.

Double check all connections in the eas box, otherwise try rewriting the ride heights but a couple of points different, could be sensors are finally on the way out

Hi RR,

Mine is very similar after my rebuild. When I finally get home I'm going to compare the reed valve against the article that Wammer's did on the other site (which is on this forum somewhere).
Mine takes 10 minutes to fill the tank (normal) car goes up. The problem I get is that when I bought the car if I dropped to the lowest setting it came straight back up in seconds. Now I have to wait for the tank pressure to build back up before it moves. Very inconvenient!
Good luck and post the outcome!

and now I am home the saga continues!

If you are losing pressure in the tank and you've had the valve block apart, most likely place is the pressure switch. You'll most likely have had it out and it hasn't got a good seal so is allowing the tank to drain while standing. You wouldn't ordinarily notice it if you have no other leaks anywhere as no pressure in the tank would only show up if you dropped it down and tried to get it to rise back up. If you did that after it's been running for a while it would be fine as the tank would have had chance to fill. PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.

Ah yes, I did have it off when I was swapping stuff between blocks. Thanks. I also dismantled the block and found an extra (!) o ring jamming the middle NRV. No idea how that got there - I was probably too tired when I made that bloody mistake.

I'm going to get a refurb kit and go over it slowly using black o rings this time, not the red squidgy ones. Thanks for the advice mate

Gilbertd wrote:

PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.

I did exactly this after I read your advice. Today my car goes up like it's on steroids. Happy camper!