Excellent. Good luck.
Just to back up the other comments. My 38 in the UK lunched it's engine. Found a replacement and my (then) local LR guy fitted it.
I was told to use petrol only for a week afterwards, until things settled down. In that time I did commuting, 40 miles each way over the Derbyshire hills and a good haul to Twickenham from Cheshire.
Took it back and there was no need to change anything. Good as gold when we switched to LPG.
So yeah, be patient.
That is a reassuring bit of info GeorgeB. I have paid special attention to all advice and printed much of it out. Especially noted LPGc's early piece about Autocal but could do with a simple idiots guide when it comes to that. I have studied the Zavoli Tech Manual page 32 Autocalibration but will want some advice about 'loose' ends. For example, when autocalibration is finished are the settings automatically saved in the ECU ? Since asking this, friend in UK explained that Calibration is stored in ECU - as far as the set up technology is concerned I assume one has to put in various 'knowns' before pressing the Autocal or is the system clever enough to read the type of injectors, reducer etc ? It also says carburation may need changing after Autocal as well, another hurdle I know the configuration can be saved for future use. Will be a relief if i ever get it running as it has done for ten years without a problem !
Hi folks - LPGc in particular ! have taken good note of all advice but when it comes to Autocal - starting on petrol - I see it is necessary to run at a particular RPM and not make any change on the accelerator as the ECU carries out its calibration - the question is - what starting RPM should one begin with ?
The software will tell you via a popup dialogue box once you enter the programme in real life. From memory it's fixed rpm somewhere within the range of 2800 to 3100.
It won't let you proceed with the calibration until you've stabilised the rpm at whatever it wants anyway. Takes a steady foot and avoidance of the temptation to "follow" the rpm as it changes while the calibration is happening.
Thanks Ob - complicated but easy when you know how !
You got it going yet Super4?
Well yes and no - I didn't want to trouble anyone until I had done my homework properly but I could do with some clever thinking. I knew I had to run on petrol for a good 'tuning' before playing with the LPG. But, it got to the point that the engine stalled under slow running and load up hill - hot outside here (38 degrees typically) so with nothing to lose I stopped under a bridge and bravely carried out a recal (had the laptop in the car) Lo and behold - obeying the on screen instruction about RPM - not moving foot on accelerator - it had finished in a minute or so and said complete. Immediately, the engine behaved itself and ran reasonably on Lpg to get me home up the hill. Also, ran ok on petrol. Is it possible that it was so far out of tune on the petrol side that it just wasn't able to readjust ? So it now runs on LPG and petrol more or less ok but I still have the original problem which caused me to start messing with it. This is - starts ok when cold on petrol - changes to LPG as specified in my set up - but soon sounds as if not quite right in the smooth running department. This seems related to temperature because after some hour or so driving there are moments where under load and slow travel (10 mph) up hill it just does not produce any power and despite jumping on the accelerator, to gun it to change down, it just gives up. At higher revs on motorway not such a problem but lack of power on hills. I'm still waiting for the set of new ignition leads so can't be sure that they are not the problem. But I also wonder about other bits - what effect would a faulty accelerator potentiometer have for example. I mean they wear out on your old radios and amplifiers so ten years in a roasting engine can't be good. So to simplify - seems ok when cold but as engine heats up problems begin but come and go so its not like a major failure - any suggestions ?
Rough running when hot, and dying completely in some cases, is often a symptom of a failing crank position sensor. Usual way to test is to carry some cold water and give it a good soaking to cool it off when it starts playing up. If it then runs OK, that's the problem.
yes - I read something about that on the forum - sounds very possible - but quite hard to get at isn't it - in my old age I'm developing a horror of anything that means getting down or underneath - back still twinging after kicking the front wheels off from underneath - but I think it is a good idea and will try - bear in mind that everything is 38 degrees so water won't be that cold !!
Saw something about damaged teeth position on crankshaft but if it is the sensor is it just a simple matter of bolting in a new one ?
If you had any damaged teeth, the problem would be there all the time and not just when it gets hot so pretty unlikely. Swapping the sensor is simple enough as it does just bolt in.
Thanks both - much appreciated ! Just for interest my old Willys jeep (£85) when I was 17 started to cut out at traffic lights and after loads of searching and taking apart I found the cylinder head had a small crack in it which opened when hot - of course the good old side valve engine cylinder head was pretty easy to get off but it was pure chance I found the crack -hardly visible and not very obvious for a new boy !
I only mention this in case it helps when you are having problems with your Willys jeeps !!!!!!
By the way - this is my second Jeep - this was a Hotchkiss -Willys 'acquired' in France - only 5000 kilometers on the clock - had 24v electrics (fitted for radio) so I had to change back to the 6 volt system- In this picture I am driving Jim Cox to his Wedding in Germany - marrying a German girl seemed to require a number of 'best men' .....................
super4 wrote:
Hi folks - LPGc in particular ! have taken good note of all advice but when it comes to Autocal - starting on petrol - I see it is necessary to run at a particular RPM and not make any change on the accelerator as the ECU carries out its calibration - the question is - what starting RPM should one begin with ?
The software will tell you the rpm range, aim for an rpm in the middle of that range. Different AEB systems use slightly different rpm ranges.
Just a query. Still waiting for new set ignition leads - P38 running more or less as it should on LPG or Petrol but still have the missing and lack of power when hot. So am in process of ordering Crankcase sensor and Throttle potentiometer (this for good luck - tested it with ohmmeter and it seems consistent but this was when cool off engine). By the way this part is no longer supplied by Rover and official sites but is still on UK order From MG-Rover-COM new £23.99
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/NEW-LAND-ROVER-TPS-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-FREELANDER-V6-02-05-SLD100080-/311478731971?hash=item48859444c3:g:C2gAAOSwPcVVybV0
For the Crankcase sensor ERR 6119 (hoping it is right) what I want to ask is would you order a 'factory original' at slightly higher price or go for the aftermarket ones like Island 4x4 http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/crankshaft-position-sensor-disco1-lucas-err6119-p-9787.html
which are not a lot of money ? By the way, these parts come up on ebay USA at horrendous prices -like 160 dollars !!
The CPS is ERR6119.
I'm not sure that the 'factory original' is only slightly more expensive- they look around £170 ex vat.
Alternates are £18 to £50 ex.
The Lucas one looks OK. Nice to have the Prince of Darkness on board somewhere!
Thanks for confirming the part - I can't get at it yet so need to be sure. I did find this in a 'genuine' Land Rover box at £40 or so but they vary considerably in price around the web http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-crank-sensor-discovery-v8-crank-sensor-err6119-genuine-landrover-/271946056721
Well, I'd go for that one then. Very cheap for genuine LR- snap it up!
Super, I think I've got one of those cps sensors in my garage ( genuine).
I'll check tomorrow and drop you a pm,, no use to me, your welcome to it..
That is very kind - but I've just ordered it on ebay - the cost was £39 which I gather is not bad for a LR original. - would be nice to have saved some money because 'A place in the sun' has plenty of sun but not a lot of lolly ! I'm crossing fingers that it is the cps that is at fault but the throttle position sensor could also be playing up - took it off - tested with ohmmeter - sprayed with WD40 but afterwards found some odd differences in the running - like the engine was 'knocking'. My problems all seem engine speed related. Because parts take so long to get here from UK it is not a 'quick' fix.