I think that's why he needs some more pictures, to push it out again.....

Some of the ones from Rutland Rover's post in the LRO show thread would be good if he doesn't have a problem with you using them.

Serves you right for taking the seat out, you'd be blissfully ignorant otherwise. Panel under the glovebox drops out in seconds, 3 plastic studs and out it comes. I had mine out to duct tape up the joints in the heater ducting (that must be a first, using duct tape on ducts!) as the foam had fallen out years ago and most of the air from the blowers was coming out of the joints and finding it's way onto the passengers feet rather than going through the heater box. Maybe you've got a leak allowing rainwater into the ducting and it's dripping out of the joints so nowt to do with the AC at all.

I'd do a compression test if you haven't already. Two adjacent pots with oily plugs could be a sign of a blow between the two. Oil could be valve stem seal issue but could also point to gummed oil control rings, especially if it hasn't had regular oil changes in the past. BUT, if it was burning oil I'd expect to see the HC figure go through the roof as that shows unburnt Hydrocarbons and there would be loads.

I'd agree with Sloth on the LPG injectors being crossed, as that would cause one bank to go one way and the other the other way. It's not particularly relevant at the moment but could explain the rough running on gas. Where are the injector spuds fitted, ideally they should be fitted next to the petrol injectors, then there's no chance of them being wrong, but if they are fitted higher up, just beneath the join with the plenum chamber, then the ports do cross over. It might also be an idea to clean the plugs and then try running it on gas to see if they foul up the same as on petrol.

No idea, I always assumed it was on the inside as it cleared as soon as I started the engine but it could be on the outside.

I suggest you drop Simon an email telling him that you've been having random electrical problems for some time and finally found it was down to him. Could be a chuckle to see what he says.......

Any old core will do, I just need to compare the angle and position of the connection. It looks right but you can't really tell from pictures. Not even sure I need it, if I left the car for a few minutes in cold weather the windscreen would mist up above the demister outlets. That made me think there might be a slight leak from the heater core that was causing it.

Nice one, amazing what can be done when two of you get your heads together. When you do change the heater matrix, I'll have the old one. I've got the brand new Nissens one that came from Amazon for the princely sum of £7.50 but, despite what someone said over on the other forum, I want to compare it with a genuine Land Rover one to make sure it really is the correct one.

STFT's may be all over the shop but I bet it will be below 3.5% CO no matter how bad it is. My tester didn't bother testing mine last time as he said that if the emissions were far enough out for it to fail it wouldn't be running!

I agree, it should be able to pass the petrol test but with the LPG kit installed it shouldn't need to. If it's been mostly run on gas you've no idea on the state of the injectors or fuel pressure regulator if they've been dormant for a long time. I spent ages getting mine to run reasonably well on petrol just in case I ever needed to use it (although the petrol that had been in the tank for over a year didn't help).

O rings were shot so coolant poured out if the hoses were connected, so I just put a pair of O rings in it.

Same as on anything else. Disconnect the two hoses that go through the bulkhead to the heater matrix and join them together with something (a couple of plumbing 90 degree bends had been used on my SE when I first got it).

Ooh, I'll do mine then. I thought my touchscreen was faulty as I needed to poke it quite firmly. As well as showing the correct ABS sensors, it may also show the correct blower fan. I changed my drivers side (RH) fan for one without a sloppy bearing and immediately got the book symbol. Nano told me that the LH fan had a stop failure yet when I looked at what was happening, the 'new' RH fan is not giving any feedback to the HEVAC and the LH one was working properly. So it was telling fibs about that too.

I'd say use the 46D too but with the strength of the Euro against the pound it might be worth getting the whole lot done in one place. My engine was done here http://www.v8developments.co.uk/workshop/reliner/index.shtml. It's so far done 35,000 miles (in 20 months) and is running better than it ever has. It really looked pretty when I picked it up too. Marty has been talking about getting a couple of engines done too so it might be worth seeing about a bulk discount.

gordonjcp wrote:

Could it be a faulty injector simulator, leaving the fuel and gas injectors on?

Unlikely, it would be running so stupidly rich you'd smell it and the emissions would be through the roof.

