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Under Parking brake - Adjustment

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So if you have to book 3 to 4 months in advance, does that mean you have to do that 3 to 4 months before your certificate runs out? Blimey, I can usually get an MoT appointment the next day, or, if I call early enough, the same day. Price is about the same as in the UK though although a retest is usually free if you take it back within 10 working days as they only check whatever it is that it failed on previously. I took one car (not a P38) in a couple of weeks ago that failed on a pair of suspension bushes. Replaced the bushes and the tester didn't even bother putting it on the ramp, he just looked underneath, saw shiny new bushes and went into the office to issue the Pass certificate.

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Richard, the problem with testing in parts of Ireland are exactly as you say. it's a stupid, stupid network that only allows the franchised operator to decide how many centres to open, it would appear to regardless of how many people want a test.

The way it is supposed to work is that you get a test on the anniversary of the first registration of the vehicle. You don't need a test for the first four years, then it is every two years until the vehicle is 10 years old, and after that, annually.

The problem now is that there are far more people living around the local [to me] test centre than probably was envisaged but nothing has been done to increase capacity. That's one of the problems with handing the system to a foreign company, trying to make them invest to provide an efficient service. Obviously, the question then is - why not remove the franchise ? I believe the answer is because there are too many vested interests in Irish politics and industry. So it's a case of "you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours" and being offered jobs at management/board level when the politicians have to leave office.

If, for example, my vehicle is due a test on the anniversary of its' first registration, let's say June 1st, then I need to be trying to book that test at the earliest allowed date of the beginning of February to get a test date near when the current test date expires. If I leave it until a month before expiry then I won't get a date until at least three months later. In theory you could keep doing this until eventually you completely miss a year, as your dates are continually running three or four months behind.

One of the issues, so I have been led to believe and I can't verify this, is that young fella's with their souped-up VW Golfs, Subaru's, etc. etc. book a test way in advance, to allow them to drive their cars, and then two weeks before the test is due they re-schedule a new test a further three months down the road, and so on until the police catch up with them. And the reason they are doing it is because their boy-racers won't pass the test due to too dark window tinting, too low suspension, too loud exhaustion, and failing emissions test due to being chipped. Certainly, I know for sure that anyone with a straight through exhaust system fitted will fail on noise issues.

If the above really is true, and I do believe it may be, then that alone would be taking up test slots that a genuine motorist would use. Also the possibility that these young fellows are doing this was shown when I decided, three weeks ago, just for the fun of it, to see if I could reschedule my test from February 23 2024 to a nearer date, and lo-and-behold I was given a date two weeks ahead although at 9:30 at night. Which I took.

You can request to be on a waiting list to be called to a cancellation but in practice I have not found that it works very well. You could get a phone call to say that a cancellation has come up in three hours time, and you then have to get your car ready for te test, i.e. check all fuels and liquids, check lights, check tyre pressures, and empty everything out of the car, including the boot. It's just more hassle than its worth, sometimes.

Anyway, thanks for the schematic on the handbrake lever tightening process.

I looked at the schematic, and this may sound a bit stupid, but is the adjust made to the handbrake cable on the brake drum ?

Pierre3.

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Pierre3 wrote:

I looked at the schematic, and this may sound a bit stupid, but is the adjust made to the handbrake cable on the brake drum ?

No, you adjust the shoes at the drum and the cable on the adjuster nut where it comes through the floor (as shown on the picture, step 7).

Does this mean that you can still use the car with an expired test as long as you have an appointment booked? Here,once the certificate expires you can only legally drive to a pre-booked test or to a place of repair for the test. Mostly you check it over for anything obvious, then take it in for test, see what it fails on then just do the essentials before taking it back for a retest. I've taken cars in fully expecting them to fail on something that I've noticed when checking it and they've passed so that saves me having to do a job unnecessarily.

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Well, this is a good point - I don't think that, legally, you are supposed to drive the vehicle without a current test. Certainly, car insurance here states that, but is it reasonable to expect you not to be able to use a car if you are waiting three months for a test and it's because of the system. But, I suspect that it would depend on circumstances and plods opinion.

