Hmm, yes I think you are right, on an early one if it is immobilised it won't allow diagnostics to connect. Although it is a December 97 car so will be a 98 model and it should work on that (it does on both my 98's anyway). But even if it won't, the EKA can still be entered by plugging in a good door latch and operating the levers in the correct order. That's how I used to have to do it on the Ascot in winter when the keyswitch wouldn't work until I replaced the door latch.

However, I forwarded it to Phil (Holland and Holland) who buys them to restore or break depending on the state of them, in case he was interested. He reckons it has been up for sale for months now, originally at silly money for what it is. We both agree that it is a £500 car at best but the seller is asking for offers and he thinks it is worth far more than that.

Hmm, well it was to Lelystad and back actually but as nobody would know where that was, Amsterdam is the nearest place people will have heard of.

Not even needed. Plug in the Nanocom, enter the EKA and drive it away. I did one recently that didn't even have any keys, all it had was a piece of paper with the EKA written on it. Had it running in 5 minutes......

You don't have any simple faults do you? The RH tail light and number plate lights both come off C1283 at the BeCM but on different pins whereas the LH tail light comes off a different connector even (C1291) so there is nothing common there and, as you say, the ground connections are different too. Are you sure nobody hasn't sawn the back of the car off?

I've known the bulb failed warnings to come up if the bulbholder has a bit of corrosion so the bulb doesn't illuminate instantly but not for 3 to all do it at the same time. The other thing to bear in mind is that the bulb failed warning will come up if that individual feed is drawing too little (bulb blown) or too much (bulb short circuited) current. I found that out when I wanted to run a 21W warning beacon on a wide trailer so connected it to one of the tail light feeds (on UK towing electrics the two tail light circuits are fed separately, left and right). After a few miles, the beacon went out and the bulb blown warning came up on the dash as it was drawing more current then expected. I found that if I switched the lights off and back on again, it would reset until next time it gave the warning. It appears that in that case, once it has given the warning it was switching that circuit off to prevent any wiring being burnt out.

The main engine ground is bolted to the alternator bracket and connects to the RH suspension turret. Corrosion at either end of that will cause it as it doesn't need much resistance to prevent the full starter load being passed. I suspect you'll find one end of that cable is burnt, that is the end with the bad connection.

Plenty on eBay though, https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=WCD000860&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313

The earlier numbers supersede to the WCD000860, the other two (105350 and 105360) are for US models with post cat lambda sensors. So if you get sent one of those, you'll need a couple of bungs (or old lambda sensors) to plug the holes.

Some of the aftermarket ones come in 3 pieces and separate after the cats, they can be changed without dropping the gearbox crossmember. Most come in one piece so you do need to drop the crossmember to get the old one out and the new one in.

I got one for mine from Maltings Off Road (https://maltings4x4store.co.uk/categories/land-rover/range-rover-p38/engine/exhaust-system.html) but the only one they list currently shows the US part number so will likely have the extra holes for the post cat sensors.

Try pulling the starter relay and putting a wire jumper between the 30 and 87 pins (opposite each other), the starter should engage and spin. If it doesn't, check that you have power at the socket where pin 30 goes. If it isn't, it is a fusebox problem, if it is, then a starter or wiring problem. I've seen some starters that have two spade terminals on them and the trigger wire has to go on the correct one, so if there are two, try putting the thin trigger wire on the other one and testing it again. Or it may simply be a break in the trigger wire between fusebox and starter, so with your jumper wire in the fusebox, check that the 12V is getting to the trigger wire at the starter.

What do you get if it is disconnected completely? If there is nothing attached it can't be seeing a short to anywhere. Recirc motors are the same as the other blend motors except they don't have any feedback pot.

I had a look at his site but no mention of the kit he used to do so no idea if he still does them. I've also read through George's write up on rebuilding his. The cost of the kit is more than I would have to pay for a replacement modulator. I did wonder if, as the later Thor modulator already has the stainless washers, I could just get one of those and steal the washers from it? As far as I know the breaking washers is something that only happens in very hot climates, not something we get in the UK, so a used one from a low mileage car should be fine and lets face it, every car in the UK, if not the world, is lower mileage than mine! I've actually got a non-traction control modulator that some idiot had fitted to the 4.0SE I bought last year (well, the part number is only one digit different so it should be OK), so I'll pull that apart for practice....

It's a faulty hose, it has an aneurysm. No different to getting an egg bulge in a tyre cause by internal de-lamination.

If it is a hefty clunk or just a click will tell you what the problem is. A hefty clunk and all dash lights stay on, it is the starter solenoid pulling in but the contacts are burnt so no power gets to the starter motor itself. A hefty clunk and the dash lights go out, means a bad battery connection and a gentle click means the relay is operating but the starter solenoid isn't clicking in. If it isn't the battery connection, it is new starter time.

I'm aware that one of the symptoms of the broken plastic washers in a GEMS ABS modulator is a 'clicky' brake pedal. Now for years my brake pedal squeaked whenever I applied the brakes but a few years ago that stopped and was replaced with a 'clicky' feel. As the braking performance hadn't changed, I put that down to a bit of wear on the pivot between the pedal and the pushrod rather than anything more serious.

Last weekend I drove to Amsterdam and back and experienced strange behaviour. I filled up with LPG in Belgium, then drove to Calais and the first time I applied the brakes the pedal went down much further than normal but coming off the pedal and re-applying the brakes, all was back to normal. Considering I'd just driven 120 miles at a steady 70-75mph without touching the brakes at all, this suggests to me that maybe the O rings inside the modulator are starting to weep slightly. I'm never going to be able to replicate the problem in this country (driving 20 miles without touching the brakes is considered a good run), so could just leave it but I think a modulator replacement is on the cards in the near future.

Hmm, 7 years worth of neglect or bodged repairs to deal with (unless you are very lucky and it comes back with less problems than it went away with). Should be fun to be re-united though.

I've got one for a Range Rover Sport that I think I downloaded for Topix. You have to register but it's free, see https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/vehicle/lookupForm

They are M5 x 16mm flanged head bolts which over here would be dead easy to find in any DIY shop. Metric might be a bit more difficult where you are.....

There's 2 screws on each side, 1 goes into a square captive nut, the other goes into a threaded hole. The square ones fall out when you undo the screw and are a real pig to get back into place and then fall out again when you try to get the screw started. On one car (somebody else's) I put a blob of glue on them to keep them in place but on my car I just left them out. Are you saying you've lost all 4 screws as well as the square nuts?

My fuel gauge is a bit weird too. As I run on LPG it rarely does a lot as I just keep just under 1/4 tank in it for starting and emergency use. However, the pump at my local (cheap) LPG supplier has died so that was going to involve a 30 round mile trip to the next cheapest. So I bunged 30 litres of petrol in it (if it doesn't get used I'll pump it out and use it in the boat before it goes stale). That bought the gauge up to just over the half full mark. Drove 15 miles, the gauge didn't move and the trip computer range hadn't changed either. Filled up with LPG, started the engine and the gauge now says one notch below half full? So it is only changing when not driving, while driving it doesn't move.....

It's the plug that connects to a switch on the clutch pedal of a car with a manual gearbox to turn off the cruise . As an auto doesn't have a clutch pedal it doesn't have a switch so there's nothing to connect it to so it just dangles down below the steering column and above the closing panel above the pedals.

What holiday? Set off Sunday evening, ferry to France, drove to just the other side of Amsterdam was there for 6 hours then drove back to Calais for an overnight stop, ferry this morning and now back home......