Hi my name is Simon I'm 39 years old from Switzerland (born in Germany) and I bought a P38 around 3 months ago. 😊
It’s a 1999 4.6L Thorn with around 145km on the clock in Coniston Green. I’ve found this forum through reddit (the admin of this forum had some great suggestion for my current issues) and here’s my introduction. 😊

So far, I’ve:

• Reupholstered the headlining
• Fixed sunroof
• Fixed sunroof drains
• Fixed water drains above the pollen filter
• Repainted some interior (removed the sticky plastic coating and repainted)
• New handbrake leather cover
• New rearview Mirror
• Oil change, new filters, wiper blades etc.
• Polished the whole car
• Repainted exterior plastic parts where the color had faded (window sils, etc.)
• Removed tinted window foil
• Removed the antenna after my battery died (I know, not really a fix)

Current Issues:

• EAS Fault Message
  o My Battery died after the car was not started for 2 weeks.
  o Replaced it with a new one and got the expected fault messages (windows, sunroof not set, radio code, hevac etc.)
  o Drove it 80km to my new parking spot
  o Ran over a small curb (not fast at all)
  o 5min later the EAS Fault message appeared (not restricted to 35mph)
  o 2 days ago I’ve driven around 200km without any issues
  o However, today I saw that the front is down and the rear is still up.
  o Previous owner had the EAS controller fixed in the UK, currently don’t have the documentation for this on me but I think it should be fine.

• Tachometer
  o Is spinning out of control

Done so far:

• I’ve ordered the P38a cable with software from RSW
• Checked the connector cables under the coolant expansion tank.

Future Todo List:

• Gasoline Cover/Flap is broken / Does not stay closed.
• Repaint some more exterior plastic parts / and inside interior
• Subwofer and CD Changer were not working (therefore I’ve removed them for now)
• Rust holes from leaking sunroof drains in the spare tire bay must be welded (so far I’ve removed the worst rust and closed them with epoxy)

Special:

• The previous owner went camping with the P38 and had a second battery system from IBS installed.

If you’ve read all this, thank you for your attention and having me. 😊

Best
Simon

Welcome aboard Simon..👍

Welcome. Rather than the connector under the coolant reservoir, have a look at the 18 way, white connector behind the RH kick panel. That will corrode if you have a leak around the pollen filter housing. The best way of dealing with it is to cut it out and solder and heat shrink the wires. You never need to unplug that connector unless you want to lift the body off the chassis. A number of data lines, including the tacho signal go through it.

I've never heard of anyone having an EAS controller fixed, they are cheap enough from a breakers to not make it worthwhile. Once you get your diagnostics, you'll have a far better chance of working out the problem, although my first guess would be a failing height sensor.

For the fuel filler flap, the usual problem is part number 6 on this diagram https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55820.56288.60760/brand/land-rover/ breaks, although it isn't unheard of for the actual actuator (part 7) to come undone and fall down inside.

If it is BPX700010 as indicated by Richard above then a new part is readily available on Amazon from various different suppliers.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=BPX700010&crid=18325GSQ2KWJG&sprefix=bpx700010%2Caps%2C186&ref=nb_sb_noss

If you do need another EAS ECU, I have about 4 of them sitting here in my box of random p38 ECUs.

Thank you all for the tips and responses. I won't be able to work on the P38 this week, as soon as I received the adapter cable and the software from RSW I'll report back.

@Gilbertd, thank you! that is a really good idea! The previous owner mentioned he had issues with water coming in through the pollen filters. I've fixed it the way LandyManLewis showed it on his YouTube channel. The screws in the inlet over the driver side were completed corroded, for some reason I didn't think about checking the electrics though...

Regarding the EAS Controller, you might be right. I've found a receipt from "Turner Mechtronics LTD" of 200 Pound for a "Returned Control Unit", I thought it was the EAS but might have been the BECM?

@nigelbb Thank you Sir, I think that is the part that I need, I'll report back once I start working on it again.

@Martyuk, I real hope I'll be able to fix it, however, if I won't I'll gladly reach out to you! thank you! :)

Update :)

Good and bad news. I received the EAS Unlock V4 and was able to reset the EAS error and "everything" seemed to work again.

I detached the fob antenna to prevent future battery draining. However, I had the P38 parked for 1,5 weeks and it died again. This time the battery wasnt completely drained and I was able to jump start it (without the alarm going off, I had to reset the radio though).

I reconnected the EAS Unlock and tried to reset the EAS again, however this time it did not work and now I have the "Slow 55mph" message. I don't think it's actually broken and will wait a little and try again after I've driven it a bit. I'm worried though that during the jumpstart something got fried.

@Gilbertd, I checked the connector behind the RH kick panel, haven soldered it yet (I life in the city and have to walk rather far to my car) but it didn't look too bad. I'll try to fix it over Christmas when I visit my parents.

Thank you guys for all the help so far!

*edit

Why I think something got fried during the jumpstart is because while I was in the car, the guy who helped me switched the battery charger from 12v to 24v for a sec. Since it took too long to charge the battery we ended up jumpstarting it from another car. So I think maybe during the switch from 12v to 24v a breaker got fried.

*edit 2

Drove it around 200km and once I started the P38 again, the EAS worked again :D so nothing fried and we're back :D