Hi all,
I was a member ages ago but it didn't seem to recognise me when i logged in hence the newbie date. Gilbertd you kindly came round mine near Stansted years ago with your Nanocom to clear my faults (on the car that is)

Anyway hopefully this is a simple one. I got out of the car at the weekend and shut the door behind me and locked it with the fob. what I hadn't realised was the door was only on the first latch so i pushed it fully home. Now the door wont open, all the other doors unlock OK.

When I press the fob the knobs spring up but go straight back down, i've tried pulling on the handle during this process but it wont budge. I guess its now under pressure and as it hasn't released all 4 doors goes straight into lock mode.

I've tried with the engine running and also the battery disconnected, turning the key whilst pressing the fob and trying to open from the inside. all to no avail. Gut feeling its a mechanical not an electrical issue, any ideas what to try next. Thanks.

Sounds like you might have super-locked it by pressing the fob twice ?

That's what I was thinking but if the other doors at least try to unlock that is a bit odd. I've known them to lock and then immediately unlock if a door is open and also to lock if a door is open but then unlock as the door is closed. So it is all a bit weird.....

It sounds as though you have managed to confuse it somehow. Can you unlock with the key, hold the key to unlock and open the door then? There's a danger that by doing that you are going to immobilise it though. Make sure the fob is synced and working so you can take the immobiliser off using that.

I was at Stansted this morning but at 4am so not ideal if it had needed a visit.

Thanks,
I've just tried the above but didn't it work, it looks the knob doesn't raise far enough compared to the near side door.

My day has just got a whole lot worse, 😢 I open the front near side to climb in and put the key in the ignition to lower the window to take a photo, I then jumped in the back to shut the drivers window, climbed out and shut the door just as the wind blew the near side front door shut! result. keys now locked in the car in the ignition on the first click. Spare fob has never worked and would need reprogramming (not sure it would work with the first key already in the ignition). luckily the bonnet was still open so i've removed the battery terminal for now. Make a good sketch show this!

There's something very odd going on here. Ordinarily, if the key is in the ignition, it isn't possible to lock the doors. If the switch sticks so it thinks the key is in even when it isn't, that causes the remote fob to unlock but not to lock (so you can't lock the keys in the car). Biggest problem is that to sort out the problem it is likely the door panel will need to come off to get to the latch but with the door locked shut......

I would suspect a CDL microswitch problem, so the BECM is getting confused whether the car is locked or unlocked. does your spare fob have a key blade ?? Surely that would or should open the door ?

Having accidentally locked my keys inside while changing a dead battery recently, I now know a couple of things.

• Even if you connect Nanocom to the diagnostic lines under the engine bay, the BECM will not connect :-( but wierdly the ABS does. My plan was to unlock using BECM Menu, but that didn't work.
• Luckily earlier last year I got the Lockset code from LR. I contacted Les at CRNW, and he mad me a new fixed blade fob-key. Couple of days later the car was unlocked & running again. All I had to do was sync the new key, so now I have two working keys with different key numbers.

I had this issue, and my door was super-locked ... only the driver's door!!
Once I opened it and re-set it, it never made it again.
Can't stress enough to have two fobs in working order ....

If your metal blade works, you should still be able to "mechanically" open the door, regardless of the microswitch failure, or superlock if active.
Even if you make the alarm/immobilizer upset, at least you get the car to open ...

Thanks all for your feedback, I do have a spare fob and the light comes on so I can only presume the battery is good and its programmed correctly, unfortunately it doesn't recognize the vehicle,

Also the metal blade doesn't mechanically do anything either, neither backwards or forwards, which goes back to the original issue of how I couldn't open the drivers door with the original key fob in the first place. It's been raining for 2 days so I'll have another go at it tomorrow, I might change the fob battery in case that's too weak to send a signal to unlock?

As soon as you change the fob battery, it will lose sync (if it was synced in the first place which if it didn't work it probably wasn't). It isn't possible to sync a fob if the car is immobilised but it sounds like yours isn't just locked. But it does rely on you being able to turn the key in the door lock which you say it isn't capable of doing.

I missed that, I thought the key worked in the keyhole. I stand corrected then ... it is a problem!

My second fob - which is actually Key 1, incidentally - does open from the lock and is able to start the engine fine, but I find impossible in any way to make it work "remotely" ... probably something inside is not working as it should.

So i managed to get into the car, I took the back window intact, the mastic had gone hard anyway and was bouncing each time i shut it so i knew it would be fairy straight forward.

So now i'm back to where i started, drivers door will defiantly not budge with or without the key or fob, it is acting like a mislock in reverse where it locks instead of opening. I tried it with all doors and bonnet shut as I read with one of these open it would simulate the issue.

My next thought it to put my Icarsoft reader on it and see if i can clear any faults? and thoughts?

Depending on what version, it is pretty unlikely an iCarsoft will do anything. Most non vehicle specific readers can only communicate with the engine. It definitely sounds as though the latch is either superlocked or something has broken inside so it has got itself into a superlocked state. Whatever has happened though, it still needs to door to be opened to get the door panel off so the latch can be accessed.

Hi all

Major progress today, the Icarsoft idea didn't work so I decided to focus on the mechanical route as the issue, I put the window down so I could peer in through the gap at the top and could see that the inside handle mechanism didn't seem to be sitting in its 'home' position, with a few pulls on the inside handle it was clear that it wasn't moving anything regardless of the lock position so I assume the cable has stretched or the lock end of the cable is stiff.
I managed to poke a rod down onto the top of the cable catch and push it all the way home. after this a press of the fob unlocked all doors and they stayed unlocked.

The door works freely now from the outside and I'll order a new cable for the inside latch and give it all a good squirt of WD40 before i put it all back together.
I guess when I got out the first time and shut the door the inner catch hadn't sprang back fully, but just enough to for the door to catch on the first stage, when I pushed on the door further to close it rather than open it completely to start again it then went into superlock confusion mode. Having aligned the inner handle piece of the lock mechanism it reset itself.

Many thanks for your responses, any hints on fixing the rear window back in place :-)

You probably don't need a new cable, the plastic C shaped but that the cable operates is on a steel pin, The steel pin corrodes so it expands and the plastic bit binds on it. You can work it back and forth with a bit of WD40 or similar on it or take the latch out and clean it up fully.

My brain must be getting slower. Realised I've had this before but not caused in the same way as yours. The dead giveaway was the interior handle going floppy as if the cable had broken.