Hi,
as if the "To Do" List wouldn´t be long enought, I had vibrations for some months and loud noises when starting.
Looks like the Flex Plate has shifted / broken / whatever:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IHEbqieghzBhnFEapoqegqmkltUEYkbc
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rxsjmXUk_gFJNldT5QKpXgMvZg8KabT_
It seems to have "eaten" its way into the flywheel a bit.
Just change the flex plate and leave the flywheel?
I read that it could be done with "just" shifting the Transmission backwards.
Any hints/thoughts?
Thanks and greetings,
Max.
Need to request access to look at the pics. I think you need to change the permissions on them.
Thanks for the cue, forgot to change the permissions....^^
It looks as though the centre has broken so the inner bolts fixing it to the crank and the outer ones connecting it to the Torque converter have moved in relation to each other. So the bolt heads against the flywheel access holes are all that is transmitting the power. Although there is damage to the flywheel, it doesn't look too bad and I would be inclined to leave it as long as it doesn't have any cracks.
You can either shift the transmission back to gain access or, in my view easier, move the engine forwards. If you disconnect the exhaust downpipes from the manifolds and remove the radiator and viscous fan, you've opened up a lot of space at the front so with an engine crane (and disconnecting the odd coolant hose and electrical wiring), you can unbolt the engine mounts, raise the engine slightly and move it forwards. With it hanging on an engine crane makes the job a lot easier than trying the support the gearbox and transfer case as the shape and uneven weight distribution makes it awkward. The last thing you want it the transmission dropping on you while you are underneath changing the flex plate.
OK, sounds like a good plan.
Thanks !
Soooo, I am finally starting the task of changing the flexplate and some small things along that way.
I removed the right exhaust manifold because I was having ticking noises from that area sounding like a gasket leak.
Now this thing has this flexible connection in the middle and although everything looks good, I can "wobble" the manifold at the flex connection when I move it in my hands. Is that normal ? I have never seen such a connection in a manifold therefore I an not sure how they are supposed to be...
It shouldn't wobble, it's an expansion joint. While it is off, seal the bottom and fill it with water. If it leaks out, it's split.
Tried that, thanks.
It doesn't leak at the Flex joint but it does at the inner side of the intersection where 2 and 2 come together...
The steel looks like it is weldable, right ?
It should be, it's only ordinary steel. I wouldn't attempt it but my welding is terrible, I can stick two bits of 5mm steel together but on anything thinner I just end up blowing holes in it.....
I'll give it a try, have nothing to lose, isn't easy finding the right manifold here in Germany...
Other alternative would be exhaust repair paste but I don't think it will last that long...
Ideally find someone to TIG weld it. Its stainless steel.
Is it stainless steel? Then I couldn't do it anyway. Thanks.
yeah the tubes are stainless, probably a low grade likwe 409 hence they can be a little "rusty" looking. Plain mild steel would have rotted away years ago!
You can mig weld stainless using the wire and gas used for mild steel.
you can, but i suspect in such an extreme enviroment with huge temperature cycling etc it will fail.
The weld will also be susceptible to rusting.
I've modified stainless exhaust systems a few times with mig and mild steel wire, and it doesnt last long, the welds rot out quickly.
Good point with the heat. I made a ss exhaust for my motorhome but used the original downpipe which was around 3ft long, ss from that to a side exit silencer and that was fine for the 6 yrs I owned it but things would be a lot cooler that far from the turbo.
And mines a diesel 38 and I have no idea what that petrol part looks like either!
Another Question: what is the correct procedere to change the flex plate when just moving the engine a bit to the front ?
Open the inspection hole and remove the flex plate bolts from there and then move the engine to the front, taking care that the torque converter stays exactly where is it, then remove the rest of the bolts ? And the same vice versa ?
Yes, remove the 4 bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter. I normally wedge a lump of wood up through the inspection hole to stop the torque converter from moving forwards out of the gearbox. Then, once you have moved the engine forward, undo the bolts that hold the (remains of the) flexplate to the crankshaft. Reassembly is the reverse, bolt the new flexplate to the crankshaft, move the engine back and put the bellhousing bolts in and bolt the flexplate to the torque converter.