.

That'll do it nicely. In fact with 30m you could probably replace all the pipes. Those blue ended joins usually leak anyway but if you put an extra O ring in so there's two at each end they do work. Alternatively get the genuine LR ones, nearly a tenner each but have two O rings each end and do work well.

Think I’ll get that in order and I might replace all the lines when I renew my valve block seals in the summer. I can just do this one pipe to save the compressor, then do the others slow time

Can anyone confirm the trick to disable to self levelling? Figured I would do a full leak check plus saves wasting that precious stored air! Is it still the case of removing the timer relay and replacing with one of the normal yellow relays? Then just keep the big one in the car encase of fault diagnosis.

Means I could measure each corner and see if there are any leaks between the valveblock and the bags

Bonnet open or boot ajar will do it, thats if you can or I think disconnect the battery. Otherwise you will have to wait for the other more knowledgeable.

More thinking of a long term fix as my drive is on a slant anyway and it goes ballistic when I shut the car off. My wife has stolen the flat car port so I have to book in with her at the weekends to get the P38 in there for repairs!

4 pin relay (yellow) will do the job. You'll need to replace the timer relay if you want 100% guaranteed diagnostics access though.
I've found that if you fit the 4 pin when the system is in balance (asleep, normal height on a level surface) it stops random jumping up when starting the car. Only based on a sample of 2 though.

Or,if just doing it as a test,remove the timer relay and leave it out. You only need replace it with a 4 pin relay if you intend leaving it out if you only want the EAS to work with the ignition on.