If you have a serious accident and your test had expired I have a feeling that you would be in trouble despite having a test booked. I think that, legally, it's the same as the UK, you can only drive to a test centre. But if you get stopped here, say in a random check, and you have the booking on your phone you will almost certainly just be let go with a warning. But if you run somebody over then that could be a completely different kettle of fish.

I'm sorry about this but the schematic doesn't make it very clear. I did look at my own RAVE manual and I am still a bit puzzled by the description. I thought that the handbrake lever is above the gearbox so I can't quite figure out, from the manual, how to get at the underside of the body where the handbrake goes through. Again, sorry that the question is a bit thick but I could do with sorting the whole handbrake thing without taking it to my garage guy.

Pierre3.

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It is above the gearbox but as the gearbox is offset to one side and the handbrake is central, it is easy enough to get to.

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Thanks, Richard. Good to know that.

Incidentally, what are the signs that the accumulator may be on the way out ?

Pierre3.

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Good question - I also wonder!
According to my log, mine was replaced when I got the car, around 46K km ago. I do wonder if is time ...

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Leolito - I had a look about and, oooops, the answer was in the forum all along !!! To wit - "You'll know if the pump's not working as you won't have any power brakes. Accumulator failure is normally signalled by the 3 amigos (ABS/ TC/ Brake lights) flashing at you when pushing the brake pedal".

Ah-ha, the ghostly appearance of the Three Amigos !

Pierre3.

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Pierre3 wrote:

Incidentally, what are the signs that the accumulator may be on the way out ?

ABS pump cutting in too often. It will run to pressurise the accumulator when you first turn the ignition on and then shut off. You should be able to press the brake pedal 3 times before it cuts in again. If it cuts in after every press of the pedal, it is weak. However, just to confuse things, it will also cut in after every pedal if there is air in the brake system. The presence of air means that more fluid is taken from the accumulator to operate the brakes so the pump will cut in more regularly to recharge the accumulator. Unlike a conventional non-pressurised system where air in the braking system gives a spongy pedal, air in a pressure system will result in a delay in the brakes being applied as the fluid under pressure has to compress the air first before it moves the caliper pistons. It will only be a very short delay and probably not even noticeable but you will notice the difference after the brakes are bled if there was any air in there.

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It has to be really bad for you to get the 3 Amigos though.....

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I do think that I need to fit a new accumulator, based on Richards description. I certainly don't have any Amigo's let alone three of them, but as I posted to Richard earlier, when I checked my brake pedal operation the pump starts and runs for about three or four seconds every time that it is pressed. Based on what Richard says above my accumulator is probably looking to go into permanent retirement.

Pierre3.

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Uhm ... I have more of a very "long travel" brake actuation, so I might look into some air in the system first, that it is cheaper also 😀

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I would agree with you, that long travel of the brake pedal would generally indicate softness in the system, so either air or a change of brake fluid. My brake pedal is firm with a short travel, but when the engine is off and with the ignition only on, the pump runs every time the pedal is pressed, which, from what I have read, and from Richards' advice, is almost certainly a dying accumulator.

So hand in pocket time, but, at the same time, as Richard says earlier, there is little point in buying a replacement pump, however cheap it is, because I don't get the Three Amigo's so my pump is almost certainly working fine.

It is still a pain that a replacement accumulator is around £120, but if you buy the original one, Landrover made, from Rimmers it is around £400, I think. Mad money.

Pierre3.

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Pierre3 wrote:

It is still a pain that a replacement accumulator is around £120, but if you buy the original one, Landrover made, from Rimmers it is around £400, I think. Mad money.

and of course Land Rover didn't make it, Wabco did. So the Wabco one at £120 is identical to the Wabco one in a Land Rover box at £400. Bloody expensive cardboard box.....

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Absolutely, but don't forget, Richard, that LR have to attach their special collectors edition label. You know the one, printed with gold leaf !!

Pierre3.