I damaged the PCB whilst attempting to replace the case with one from China.

This meant my ENGINE DISABLED message was awaiting my presence once I attempted to start the car.
What was new to me was seeing "or Enter Key Code" after "PRESS REMOTE".

Now, I know my EKA code. This worked. The car started. Attempting to do it again, I no longer saw "or Enter Key Code". The car is not accepting my EKA code. I don't see a lockout error, but I only see "PRESS REMOTE" Do I have to wait? I've not been locked out from entering the key..

Have you disconnected the battery? If you have you will get a Keycode Lockout message on the dash which will go out after 30 minutes. While that is displayed, you cannot enter the EKA.

As it stands now, every time you lock and subsequently unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA. If the EKA is entered with a Nanocom, then you can lock and unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA.

Send your key here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146 to get it repaired and fitted into a decent quality case.

Gilbertd wrote:

Have you disconnected the battery? If you have you will get a Keycode Lockout message on the dash which will go out after 30 minutes. While that is displayed, you cannot enter the EKA.

As it stands now, every time you lock and subsequently unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA. If the EKA is entered with a Nanocom, then you can lock and unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA.

Send your key here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146 to get it repaired and fitted into a decent quality case.

I have not disconnected the battery. Oddly, the EKA code stopped working right after it worked once. I don't see the EKA Code Lockout error at all. Bit weird that it worked once and not anymore. I'm going to try again soon. It has to work as this is my daily lol.

No matter what I do, I just see PRESS REMOTE. No “or enter key code”. The indicators flash each time I turn the key.

I lock the car, then turn four times. Even tried locking first (counting as 1), and turning 3 more times. Doesn’t work. I also don’t get the chirp to confirm I’ve entered the mode (2001)

I have three genuine keys from previous P38s. I can’t imagine they’d sync with this..I tried but failed. Maybe a nanocom/dealership job.

Close all doors, bonnet and tailgate. Turn the key to lock 4 times, on each turn the hazards should flash, then start the EKA with turns to unlock for the first number, lock for the second and so on. After the first 4 turns, the small green lights-on telltale on the dash should flash with each turn. Then immediately start the car. If you have passive immobilisation enabled in the BeCM, the immobiliser will kick in again if you don't start it within 30 seconds.

Gilbertd wrote:

Close all doors, bonnet and tailgate. Turn the key to lock 4 times, on each turn the hazards should flash, then start the EKA with turns to unlock for the first number, lock for the second and so on. After the first 4 turns, the small green lights-on telltale on the dash should flash with each turn. Then immediately start the car. If you have passive immobilisation enabled in the BeCM, the immobiliser will kick in again if you don't start it within 30 seconds.

Yeah, I saw no lights flash on the dash. I suspect a dodgy door latch, as I did make a post briefly on here stating it would not unlock.

If that is the case, Nanocom is your only option.

Gilbertd wrote:

If that is the case, Nanocom is your only option.

I've messaged that guy on eBay. If he can repair it, great. If not, Les Edward it is for a new key.

Don't forget that even if your key is repaired, or you get a programmed replacement, it will still need to be synced to the car and you can't sync a key to an immobilised car, the immobiliser has to be off. Usual process if the battery has been off or you have changed the keyfob batteries and the car was left locked, is to enter the EKA and then sync the fob.

Normally you should not need the EKA unless it actually asks for it. The normal sequence is to unlock the car using the Remote, and then put in Ignition. The BECM should automatically enable the Engine.

If you lock with the remote & then unlock with the key, it will ask for something.

• If it says "Keycode Lockout" then you need to wait (usually about 30 minutes).
• If it says "Press Remote or Enter Keycode" then either should work, but it probably needs the EKA. If door latch is bad, use Nanocom - it's easier.
• If it's just saying "Press Remote" then do that, and it should sync whilst in the ignition

All of the above assume you have working door latches & working remote.

Pete12345 wrote:

Normally you should not need the EKA unless it actually asks for it. The normal sequence is to unlock the car using the Remote, and then put in Ignition. The BECM should automatically enable the Engine.

Only if Passive Immobilisation is enabled (the setting in the BeCM menu simply labelled as Immobiliser). If that is the case, the coil around the ignition switch, in combination with the key in microswitch, causes the remote to send the unlock code.

All of the above assume you have working door latches & working remote.

But he's already admitted he thinks his door latch is 'iffy' and that he damaged the PCB in his remote while trying to fit a new case. That's why I say he needs someone with a Nanocom.

v8vroom wrote:

Gilbertd wrote:

Have you disconnected the battery? If you have you will get a Keycode Lockout message on the dash which will go out after 30 minutes. While that is displayed, you cannot enter the EKA.

As it stands now, every time you lock and subsequently unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA. If the EKA is entered with a Nanocom, then you can lock and unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA.

Send your key here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146 to get it repaired and fitted into a decent quality case.

I have not disconnected the battery. Oddly, the EKA code stopped working right after it worked once. I don't see the EKA Code Lockout error at all. Bit weird that it worked once and not anymore. I'm going to try again soon. It has to work as this is my daily lol.

After three weeks, my key was repaired by this guy. Thanks for the recommendation.

I assuemd new batteries would fix all issues, however, that is not the case. There are inconsistencies with the car accepting an action from my remote key. Some days the car will unlock from 50ft, but others, it will not react when stood right next to the door. Could it be the receiver?

it could be the receiver or it could just be where you are parked. If there is a high level of RF in the area you are parked and it doesn't want to unlock, just hold the fob next to the receiver aerial on the RH rear window. I've found with mine (with one of Marty's fob fix units in it), that in some places it will only lock if I hold the fob next to the aerial but will usually unlock fine.

Gilbertd wrote:

it could be the receiver or it could just be where you are parked. If there is a high level of RF in the area you are parked and it doesn't want to unlock, just hold the fob next to the receiver aerial on the RH rear window. I've found with mine (with one of Marty's fob fix units in it), that in some places it will only lock if I hold the fob next to the aerial but will usually unlock fine.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

My personal circumstances have changed, so I may very well double down on the car (within reason, lol) (£2k budget). It's either I sell the car (with difficulty), and then spend £8k buying my old Jag XJ. I'd rather just fix the small issues, as the car is solid.

Would you know the going rate for these jobs?

1. Front ball joints - quoted £800
2. Camshaft (if it's the reason for the rattle/maybe lifters) - ?
3. Front diff - can not be bothered doing myself. Got bored yesterday and changed the oil. Nothing changed - still noisy, so time to buy a second-hand unit. £150ish + labour - ?

I've emailed a few places to get a rough idea, but it'll be nice to know who is potentially ripping me off.

Front ball joints are around £60 for the parts and a relatively easy job if you have the tool for changing them, impossible if you don't. £800 doesn't sound too bad but ensure that is a firm quote and not an estimate where they try to charge you extra as it took longer than they expected.

You need to identify if it is the camshaft, lifters or rockers. Rocker shaft wear isn't unknown and there was a batch of rockers with poor hardening. Admittedly they were fitted to earlier cars than yours but who knows what has been changed before you got it.

Sounds about right for a front diff, labour shouldn't be more than a couple of hours at most.