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Member
Joined: Mar 20 2018
Posts: 96

Evening guys, got a weird one with the EAS, so I rebuild the entire system. New everything minus sensors and ECU and it was working fine for about a month.

It’s started today, the car is raising and lowering itself by approximately 2cm on all of the corners in all modes, less at high and acsess profiles. Does it driving and stopped now.

I’ve diagnosed it to basically the compressor runs the tank up the pressure and then while it gets to just about cut off it raises the car, compressor shuts off then the car will lower the suspension back to the selected height setting. When the compressor fires back up the same happens.

None of the airbag valves indicate as open when this happens, neither do the inlet or exhaust valve indicate that they are open. So electronically the system is sound as everything operates as it should. I’m guessing one of the new seals in the valve block has not seated correctly or got nicked on the way in.

Anyone got any ideas which one/ones it could be?

Non-return valve or a leaking inlet/exhaust valve?

Again the problem only happens when the reservoir is near full and for maybe 5 seconds before the compressor is shut off. It has to be an internal leak at the top end of the pressure.

So if I use the system a couple of times to get the stored pressure down it makes the problem go away until it’s back up to pressure.

Any help would be great, means I have a place to start when I get a chance To pull it apart again! Couldn’t have too long with fully working suspension!!

Member
Joined: Mar 22 2016
Posts: 793

Double check all connections in the eas box, otherwise try rewriting the ride heights but a couple of points different, could be sensors are finally on the way out

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 102

Hi RR,

Mine is very similar after my rebuild. When I finally get home I'm going to compare the reed valve against the article that Wammer's did on the other site (which is on this forum somewhere).
Mine takes 10 minutes to fill the tank (normal) car goes up. The problem I get is that when I bought the car if I dropped to the lowest setting it came straight back up in seconds. Now I have to wait for the tank pressure to build back up before it moves. Very inconvenient!
Good luck and post the outcome!

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 102

and now I am home the saga continues!

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 2573

If you are losing pressure in the tank and you've had the valve block apart, most likely place is the pressure switch. You'll most likely have had it out and it hasn't got a good seal so is allowing the tank to drain while standing. You wouldn't ordinarily notice it if you have no other leaks anywhere as no pressure in the tank would only show up if you dropped it down and tried to get it to rise back up. If you did that after it's been running for a while it would be fine as the tank would have had chance to fill. PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 102

Ah yes, I did have it off when I was swapping stuff between blocks. Thanks. I also dismantled the block and found an extra (!) o ring jamming the middle NRV. No idea how that got there - I was probably too tired when I made that bloody mistake.

I'm going to get a refurb kit and go over it slowly using black o rings this time, not the red squidgy ones. Thanks for the advice mate

Member
Joined: Feb 02 2018
Posts: 102

Gilbertd wrote:

PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.

I did exactly this after I read your advice. Today my car goes up like it's on steroids. Happy camper!