No they aren't, the mounting points are different.

Some time ago, well over a year, I needed a new alternator so checked with the usual suspects (Island4x4 and LRDirect) for a 120A AMR2938 for a GEMS and found one of them gave me the option of a Britpart or a Hella . Working on the principle that a dead alternator can stop the car, I ordered the Hella. Fitted it and checked that it was working by putting my meter across the battery and was pleased to see 14.4V. Many months later (recently), I had the ignition switched on but engine not running and after about 30 seconds the dash beeped at me and came up with Alternator Fault. I also noticed no picture of a battery on the dash (but with all the other warning lights that come on with the ignition, it's easy to not notice one that isn't there). But the alternator was still doing what it should and charging the battery at 14.4V. Checked with the Nanocom that the bulb hadn't blown and found that I could make it come on from within the BeCM Outputs menu.

Recently decided to do something about it in case it stopped working and didn't tell me about it. I'd got 3 alternators in the garage but had no idea if any were any good. One was a weird make I've never heard of, one was a 100A version and one was the desired 120A AMR2938. Tried connecting the thin Brown/Yellow wire to the D+ terminal with the alternator body grounded through the rocker cover, turned on the ignition and no picture of a battery on the dash, but there was if I grounded the wire. Concluded the regulator was dead so ordered one of these https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hc-cargo-25072361.html. It arrived within a couple of days and although the box said HC Cargo, the label on the box said it was made by Robert Bosch.....

Fitted it to the dead alternator, bolted it onto the car and with just the D+ wire connected the battery light on the dash came on with the ignition. Went to connect the main power cable to the alternator and got a spark. That shouldn't happen unless one of the diodes in the alternator is short circuit and a quick check with the meter showed it was drawing 6A. Bugger. So took it off again, removed the new regulator and was about to put it back in the box to keep as a spare. Then had a thought. The Hella was sitting there looking at me and a closer look showed that although the label on it said Hella, it was actually a Magneti Marelli, identical to the one that I had just taken apart. So I pulled the cover off the back and found it had the same regulator in it. So fitted the new regulator to the 'Hella', fitted it to the car, turned the ignition on and was happy to see a battery warning light on the dash. Started the car and the battery was charging at 14.4V. At least now if I do have a problem with charging, I feel confident that I'll have a warning light on the dash to tell me about it.

But this isn't the end of it. Nigelbb has been here today as we needed to change one of his front wheel bearings. While he was here, we were playing with his new toy, the Carplay/Android display. While playing he had the ignition on and the dash beeped and came up with Alternator Fault and we noticed that he doesn't have a battery warning light either. He thinks the car has done it in all the 10 years he has owned it but had never noticed no battery warning light. What makes this more interesting is his car is a Thor so has a different alternator but it seems they also suffer the same problem. Interestingly, the only regulator I can find listed under the part numbers for both Thor alternators, are a Hitachi one. I always thought the Thor had a Bosch?

Any chance of getting a nut splitter in there? One of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitter-set/. I've found that once it starts biting into the nut it expands it so you can usually tap it with a hammer and unscrew the nut.

For the joint to the centre section, I just get the angle grinder with a cutting blade out and just cut through the bolts. Sometimes the bolt heads are welded to the flange, but the grinder soon sorts that so you can use standard bolts.

If you have slack in the linkage, the only thing you can do is replace it, there isn't any adjustment. You shouldn't be able to push it up when it is closed unless the screws attaching the glass to the mechanism are loose. Slide the covers off either side and check the screws.

That is my only complaint (other than the crackle when trying to use line in), no instructions. Step daughter asked me how she saves a clip from the dashcam and I have no idea. I have a dedicated dashcam with a red button that marks the current clip so it doesn't get over written and I would assume it has something similar but no idea how to do it. The same with displaying a split screen. At one point it was showing the sat nav map and the title of the music she was streaming, but how we got it into that state we couldn't work out.

If you can get the old ones off to fit the new ones. The adjuster on the drag link and, to a slightly lesser degree, the track rod, usually requires lots of heat, a pair of Stilsons and a very long bar to put on the end.

