My rear left passenger brake has worn out, and the disc has also become damaged. The right side is fine, so I do suspect a seized calliper.
Having never done such a job before, do I need to bleed the system (having the other half press the brake pedal a few times, before I connect the hose back up)?
Chances are the slider on the calliper carrier has seized so the calliper can't move from side to side. So unless you can free that up, you won't be able to fit the new calliper. Ideally you will need a new carrier too.
To bleed a rear calliper, all you need do is plug the pipe when you take the old one off so you don't lose too much fluid. Connect the pipe, open the bleed nipple and with someone pressing the brake pedal, get them to turn the ignition on so the ABS pump runs. As soon as air stops coming out, close the bleed nipple and that should be it. Just make sure the fluid level doesn't drop too far or air will be drawn in at that end and then you will need to do the full bleed procedure..
Gilbertd wrote:
Chances are the slider on the calliper carrier has seized so the calliper can't move from side to side. So unless you can free that up, you won't be able to fit the new calliper. Ideally you will need a new carrier too.
To bleed a rear calliper, all you need do is plug the pipe when you take the old one off so you don't lose too much fluid. Connect the pipe, open the bleed nipple and with someone pressing the brake pedal, get them to turn the ignition on so the ABS pump runs. As soon as air stops coming out, close the bleed nipple and that should be it. Just make sure the fluid level doesn't drop too far or air will be drawn in at that end and then you will need to do the full bleed procedure..
Thanks. Brake pads & discs should arrive today, but my caliper order was cancelled.
When the mechanic jacked the car and rotated the wheel, you could instantly hear a grinding sound.
Usually it's enaugh to free up the slider, possibly new pin/boot, with no need to replace the caliper itself.
th.
When I changed the two short brake pipes and flexi hoses at the reart of my year 2000 P38 I clamped the caliper piston right back and ran the ABS pump running bleed process with the caliper unmounted. I figured this gave the most direct route for the air to escape without any being entrained in the fluid pumped into the cylinder.
Second run through with the calibers in position gave a decently firm pedal. A third run after lunch break shifted a few more air bubbles. All was fine until the next full bleed process a couple of years later.
I make sure I have properly sealing male and female pipe connector caps in the right threads before commencing any brake pipe work. A bit anal but sometimes it saves the day,
Reckon I just managed to get away with things by not introducing too much air into the system. I was fully prepared to go for a full bleed process but thought the short cut was worth a try.
Clive
So,
After an internal battle with removing the calliper bolts, I managed to do the job. New discs + pads. Only one side of the pad was worn. One metal slider was stuck, so I've greased both, and they now function well. As for the calliper, it did not seem seized? I did not require much force to get the brake depressor tool working.
Great! However, I have missed something. When I first took my car to a mechanic, he jacked it, and when he rotated the wheel, you could hear a grinding sound. Problem is..I hear the same noise when spinning the wheel. When driving and going over a bump, I no longer hear grinding, but I now hear a faint 'clunk'.
I have:
However, one calliper bolt kept on spinning, so I had to hold it with a spanner whilst I tightened it..which worked. Could this be it? Otherwise, I can only think of the brake pad clips. I will investigate eventually, in this cold weather.
If the calliper bolt didn't tighten the slider was turning. If has flats on it so it shouldn't turn but if it is worn it can. The grinding noise could be the disc dust shield touching the disc. Are both sides of the anti rattle spring on the pads being pressed in against the inside of the calliper?
Gilbertd wrote:
If the calliper bolt didn't tighten the slider was turning. If has flats on it so it shouldn't turn but if it is worn it can. The grinding noise could be the disc dust shield touching the disc. Are both sides of the anti rattle spring on the pads being pressed in against the inside of the calliper?
I will most likely change that bolt down the line as the process is now easy to understand. However, the issue has gone. No clunking sound and no rubbing when turning the wheel by hand. Well chuffed. The local mechanic wanted £100 to have both sides done. Albeit I have only done one, as the cold weather approaches, that's money saved.