Not mine but a friends 2001.
He has got the dead motor off drivers side rhd and intends to fit the new but second hand one this Saturday, just over 2 days time. What he intends to do is turn the flap by hand to fully cold, connect the motor and send that to fully cold with the hvac temp button and mount it, the drive shaft has a 'D' profile and he will adjust the flap until the motor will engage then test for proper operation. I've never done a blend motor but I'm concerned that this is maybe a too simplistic method?

Best to put the replacement motor in the centre position. This can be done either using a 9V battery on the motor wires, or dismantle & align the marks on the gears inside. The latter is a bit fiddly if you haven't done it before.

Manually align the flap "shaft D" roughly with the motor, and push it part way on. Then rotate the motor a bit, so it fits onto the mounting lugs & insert the screws.

DO NOT run the blend motor, or even turn the ignition on with the blend motor not attached to the heater matrix. The HEVAC will do a test and it will move to the end of the travel which is further than it will move when it is attached so it will immediately bring up an error. Then you will need to open up the blend motor to reset the gears so the arrows line up. Push it onto the shaft and rotate it until the screw holes line up and it will push fully home then.

Roger that.
Cheers guys.

Driver's side temperature blend motor is the lower one of the two on that side and hides behind the heater ducting so that needs to come out (the same way as if you are changing the heater core O rings). I always get into it via the instrument cluster hole once that is out and removing the LH instrument cluster bracket gives more room and stops you cutting your hand on the sharp edges. It is bolted to a couple of studs and you need an 8mm socket to undo those.

Yeah, he's done all that before to get the motor off so he could turn the flap by hand as it went in the middle of winter and was stuck on cold. I talked him through it as I hadn't long done the O rings on mine.
I told him cutting the ducting was the worst part, was for me anyway using a broken hacksaw blade wrapped in tape. He heated a knife on his gas stove and just melted it through! Quick and easy if you're careful.

I've use the hacksaw blade method in the past and it isn't fun but I've now got an oscillating multitool (one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Tools-430787-Multi-Tool/dp/B0784BPP92/ref=sr_1_1) which I bought for one specific job and have found numerous other uses for it since having it. Next time I'm doing it I'll try using that.

Yeah, they do that. When you first turn the ignition on, it cycles all the blend motors from one end of the travel to the other to check the feedback. When it fails to see movement from the feedback pot, it just stops. Sods law says it stops at the full cold end of the travel in winter and full hot in summer.

I'm not 100% but I've had a multi-tool for yrs and I 'think" I couldn't get it in.
Can't honestly remember. Once my mate has done his and I've got it clear in my head I might do mine only because mine sound a bit crunchy when I drive them with the nano.
I'm guess the passenger side one, which actually doesn't sound too bad, involves removing the glove box and possibly the duct cutting? Read a few horror stories about the glove box .

Taking the actual glovebox lid off is interesting as there's a couple of non-captive square nuts on the hinges at the bottom which fall out and are a real pain to get back in. However, if you undo the 3 screws along the top and one each side that are visible with the glovebox open, the whole lot drops down and just hangs on the release cable. Disconnect that and it drops to the floor but when you put it back there's no need to adjust it, it stays adjusted.

That's handy to know, Ta.
Ducting needs cutting to?

Brute force and ignorance and you should be able to pull the duct out in one piece.

We've hit a snag!
The old blend motor(2001) has 4 wires, the replacement s/h one off ebay has only 2 wires , a yellow and a brown, are we stuffed?

OK, we've taken them apart and the 2 wire one has no pot in it. We've tested the dead blend motor with a 9v battery and it's deffo dead so We've unsoldered the good motor off the ebay one and are about to unsolder the original one to swop them over.

2 wire one is a recirculate blend motor. Swapping the motor should get it working. When you put it back together, make sure you align the arrows on the cog on the pot and the main output cog. That will set it at mid point on the travel so you just slot it on and rotate the whole thing until the screw holes line up.

Gilbertd wrote:

2 wire one is a recirculate blend motor. Swapping the motor should get it working. When you put it back together, make sure you align the arrows on the cog on the pot and the main output cog. That will set it at mid point on the travel so you just slot it on and rotate the whole thing until the screw holes line up.

Nice one! All up and running, tested with the nano too. Where's the recirculate blend motor? I thought there was only 3, 2x blend and 1 distribute? Are they on the blower motors? Had a look at the right hand blower and couldn't see anything on that.
One thing I did notice on my friends , that we've been fixing the blend motor on, is that you can hardly hear the motors moving with the nano but mine make crunchy noises but do move as they should. I've got the book symbol up which is a recent thing, nano reports pot fault. His book symbol has been on for 2 yrs but now out.

A Google search has sort of explained where they are, a real pain to change.

As there is no feedback on the recirculate pots, the HEVAC has no idea if they move or not. Hence if they don't work you get no book symbol and don't really have any idea they have failed.