mace wrote:

It's supposedly 200 steps for one of them, and slightly more for the other. 11% puts it bang in the middle of both ranges by my reckoning, so should be good for either, assuming of course it really is a percentage :)

22 is what the Morgan plus 8 GEMS guide says is right for the steps to adjust it to, and is also 11% of 200 of course - I have only just made that connection, must be having a slow brain day.

(My rpm seems not to take off 'on its own' under the idle stepper motor's control until around 11-1200 rpm, which is why I think there's something out on it it ought to be more like 8-900 -probably- but that's not really helpful to your emissions situation).

I've only seen mine get to maybe 70% or so under load, so yours is probably about the same as mine. I would imagine there's no real point in opening up to 100% as it would just delay how quickly the ECU can close it if the car drops to idle.

I reckon you're right - I must admit I'm guilty of typing without thinking there, Im sure that the Idle figure is a step-number rather than a %, as Gilbertd wrote, way up the top of the thread. I set mine around 22 on the Nanocom with A/C and fans turned off generally, there seems to be a balancing act between that and the LT and ST idle adaptive steps but on mine it seems to be best to concentrate on the 15-30 range and get that in the right place rather than worry about the other two. Something else that happened when I first adjusted the bypass is that the (high) calculated load went down a bit, although it's still up near 20 (indicated) %. After the next MOT I will have a good dig around the GEMS system if it all goes according to plan.

Mine is quite tappety especially from cold, has been since I got it - the Bosch is less so, even at a higher mileage (I think the oil pressure's higher, maybe helps) although it has its own problems at the moment.

The idle step figure - I agree, it doesnt answer what's up with yours, doubt it would be running at all normally by the time it did enough to throw the emissions out. Cheers.

Short version: Idle figure is the bottom of GEMS / Inputs / Air-Idle / Second Screen "Idle Air Control Valve" and appears to be in the right format for setting to 15-30, or as close-as.

Longer Verson: The Nanocom shows the short term idle and long term idle under settings, and under Gems / Inputs / Air-Idle, which is where I tend to check the throttle position stored vs actual, the intake temperature sensor reading and so-on. On the second page along, this has, amongst other things, the short term adaptive idle, long term adaptive idle (these seem to change more readily than, for example, GEMS LTFT - or at least on mine) and the Idle air Control Valve figure.

Last MOT (another one's due in two weeks so I'm looking at all this again, along with the O2 readings etc etc) it got through OK after cleaning the stepper motor and airways in, plus adjusting the idle % which was up around the 40's at least. It's the last one on that nanocom screen which the bypass valve under the plate affects - the stepper value listed as Idle Air Control Valve, it's not stalling at idle after a reset now it's adjusted - still think I need to fit a new stepper though.

The Bosch passed its MOT 6 months or so ago smelling fairly rich, I don't have a Thor option on the nanocom to look at it, only for the GEMS as it's the one I mostly use (and prefer tbh).

As far as I can tell, the Nanocom seems to be reporting the GEMS figures fairly correctly, my calculated load is usually 20-something but that's likely the car - it's a work in progress, and in mine the O2's switch 0-6.5v but that could be the ECU chip. When I put the tornado in it went to -160 LTFT on adaptive reset, but I suspect it's because it's based on the earlier tune ID (9619 instead of 9625) which did that anyway.

My ST/LT air values usually seem to end up higher on the air side of things. The Iacv % I can't get to much over 60 odd, maybe they don't or maybe my stepper motor's nadgered - it's on the list to replace at some point.

Were there two colours of beige leather?

I've always wondered that. Just visible through the door (it's had a hard life from what I can tell though) -

I tried cleaning a plastic door panel 'properly' once - it looked like I'd bleached a patch, not sure what the original shade was, but the seats get cleaned with leather cream from time to time, they don't change from that milky-tea colour.

P Reg HSE foreground. (T Reg 4.0 behind)

GEMS HSE ready to assume weekend position over the pit.

Strongly suspect mine (Freelander) had viscous problems for a fair time before it turned up for sale on its last legs with the failing reduction drive unit. It also likely hadn't had much use immediately before it was sold on and I ended up with it. It's been fine since repair though with the low mileage it does nothing's shown up yet.

It is a funny thing the way the P38's creep up on you. I've not had any other cars I've been quite so attentive to. Can't explain that one. Mine's clearly been a dog kennel (or something) for a while, and spent a fair amount of time being treated rather badly by the looks of it.
One day it's a cheap, useful runaround, the next it's become a sort of object of fascination and ongoing project.

Now I've got the GEMS through its first MOT with me as owner I need to look at the work Bosch and get that in better shape, it's fiendishly clunky in comparison, which it shouldn't be.

Thing is it's actually fun to learn about the systems and bits that make it what it is. P38 for me = never bored, and that's a good thing. Plus depite the reputation they have, I've not found any part of it to be a huge pain to work on compared to other cars.

Morning, not posted before so hello! Normally drive a P38 but I also have a Freelander as a backup vehicle (not helpful if you're after a diesel, but it's petrol: got a bit sick of headgaskets so drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat - never managed to get quite so attached to it as I have with the Range Rovers and it's cured the cooling issues, think the coolant capacity's a bit inadequate for the engine possibly).

(Engine aside, and won't be the same problems with a diesel). It's actually a surprisingly useful little car. As has been said, the viscous coupling can go, but it really isn't an enormous problem to do it. Something that also fell apart on mine was the IRD (probably due to the VC failure? - was a cheap layby purchase with no history attached), but again, it wasn't overly expensive to sort out.

Overall fairly capable and actually not a bad car to drive around in. Apart from the diff and cooling it's just got a bit of a battery drain problem going on. Nothing too bad (my GEMS P38 was eating a full battery in two days at one point, the Bosch I use for work never seems to lose charge at all, Freelander's between the two. Need to look at it when I have the time, otherwise it seems happy with a maintenance charger on it for now).

Personally I actually quite like them. Used a TD4 semi-regularly on a farm for a while a few years back, and my spare one's not bad for a car that gets little use currently, and thus misses out on the daily maintenance and fixes it'd get from regular driving.
People I know who have, or have had, TD4's have not had strings of problems with them, think the weak engine's probably just the 1.8 petrol, the two Freelanders I've used fairly often have been OK overall.