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Hi, I have spent two hours reading through the various threads etc., and RAVE, hoping to find the default EAS height figures, as per the factory. I have come across all sorts of different figures, such as the sizes for cutting the measuring/setting rods, or the height of the wheel arch, measured from either the ground upwards or from the "centre" of the wheel cap. But I can't find a straight forward set of figures as set by LR.

I have a slight issue with the rear drivers side [RHD car] remaining high, as in the highest height, after the car has been left sitting for a week or so. It is possible that it is the drive causing this, but I don't think so. I have just fitted two new rear Dunlop airbags as the originals were looking a bit tatty, but the levels are still acting in the same way as before.

I need to check the figures with Nanocomm, but I would like to know what the default figures are, just in case the programmed figures have been changed for some reason.

I noticed, today, that when I went to a shop, with a very level carpark, that the rear of the car remained sitting at full height for some reason. After pressing the switch, on the dashboard, a few times the car then reacted to the selected heights, but back on the road, for some reason, the car lifted up to full height before dropping back down as the speed went over 30 mph.

Any advice would, as always, be much appreciated.

Pierre3.

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The factory alignment/calibration uses a dowel that sits between the axle and bump stop pad.

The figures in nanocom will vary, which is why there is a mechanical alignment device.

You install the mechanical dowel, lower the car onto it, then tell the ECU that the measured height is now "correct" and it saves the current readings.

Thus if you want to check the calibration, the measurement between the axle and bump stop mount is what you want to measure/compare.

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As Aragom has said, there are no default figures as they will be different from one height sensor to another depending on the exact mounting position and resistance of the track.

But if one side or one corner isn't doing what it should, the most likely cause is a bad connection between the driver pack and the solenoid coils so that one isn't opening when it should. No amount of calibration changes will affect that. the fact that you have to press the rocker a number of times to get it to change would seem to confirm that.

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When you press the switch to drop or raise the car, so you see the flashing target LED ? If not then suspect the footwell connectors.

If the LEDS do flash, then the driver pack to solenoid connection (underneath valve block) is probably bad, or the driver pack capacitors are failing.

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Hi, thanks for all the advice.

Pete - the LED's do flash correctly when the switch is pressed, both up and down. When you refer to the driver pack, and the capacitors, are these [or this] a replaceable single item ?

Richard, Aragorn, I have a set of height adjustment blocks that I bought three years ago, but to be honest I have never had a need to use them - up until now !! I can understand the reasoning for not having a default set of EAS figures but I just thought that there might be something along those lines. The most difficult issue is trying to get the car level as my driveway slopes slightly down, and the two sides towards a drain in the middle.

If I take off the handbrake the car will roll forward fairly easily so it could mean getting a garage to do the levelling adjustment, to make sure that the car is on a level surface. I have been thinking whether I could jack up the front of the car and put concrete blocks under the front wheels, but I suspect that trying to then lift the car to fit the different height blocks will mean hours of work.

Pierre3.

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the slope shouldnt really matter, at least as far as the calibration goes, as you lower the car down onto the blocks. So long as its not sufficiently uneven that it wont sit down on all four blocks.

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If you have a set of height adjustment blocks does a sloping driveway matter? Raise the body/suspension up, insert required height block, lower body/suspension until the body is resting on the adjustment block at each corner and then read the four height sensor readings - the difference twixt axle and body, and the height sensor reading, will be no different if you did it on completely level ground surely!

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Something I did about 2 hours ago was a calibration. Where the car was parked it was very uneven so we moved it to somewhere a bit flatter. As Garvin says, as long as it is flat enough that the car is sitting on all 4 blocks, that is good enough.

The one I was doing it on has had all sorts of weird EAS faults, constant EAS Fault on the dash, rising to off road height or dropping to the bumpstops with no obvious reason. The owner had taken it to an independent specialist who had replaced the height sensors but when moving it from one height to another, the changes in reading weren't constant, both fronts were jumping about. New height sensors were cheap pattern ones, changed them for used originals and everything was as it should. The saved setting were all over the place too, at one height, front left at 119 and front right at 133, so calibrated it and we now have the biggest difference side to side of 2 bits at all heights.

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Hi, again, thanks for the advice.

I have to say that I didn't think about the fact that if all the blocks were in place then the levels should be correct. I suppose it is obvious really, as the blocks are doing the height figures. As is explained - if all four height blocks are the same, correct height then the car will sit at those same height, regardless of the slope.

Having read the replies I would say that the slope in my driveway isn't too bad. From the advice here I doubt that it will be of any significance.

I think that I was only considering the rear levels, and not including the fronts. Time to get out my blocks, therefore.

Thanks to all for your invaluable contributions.

Pierre3.

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Don't just try and do one end, do both front and rear at each height. Ideally it is a 2 person job and you will need two decent jacks. Drop the suspension down to Access (this lets the air out of the springs), jack up both ends (on the chassis) and fit the High blocks, lower the jacks so it is sitting on the blocks then use the Nanocom in Settings mode. With two people you can do an end each rather than having to keep running around the car at every change. Click the Live button which will cause the figures on the right of the screen to show the current height sensor readings, click the Arrow button at the centre of the screen which will change the Stored numbers to the Live numbers. Hit Save (or Record?) and a box will appear twice and tell you they have been saved.

Then jack it up, remove the High blocks, fit the Standard blocks, lower it again and do the same thing. My blocks are home made ones from 30mm Nylon rod and I found that the Access blocks are about the same height as the bumpstops making it difficult to get them out again so I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the end of them so I can screw a bolt into them to pull them out.

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Excellent explanation, Richard, thanks a lot. Unfortunately, I will have to do this on my own as herself isn't into getting under cars !!!

At least I have two 6 ton axles stands, and a proper workshop, 2.5 ton trolley jack. So I will just have to hope for some good weather, and I can at least do the calibration. Whether that sorts out the strange behaviour of the rear going up and being slow to come down is another issue altogether.

Pierre3.

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You won't need axle stands, all you are doing is jacking it up, fitting the blocks and lowering it down again so it sits on the blocks.

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That's very good information - thanks for your clear instructions.

Pierre3.

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Personally I don't worry about High - that you can measure from the wheel hub using a measuring stick (how long does your P38 drive in high anyway...) Select high ride height, insert standard blocks...select access and then use the nano to accept the ride heights for the standard setting... no need for jacks or anything else... The other important thing as Richard mentioned is the bit count left to right - a big difference in bit count seems to cause problems, and if necessary (ie EAS still seems to be strange things) you need to manually reduce the difference across the axle using the nano (or EAS software). If both L&R sensors were identically aged and worn either side or brand new you probably wouldn't have to do this