This car is really a test of faith in whatever....

Last subject was the change of the VC which I hadn´t done yet, then all lights started pulsating (Had that a couple of times, tightening of battery cables fixed that) and then suddenly it did not crank anymore.
That straw broke my camels´ back and I de-registered it, had enough.
Got an EV as a daily driver which is really great, especially with the soaring petrol prices (LPG als went up, but only 20%).

Now I am not giving up on Rangie, so I am back at it.
Ignition went on, Battery is good, when I put the key in Pos. III I only heard clicks from relays but no crank.
Changed the starter for a spare one (good practice since I had to order a 5/16 " allen thingy to put on my 1/2 " wrench.)
Same problem. Bridging the Starter Motor relay worked, so starter, solenoid and cable from fuse box to starter was OK. Relay was also OK. But no Signal from BECM to engage the Relay. Thought it might be the fuse box. But connection from BECM to fusebox was good but no ground signal to engage the relay.
Went to the ignition switch, checked all positions, also OK.
Found that the wire from the ignition switch (white/red) to the BECM did not have continuity. Bridged that with a cable and TADDAAAA, the starter cracked !

So far so good, wondered how that cable, which runs behind the dashboard should have been damaged but now comes the tricky bit:

I removed the brdiging cable and wanted to run a new cable. But the car now starts again without the bridging. As if nothing happened. How the hell can THAT be ???

I am stunned. Any ideas ??

What was also suprising was that it fired up instantly after sitting 2,5 months (before it always needed some seconds to fire up...)
And that, since it had gone ot the bumpstops in the time it was sitting, it went back up to ride height in less than a minute of the engine running...guess the tank was still full....?
Always full of surprises this car.....

If the wire in question runs through the rh kick panel plug, as I think it does, it's probably
A corroded connection there. These can be intermittently weak, as well as go/ no go.
Also look under the sill plate as a slight nick in the wiring loom can lead to a corroded wire there.
You may have to unwind the lousy tape from the loom to isolate the wire you need.
As you will have to get in there to run a new wire it's not a wasted step.
Virtually every plug I have seen behind either kick panel has had some corrosion.

According to RAVE the cable doen not run through the dreaded connectors, I have also cut them out and soldered them together a couple of years ago. But I´ll have a look at the cable running along the from the BECM in the footwell... Just weird that I didn´t move or touch anything and suddenly it works again...as if bridging the wire had some effect on the electronics....