It's a faulty hose, it has an aneurysm. No different to getting an egg bulge in a tyre cause by internal de-lamination.

If it is a hefty clunk or just a click will tell you what the problem is. A hefty clunk and all dash lights stay on, it is the starter solenoid pulling in but the contacts are burnt so no power gets to the starter motor itself. A hefty clunk and the dash lights go out, means a bad battery connection and a gentle click means the relay is operating but the starter solenoid isn't clicking in. If it isn't the battery connection, it is new starter time.

I'm aware that one of the symptoms of the broken plastic washers in a GEMS ABS modulator is a 'clicky' brake pedal. Now for years my brake pedal squeaked whenever I applied the brakes but a few years ago that stopped and was replaced with a 'clicky' feel. As the braking performance hadn't changed, I put that down to a bit of wear on the pivot between the pedal and the pushrod rather than anything more serious.

Last weekend I drove to Amsterdam and back and experienced strange behaviour. I filled up with LPG in Belgium, then drove to Calais and the first time I applied the brakes the pedal went down much further than normal but coming off the pedal and re-applying the brakes, all was back to normal. Considering I'd just driven 120 miles at a steady 70-75mph without touching the brakes at all, this suggests to me that maybe the O rings inside the modulator are starting to weep slightly. I'm never going to be able to replicate the problem in this country (driving 20 miles without touching the brakes is considered a good run), so could just leave it but I think a modulator replacement is on the cards in the near future.

Hmm, 7 years worth of neglect or bodged repairs to deal with (unless you are very lucky and it comes back with less problems than it went away with). Should be fun to be re-united though.

I've got one for a Range Rover Sport that I think I downloaded for Topix. You have to register but it's free, see https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/vehicle/lookupForm

They are M5 x 16mm flanged head bolts which over here would be dead easy to find in any DIY shop. Metric might be a bit more difficult where you are.....

There's 2 screws on each side, 1 goes into a square captive nut, the other goes into a threaded hole. The square ones fall out when you undo the screw and are a real pig to get back into place and then fall out again when you try to get the screw started. On one car (somebody else's) I put a blob of glue on them to keep them in place but on my car I just left them out. Are you saying you've lost all 4 screws as well as the square nuts?

My fuel gauge is a bit weird too. As I run on LPG it rarely does a lot as I just keep just under 1/4 tank in it for starting and emergency use. However, the pump at my local (cheap) LPG supplier has died so that was going to involve a 30 round mile trip to the next cheapest. So I bunged 30 litres of petrol in it (if it doesn't get used I'll pump it out and use it in the boat before it goes stale). That bought the gauge up to just over the half full mark. Drove 15 miles, the gauge didn't move and the trip computer range hadn't changed either. Filled up with LPG, started the engine and the gauge now says one notch below half full? So it is only changing when not driving, while driving it doesn't move.....

Bolt wrote:

Very generic questions.
Annoying. But clever.....

It's a new one on me, I've come across plenty of AI generated answers to questions (almost always very vague or even wrong) on the dark side. All I do with those is delete them and ban the sender, but this is a first.

It's the plug that connects to a switch on the clutch pedal of a car with a manual gearbox to turn off the cruise . As an auto doesn't have a clutch pedal it doesn't have a switch so there's nothing to connect it to so it just dangles down below the steering column and above the closing panel above the pedals.

What holiday? Set off Sunday evening, ferry to France, drove to just the other side of Amsterdam was there for 6 hours then drove back to Calais for an overnight stop, ferry this morning and now back home......

Almost certainly. Noticed that the username doesn't show up in bold and he is shown as Guest not Member. Not in the list of registered members and a guest can only read threads, not post them, so has got around that limitation somehow.

I found that pie dish option some time ago and as mine were secure but looked like something had been nibbling at them, was going to do it. I even printed out the full size template so I could cut them in the right place. Then, while helping Marty clear out his workshop, we found a pair that weren't rotten, so they went in the boot of my car rather than in the skip. Not fitted them yet but intend giving them a coat of Hammerite before doing it.....

No need to ask the same question in different threads, assuming you are human and not AI of course.....

There's 3 trimmer pots on each side along the top of the instrument cluster main pcb (unclip the translucent cover to get to them). On one side they deal with tacho and fuel gauge readings while the other side deals with speedo and fuel gauge. VR2 deals with the Temp gauge reading.

If you have a look here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/898-calibrated-speedos (post #6) I detailed how to get your speedo and tacho reading absolutely spot on if you have the patience......

Yes, I suppose I am influenced by some of the lesser educated over on the dark side. I have to keep my answers to a level that doesn't cause the profanity filter to kick in too, re-inventing the wheel springs to mind. Martin has done it and documented it all but he insists on trying to do thing differently and it is never going to work. Quite why he is so hung up on the tacho when he doesn't even have a means of connecting his gearbox to his transfer case is beyond me....

GKN should be fine but, as you say, modern materials mean they won't last as long as original, so you may as well get the cheapest and expect it to last half as long as OE.

My rear mudshields were both falling off as the bracket had rotted away and the shields weren't brilliant either, so before the MoT, I spent ages getting them secure. My MoT man looked at it and said that he would have just taken them off and binned them. It's not like I do any serious mud plugging so they aren't really needed.

Looking at the ETM, the fuel gauge wire (Green/Black) goes directly from BeCM to gauge sender with no connections between. ETM also says that the resistance should be 19 Ohms when full, at 175 Ohms it brings on the low fuel warning light and when empty it is at 270 Ohms. There is an adjustment in the cluster (a small trimmer pot) so you could substitute a resistor for the sender and make sure the gauge reads what it should at set resistances.

Common pitfalls are ignorance and a lack of maintenance. I'm writing this in a hotel in Calais before getting the ferry back having driven to Amsterdam and back yesterday in a 27 year old P38 with (now) 537,000 miles on it.

If not AI, in the US where everyone thinks they know better than the people that designed it. As standard it was the best off road at the time of production and can still hold its own against more modern machinery if the driver knows what he is doing.