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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I stand by my comment that the immobiliser can't be disabled, it can be bypassed so the engine ECU doesn't need to see the correct code from the BeCM, but it is still there and still enabled. It just doesn't affect the starting and running of the car. Too many people think that when they go into the BeCM with their Nanocom and see the entry marked Immobiliser and change it from Enabled to Disabled, that is it, they have switched it off when all they have actually done is turned off Passive Immobilisation. The same goes for the EKA setting. Changing that from Enabled to Disabled doesn't mean you won't need to use the EKA, it means it won't ask for it when it is needed.

I wouldn't go as far as saying I don't approve of it, I just don't see the need for it. If the car is immobilised, you just put the EKA in (either with the Nano or with the key), that is all that is needed until you find one of the microswitches in the latch has failed but there are ways around that anyway. Mark Adams at Tornado Systems has done a stand alone GEMS ECU for years, primarily so owners of Morgans, TVRs and specials without a BeCM can remove the old 3.9 Classic engine with 14CUX injection but a conventional distributor, and fit the later GEMS engines into them.

No, there is no transponder in the key, just the remote transmitter, so other than needing the EKA initially, a cut key blade will work fine.

Harv must have had some sort of mod done as you can enter the EKA with the Nanocom and then lock and unlock with the key without needing the EKA but that is cancelled as soon as it is locked with the remote so the EKA should be needed again.

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Thanks for the explanation, and what does the "passive immobiliser" do ? (the one which can be deactivated vie the Nanocom ?

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If you unlock the car but don't start the engine within a set time (either 30 or 60 seconds, I can't remember which), the immobiliser kicks in again. If the coil around your ignition switch is still working, it causes the remote to transmit the unlock code when you put the key in the ignition. You will see that as the LED on the fob will flash when you put the key in the ignition. If the coil fails, which they often do, and you unlock the car but don't start it within the set time, the dash will tell you the engine is immobilised and ask for the EKA or a press of the unlock button on the remote. The coil had failed on mine when I first got it and I got into the habit of pressing Unlock before trying to start the car. As soon as I got the Nanocom, that was one of the first things I turned off so it doesn't matter how long I leave the car before starting it, I no longer have to press Unlock. The immobiliser is turned off when I unlock the car and stays off. Also under the alarm settings, there is one marked 1 touch and you can then set the windows for one touch on just the drivers window, both front or all, I always set to all.

Another one that I always change is the setting marked Wiper Speed under Options. Setting that to Enabled means that if you have the wipers on continuous and stop at a set of lights, they drop down to intermittent until you exceed 2mph when they go back to continuous.

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I say disabled, or bypassed.....even eliminated since the BECM no longer has a say as to start or no start.
Can we go with "functionally" Disabled?
If the BECM gets annoyed, and you are a dab hand with the EKA, or quick with the Nano, No worries! (That's me)
If however, you are an "family member" who loves the Rangie and is happy to drive it as long as it starts and goes
without any "Faffing about" (The Missus) then being sure it starts no matter what is invaluable!

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Í have a spare standalone GEMS EMS ECU, can anyone tell me what connectors have to be changed at the BECM to make it start and run anyway?
I understand that one can jump the relais (iIrc two starter and Idk) in the fuse box … but would prefer to go around the the hassle

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Looking at the diagram, I would say all you would need to do is put a jumper between pin 6 of C257 and pin 2 of C113, both White/Red wires. That will connect position 3 of the ignition switch directly to the starter relay rather than via the BeCM.

I'd love to know what your Missus does to the car Bolt, even mine, who can usually break most things, hasn't been able to break mine or the Ascot when she's been using that. Are there any other signs that it is (should be) immobilised? I assume the message still pops up on the dash, does it time out and go away or does it stay there?

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That is the correct wiring bypass for the starter at the Becm. Both Yellow plugs, one on the front, one under the fuses on the RT side.......

She does not do anything to the vehicle, however she has been immobilised 2 times on a previously owned 1999.
Once, it superlocked on her in a torrential downpour! Not pleased.........
I do not need to be told that the Rangie would be heading down the road to a new owner if it happens again.
She also reads the forums over my shoulder and groans in sympathy when we get a
"HELP, stuck in the middle of nowhere and immobilised!!" Post.....
So, as her HSK has no fob, and out of an abundance of caution, I have installed Simon's board, clipped the superlock motor wires,
and take scrupulously good care of her Air suspension. She is happy, I am happy, Dog is happy!!

As to the signs it is immobilised?
That's the strange thing. It starts and runs without announcing that it is immobilised. No messages on binnacle.
The alarm light on the dash does flash, and if I had the sounder plugged in, it might be making noise?
Otherwise, everything works as it should.
I test them every so often by locking with fob, unlocking with key and annoying the BECM (HSK just gets switched to bypass as no fob)
Also, I have installed the board with an ultra reliable toggle switch and the vehicle operates in normal BECM controlled mode at all times.
IF there is a problem, you pop the bonnet, flip the non obvious switch, and start it up! Drive home and figure it out there, not in some
secluded spot in the rain, at night with Bears and wolves in the bushes!!

I am going to get an extra ECU, modify it, and have it handy to help out someone who is alarmed, and immobilised beyond the Nano's abilities.
Cheap addition to the tool box, and a good resale value!

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THX guys, GR8 as always.
Jumper means connecting cable to both of them like and leave them connected to the BECM or cutting them and joining them?
Another slightly off topic question … Bolt, what is a P38 HSK? Never heard that before …

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Just connect a wire between the two, you can leave the existing wiring connected.

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Ok, I’m not sure now if my immobilizer was as I said. I tried it again today (I locked it with the fob last night and unlocked it with the key just now). This time the engine was immobilized. So I’d say I was wrong in my previous post.

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That makes more sense, yours is the same as all the others. You can lock with the key and unlock with the fob with no problems just not the other way round.

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Gilbertd wrote:

Just connect a wire between the two, you can leave the existing wiring connected.

So I could just jumper the two wires together and still leave them connected to the BECM? I’ve had these two wires marked with a piece of tape for a couple of years, in case I would ever need to bypass the BECM to start mine. I would have expected to cut both wires to the BECM, and then jumper the two together. If the BECM won’t mind, I don’t really see a downside to jumping the 2 wires (I seriously doubt that anyone will want to steal my 26 year old car).

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Yes you can. When you turn the ignition switch to position 3, it provides a ground to the BeCM. If the BeCM has received a valid unlock code, it allows that ground through to the starter relay. By linking the two pins it allows the ground to go directly, bypassing the BeCM, but it won't make any difference if the original wiring is left attached or not.

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Ok great. Thanks.