rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
Member
Joined: Jan 06 2016
Posts: 2312

While I've been working my way around the doors, I've been cutting the Orange/ pink wire between the latch and outstations to disable the Superlock motor feed.
Looking at the wiring diagram though, I'm wondering whether I should have cut both Superlocking motor wires at the latch.
Have I just created a problem for myself by cutting the one wire and now have a system that'll Superlock and not unlock?
Doesn't look like it, but I do like to second guess myself occasionally.
Thoughts?

Member
avatar
Joined: Jan 05 2016
Posts: 774

Just cut the one - the superlocking pawl can't move in either direction then because it reverses polarity to engage/disengage. You'll still hear the main motor run for a second time after the 'settle' period, but as the pawl has been neutered, its just like pressing lock again.

Member
Joined: Jan 06 2016
Posts: 2312

That's great Sloth. Thanks for that. It was the fact that when I tested it after the snip I could hear that second motor run that made me question the sanity of what I was doing.
Here's the one I've cut (and its equivalent on the other doors- they're all Orange/ pink
enter image description here

Member
avatar
Joined: Jan 05 2016
Posts: 774

Yeah I wasn't sure either when I first did it, till Marty explained how the cretinous thing actually worked. The second locking sound had me confused.

The other thing is, if you cut the other wire, you'll also stop the normal motor working, as its shared between the two.

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 968

As Sloth says...

The 2 motors share a common wire, which when locking is ground, and then positive is pulsed on the CDL motor wire for normal lock, and then both the CDL wire AND superlock wire for superlocking.

The way superlocking works is that the superlocking motor moves a pawl out of the way (it stops the latch from going into superlocks by default) and the CDL motor then moves the actual locking mechanism past the normal locked state into superlocked state.

With the superlocking motor disabled, the second motor movement you hear is just the CDL triggering again, but it just clunks as the superlocking pawl is still in place and thus won't let the mechanism move .

Cutting both wires will render the latch motors/locking inoperable completely.

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 143

This is an old thread but today my dancing locks started again.... then I hit a bump and heard WHIRRRRRRRR............. WHIRRRRRRRRRRR from inside the door. SHIT! Bloody superlocks.

So that's it. The orange/pink wire is now cut. I can do without that locking me out while in France.

Thanks to all those who suffered on the path to learning, you save me pain!

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 968

Dancing locks isn't superlocking - it's an intermittent microswitch in one of the front latches triggering it to lock the doors.

Member
avatar
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2683

As Marty says, it's dodgy microswitches. The door that doesn't lock is the one with the dodgy switch.

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 143

Martyuk wrote:

Dancing locks isn't superlocking - it's a ln intermittent microswitch in one of the front latches triggering it to lock the doors.

I'm used to the dancing locks which is why I disconnected the antenna for the CDL (to rule that out), but it was the very loud WHIIIRRRRRRRRRR noise inside the drivers door. I haven't heard it before but I've read enough. Hence it got lobotomised :-D The rest will when the weather permits.

The doors all lock ok, but I think the naughty microswitch is in the drivers door. On my list of "to do's"

Member
avatar
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2683

The superlock motor is a tiny little thing and I doubt you'd hear it, most likely it was the actual lock motor. Faulty latches can cause them to try to run constantly and burn out. Disconnecting the antenna will have no affect whatsoever on the dancing locks. For that to be the cause you'd need to have either keyfob that was operating all on it's own (but with the key in the ignition it would still be close enough to the receiver for it to pick up a signal from the fob) or something else sending exactly the right code to lock and unlock your car. With the next thing after dancing locks being locking you out and not being able to enter the EKA, I'd move it up to the top of the to do list. Something to do while waiting for your new water pump.

Member
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 968

Earlier BECMs (especially with the 1st generation RF receivers) when they got swamped with data on the RF line would continuously trigger the locks and that's what causes the motors to burn out on the early vehicles - later BECMs had it programmed into them where after a certain amount of triggers, it would stop actuating the locks to prevent the motors burning out.

On earlier vehicles upgrading the RF receiver to prevent the spurious RF constantly triggering the BECM sorts it aswell... though as we know LR charge a pretty penny for the later receiver... though luckily we now have an option at less than a third of what Land Rover asks, which is a plug and play solution ;) check out my website for more info :)

Member
avatar
Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2683

Martyuk wrote:

though luckily we now have an option at less than a third of what Land Rover asks, which is a plug and play solution ;) check out my website for more info :)

and I can vouch that it works perfectly.

If you saw my thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1024-ignition-tamper you'll know that I suffered interference to the keyfob receiver from a 433 MHz wireless central heating thermostat in our new house. Although it should have only sent a data burst every 10 minutes it turned out that it was faulty and sending a burst every 15 seconds so the BeCM was never going to sleep. Had I not had the ginormous Hankook battery fitted chances are it would have gone flat overnight. In fact, after not being used one evening so had been left for two days, the starter did sound decidedly sluggish when I next used it. If the car was left parked for any length of time the first press of unlock on the fob tried to lock the already locked doors, second press unlocked it. When turning the ignition on the message centre came up with ALARM TRIGGERED, followed by IGNITION TAMPER. If a door was left open for any length of time, after the interior lights had timed out and gone out shortly afterwards the dash would beep and display INTERIOR LIGHTS OFF, followed a few seconds later by IGNITION LIGHTS ON and it would continue doing this for as long as it was left unlocked with a door open.

I was sent one of Marty and Nick's prototype units to test. Although I replaced the faulty thermostat with a newer one operating on 868 MHz, I left the old one powered up so although it was no longer controlling the heating was still transmitting. My car was no longer affected at all and was back to normal, although I had to disconnect the battery on the SE and, as the Ascot came back from the extended loan to my boss, found that it was doing exactly the same as mine. So I had 3 cars, 2 without the unit and one with and the one with was the only one not being affected by the data bursts from the thermostat. So I can confirm it works perfectly and is also a 5 minute job to fit. Lift the panel to access the receiver on the car, unplug the cable to the receiver, plug the unit inline and put the cover back, job done and no more suffering from RF issues due to other transmissions in the area. Thanks lads, f*cking brilliant!

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 143

Thanks for the info guys. I had never heard that whirr in the doors before only the dancing locks. I'll move that up to the top now as I've completed the waterpump and belts swaps.

Drivers lock.
Then hevac flaps...
Then the mysterious rattles I can now hear...
Then tail gate flap spring...
Then the SRS code 08 which I now have after hitting an enormous pot hole outside of Manchester airport.... (that was 2 days after passing the MOT - no rush on that hahahaha)