' for them but may have to dig deeper (.....it was years ago)

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DC3C-Q5AA doesn't seem to exist now! However, there are a couple of other switches in the same Cherry/ZF range that will do the job but are out of stock everywhere - are there that many P38 bonnet latches going duff!!!

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It's been discontinued but it is only an IP67 rated, SPDT microswitch so as long as you get one the correct size, any old switch will do the job. RS and CPC have plenty to choose from.

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Richard: That's what I thought, but it turns out those choices were actually very limited, particularly the sealed/flying lead variant/s (and frankly I don't know how if they are IP67 'sealed' they so often fail S/C either ..)

Garvin: Yes, I wonder what else they are used on ? I'll get digging, but it won't be until next week, and it's not so urgent (?)

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I have a same physical size, flying lead switch on order which is on back order and will not be delivered until April! It’s a higher rated switch that’ll do the job, if I wanted the same lower rated switch as the OEM one then it wouldn’t arrive until October!

Good job I’m not in a rush.

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Good, saves me mining then.... ! I wondered if the lower rating (0.1A) on the OEM item was part of the (failure) problem What's the part no/code for others, and price ? ( Either way it has to be better than paying £40 for a pair of catches and the switch may fail on that too ! )

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DC1C-C4AA which is 6A rating and is a change over switch so will have an extra (useless) lead (DC3C is the 100mA rated switch). The C4 bit is for the leads exiting the housing on the opposite side to the actuator button (plenty of C3 switches available but the leads exit the housing the same side as the actuator button) and the AA denotes flying leads rather than solder contacts.

Prices vary but, with delivery, a switch from RS is £15.94

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Found them....! So if anyone wants one just send an address... 6 going free (but UK only)...

  • but you all know how this works by now: if you are sensible enough to procure a spare/contingency item you then probably never need it, which is probably why I obtained 10 of them 10 years ago and never needed one ......

Garvin: Yes - the flying lead will foul on the spring if it is on the wrong side.... but £16 ? Good Grief (expletive deleted) !