Flowchart from the testers manual is here http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/730_newnoncat.pdf . Also, if it is presented running on LPG, it does not need a full CAT test so it doesn't need to have cats fitted (see http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_710.htm ). It may be that as it has an LPG conversion on it, the cats have been gutted so are only empty boxes.

However, running it with no MAF would make it drop into a failsafe default which will be running rich. The Titania sensors show 5V when lean and 0V when rich but some generic readers invert the lambda sensor results so they display a comparable output to a Zirconia sensor with 0V being lean, while others just change the voltage. So, depending on the reader, 0V might be lean but might be rich. Better to hang a multimeter on the output so you can see what it is actually doing. Sounds like you've got one lazy sensor, or the heater isn't doing it's job, so only gives a reading when it gets heated enough by the exhaust gases.

What are you doing testing the emissions on petrol? It should be tested on the fuel it is presented for test running on so if it is running on LPG it gets tested to the LPG limits which are 3.5% CO, 1200 ppm HC and no lambda check.

This is the pipes and brackets used on the later layout.

Bracket 14 secures the hose to the hub which you probably have anyway. The bracket without a part number (but with bolt 9 going through it) is the one that you could see in Tony's picture that has the hose and ABS sensor wire going through it and is bolted to the lower part of the chassis. Bracket 6 (ANR5918 on the LH side and ANR5919 on the RH side) bolts to the upper part of the chassis rail, while bracket 3 (ANR5917) bolts to the body. So it isn't as straightforward a job to upgrade it as it might appear as the fixing points may well not exist on the chassis and body.

How long is long?.....

Ray is in Canada Spriggy so costs of a replacement engine are significantly higher. I can't open the csv files so can't comment on the readings but cracked exhaust manifolds will allow air to be drawn in before the O2 sensors. That will create false readings suggesting to the engine ECU that the engine is running lean. So it will pump more fuel in to get it right again which will explain the fuel consumption. Running rich will also make the engine gutless so it could be that they are the cause of all the problems.

I would suggest that the oil leaks on the heads are not from the head gaskets but from the rocker cover gaskets as there are no oilways at the front of the heads. There's waterways but not oilways. Leaking from the coolant pressure cap may be nothing more serious than a worn cap and a replacement cap is cheap enough (they are the same as 5 series BMWs making them easy to get hold of too).

With a sequential if it won't run right on petrol, it won't run right on gas either. My SE did just the same, it would start then immediately die. I found that if I kept pumping the throttle to keep the revs up, eventually it would idle normally. Swapped the MAF sensor with the one from the ex-plod and it was back to normal. The GEMS isn't as fussy about pattern MAF sensors but ideally you want a genuine one.

Not sure this shows much more than Tony's pic but crawling underneath the car with a digital SLR in hand before going to work certainly confused the postman. The hose from the caliper and ABS sensor cable go to a bracket on the lower part of the chassis, then a short link pipe (which on mine is now in Kunifer as the original steels ones rotted away so the shape will be different to original) to another bracket at the top of the chassis. From there, there's another short hose up to the body where it connects to the hard line from the modulator.

We had Discoverys at work and someone tipped one over (combination of taking a slope at the wrong angle and a 10m pneumatic mast attached at gutter height). H&S manager got involved and decided that anyone that drove one of them needed to do an off road driving course. So I got sent to Solihull to do a one day course in a Disco. It had rained constantly for about a week before I went and the first thing I saw when I got there was this huge, rutted, mud hill. My initial thought was that you'd need at least a Defender on massive wheels and mud tyres to get up that. Half an hour later I was driving up it in a bog standard, TD5 Disco on standard wheels and road tyres. The instructor actually said that he thought the P38 was the best of the bunch but even the Freelander was far more capable off road than he expected. Admittedly most of it is down to technique which seemed to be 2nd gear, low ratio, for just about everything. The only thing you can't do with an auto is the recovery after you've stalled it going uphill (foot on brake pedal, select low ratio reverse gear, clutch out, foot off brake pedal so it is hanging against compression and flick the starter. Engine fires up and you creep backwards down the hill ready for another go).

I wouldn't mind having a go at an RTV trial in mine but it would need to be a gentle one if it's after it gets it's long awaited respray.