Asking for the father-in-law

He has a hot start problem on his 2.5 diesel.

Starts no problem on a morning. Can drive a mile or so to the shops, come back out and it'll start again no problem. If he drives much further and the engine gets any hotter, when he goes to start it again, it takes anywhere between 5 and 10 seconds to fire up.

He's asking me cause clearly he thinks as we both have p38's, that I would know. lol.

He says he's looked it up and it's something to do with the injector pump and it's going to be anywhere between £700 and £1500 for a new one. He then presents me with a potential fix from the other forum regarding this kit.

He says he's happy to bodge it with the kit as he doesn't do many miles at all, which he doesn't. I'm not sure why he even has a car.

Will this work or is there another solution?

Thanks

Smiler will jump in as our newly self-crowned diesel god, but from what I've read, the hot start problem happens when the timing chains stretch and the FIP wears. The hot start bodge/ fix that turns glow plugs on even when engine is warm is a sort-of solution that people seem to think helps. For 30 quid, not a bad punt.
Other solution is new chains and refurbed FIP. Probably a bit expensive for a rarely used car.

Tweaking the FIP to adjust the timing and take out the retarded timing caused by the stretched chain is the other fix. From what I've read, it involves turning the FIP towards the engine a smidgeon although that's about all I can tell you as I wouldn't know a FIP if one jumped out of the undergrowth and bit me.

My self god-like proclamation only lasts for 24 hrs each time.

Anyway, for the usage of the vehicle the hot-start fix kit is probably the most cost-effective fix.

Diving into timing chains etc... means removing a lot of stuff to get to it (all the radiators, rocker cover, timing covers) which then have the potential to leak in the future. You need timing/locking tools to set the static timing of crank to pump to camshaft. You then need a special DTI that inserts into the end of the pump and then much like an ignition distributor, you slacken the mounting bolts and rotate the whole pump assembly. In this case you rotate it until you get the correct reading on the DTI as per the spec for the engine (don't know it off the top of my head). The DTI measures the displacement of the plunger shaft within the pump. The pump contains its own cam disc and as you rotate the pump body you are moving the plunger shaft about the cam lobes, much like the points in an old dizzy.

I do now quite fancy playing with Martys spare diesel lump... :)

Thanks a lot fellas. 30quid fix it is then

Fitted the Hot start fix kit for the father in law today.

Works fine in case anybody else comes across the same problem.