Island 4x4 or LRDirect. Go for Moog (decent quality aftermarket), Lemforder or anything marked as OEM, which will be Lemforder.

After Nigel showed me his unit last week, I immediately ordered one to go in my step-daughter's Toyota Aygo. I'd promised her something like that when she passed her driving test, which she did on Wednesday, so I installed it. It was £59 with the money off voucher when I got it earlier this week. As well as being able to connect by Bluetooth and FM transmitter, it also has a line out to go into an Aux in socket of your existing stereo has one (which the Aygo does) so I used that. Unfortunately there was a continuous crackle on the audio sounding like the old mobile phone interference you sometimes used to get if a phone was too close to an audio device. I tried a better quality cable than the one supplied but that made no difference so resorted to using the inbuilt FM transmitter. Running Waze on her iPhone and it works perfectly as well as streaming music. Dashcam works well too and it even came with a 56Gb microSD card. Haven't yet tried it for hands free calls or installed the (included) reversing camera but everything else simply does what it says it does.

Don't you have the 'Contact the seller' option? Where are you? I assumed UK. I know there's a setting in eBay for where someone is able to send to overseas (when it is an actual item rather than a service) maybe that has changed recently and he hasn't updated his listing. I know he's done numerous ones for owners in the US and even for one owner in Japan in the past.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404025564146, he replaces the switches on the circuit board and fully checks them before sending them back. You get a shiny new case too. As you have two keys, then it isn't a problem to do one at a time.

The flashing red light on the fob when you put the key in the ignition, is caused by the coil around the ignition lock causing the fob to transmit an unlock code. However, the coil is very fragile and often breaks. In which case you need to manually sync the fobs.

With all doors and tailgate closed, put the key in the lock on the drivers door and turn it to lock, hold there and while holding it there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the red LED flashes faster. Release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, etc. Fob should then be synced and you can then do the same for the other one.

I've never had a problem with them shearing off, although sometimes the stud unscrews from the manifold rather than the nut coming off the stud. Douse the nut and the end of the stud (at the top of the manifold flange) with Plus Gas first and you shouldn't have a problem. If you want to replace the studs, they are standard M10.

nigelbb wrote:

What is the URL? A copy of his old website should still be accessible on the Wayback Machine just like you can access all the useful guides on rr.net that were deleted by the owners https://web.archive.org

www.p38webshop.co.uk

Afraid I've no idea what the fault or fix is, but a logged error of one sensor short to another is the symptom.

Unfortunately Marty managed to crash his own website and hasn't got around to writing a replacement yet but his old one did detail the problem.

The ABS system does two self checks, the first when you initially turn the ignition on when it checks for the correct resistance on each wheel sensor, the second once you start moving when it checks for the same speed from each sensor. If it comes on when starting the engine and not with the ignition, that would suggest the battery voltage is dropping during cranking. Although that usually brings on a Gearbox Fault not ABS Fault.

I remember Marty saying something about ECU faults on the Wabco D system as he was offering a repair service on them. I assume you've done the C to D upgrade as a pre-99 car would have originally have had the Wabco C system with 2 wheel TC rather than the D with 4 wheel TC.

Nicely done. Just what I would expect a P38 on EAS to be capable of doing with a driver that knows what he is doing. Post that video on .net to show some on there that you don't need huge wheels, a 4" lift and coil springs

I had a problem where the cable had slipped so was moving the latch but not quite far enough. I was able to get a length of 5mm steel rod up from underneath onto the cone that was poking through and while someone else heaved on the release, I tapped the rod up with a hammer.

4.5k in 4 months? I'm going to have to keep an eye on my record. I took mine in for MoT at the end of August and noticed I'd only done 22k since the previous test. Previous years had been over 30k......

The switch is under the RH latch, so if that one is releasing, it will show as open even if the LH latch is still closed and the bonnet won't open. Sounds like your LH latch isn't releasing.

Nice one, how long did it take you to get round the Antwerp ring road? It usually takes at least an hour longer than Google maps says it will. Otherwise, Belgium has a lot going for it despite what people say, good beer, good chocolate and cheap LPG.....

Yes, 5W T5 capless.