Hi guys.....that was quick! I fitted the repaired bcem and she ran great, took her for a run and stuff great, 3 weeks of bliss....well 2 flat batterys (new fuse box and battery fitted) and now battery went flat again and when charged now says "keycode lockout" again.
I have seriously spent more time and money on this car than any other, any advice guys ? Burn it ? I am getting so low on this car now, shes so so nice as well.

KeyCode Lockout will come up if it was locked when the battery went flat and has now been charged/changed. Depending on the year, you have to wait 10 or 30 minutes before it changes to Engine Immobilised, press remote of enter EKA code. If the battery has gone flat while it was locked, then you'll need to enter the EKA as the fob will have lost sync.

It dos not seem to want to accept the eka mate, tried but no go ! Would bcem syncmate do it ?

She is a 2000 W

No, syncmate won't do it.. that will just resync engine ecu and BECM.

If you can't enter the EKA then could be a dodgy microswitch in the door latch, chafed wire etc...

If you had a Nanocom, then you could (on later ones) enter the EKA and disarm the BECM (again, after KEYCODE LOCKOUT has gone) via the OBD port which would bypass any dodgy latch issues

So basicly i could just go via obd and enter code......would it work on mine being a 200 ? And anyone near me with it ?

Im in Portsmouth

That should work (unless it's gone into complete lockout again). If you know the EKA then on a 2000 then Nanocom should do it.

You can also read the input status of the microswitches to see if one is faulty.

£500 for nanocom

So monday im home, try leave it 30 minutes and code again ? Or new door switch cause i cant afford nonocom, spent so much on this car and it wont go anywhere ! Use to love it not so sure anymore its just so unreliable.

would the guide Orangebean put up on Gilberts thread about shorting the door wires not work?

What's your postcode?

PO1 5AT mate are you near me ? I love this car just at my wits end !

If anyone can help i am happy to pay fuel/time etc, always here to help anyone if needs be in any way that I can.
If anyone needs my mobile message me, seems a shame after all the time and money I have put into this one to let her go now.

I'm over Romsey way - I can pop down if you can cover the fuel. We can enter the EKA via my nanocom and test your door latch switches, though one or more is probably at fault. Marty is the man to speak to about a replacement - but we can get it going in the meantime.

I'm probably busy all of tomorrow and Tuesday evening, but any other weekday I'm usually free in the evenings or next weekend any time.

Try this. it wrked for Gilbert.

Orangebean wrote:

Found this when wandering around the web. Seems too good to be true (except for driving latch motors directly of course) and apart from the poster can't see anyone who has confirmed, but FWIW
How to disarm the alarm...... I have discovered a way to override the range rover alarm system. I recently had the unpleasurable experience of the transmitter not responding while the vehicle was armed in the super locking mode. So the first thing I tried was the EKA procedure.....It did not work, in fact all it did was open the driver's door and trigger the alarm. All of the other doors including the rear hatch remained super locked. I attempted to start the vehicle and got a display on the dash that said "ENGINE IMMOBILIZED". I tried to resync the transmitter and that didn't do any good. After about an hour of trying to start the truck I got fed up and took of the driver's door panel to have a look at the wiring. I found a harness that comes from the actuator and plugs into the door control module; it has seven wires in it. Orange w/ black actuator motor Pink w/ black actuator motor Blue w/ red alarm arm/ alarm disarm Green w/ red alarm disarm Purple w/ white doors unlock Orange w/ white Black ground Grounding the blue/red wire momentarily arms the alarm and locks the doors. Grounding the blue/red wire a second time activates the super locking mode. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is armed will trigger (panic) the alarm. Grounding the blue/red wire when the alarm has been triggered will silence the horn and stop the parking lights from flashing. I discovered that if you ground the blue/red wire & the green/red wire at the same time it disarms the security system even if it is in super locking mode, the immobilizer is also disarmed and allows the vehicle to be started. Grounding the green/red wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state locks the doors without arming the alarm. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state unlocks the doors. My actuator was unplugged when I tested my new findings.

That will only work when the EKA has been disabled, as it was on the car Gilbert was working on. All that does is emulate the key and CDL position switches, nothing more. On a vehicle/BECM expecting the EKA input, you would need to emulate those switches by grounding the wires in the correct order according to your EKA code.

I did exactly that for weeks every time I wanted to start my old P38 with a broken door latch, before getting a replacement.

Sloth wrote:

I'm over Romsey way - I can pop down if you can cover the fuel. We can enter the EKA via my nanocom and test your door latch switches, though one or more is probably at fault. Marty is the man to speak to about a replacement - but we can get it going in the meantime.

I'm probably busy all of tomorrow and Tuesday evening, but any other weekday I'm usually free in the evenings or next weekend any time.
Mate covering your fuel would be a pleasure if you were able to come down and help me, I am seriously at my wits end, I have never had any car like it lol and I know that I am so close to the " sorted" car because I have done everything that I could, what about Monday evening? Fuel money and whatever mate you say what it costs and money is here.

I don't know where people get £500 for a Nanocom from?

Looking on the BBS website - it's usually just over £300 direct from the manufacturer...

As Sloth mentioned - the text OB copied/pasted and that I then annotated as to what it ACTUALLY does, was someone who 'got lucky' with absolutely NO understanding of how the system works.

The P38 security system isn't rocket science to understand - there's no transponders, RFID, or any of the fancy stuff the newer vehicles use... the remote fob is PURELY RF driven, which yes has issues - but these have been covered time and time again with symptoms (battery drain being the biggest) and various fixes from unhooking the RF receiver, to adding a second fob/relay to switch the RF receiver on/off, to replacing the RF receiver with the upgraded version.

The door side of things is purely down to 3 microswitches - 2 of which are used in the locking/unlocking, EKA, and all that.

Granted, I'm more electronics biased, and I spent the money on a Gen3 receiver the first time mine went flat from RF interference... but the system is REALLY not that difficult to research, understand how it works, and make sure you're locking/remote system is up to scratch and working.

I left my P38 for 6 weeks when I was away working last year, and came back to it and it unlocked on the fob and started straight up. Surely I can't be the ONLY one with a P38 who has one that works as it should, without having to disable everything in fear that it will shit itself. The ONLY thing switched off on mine is the passive immobiliser, and that's because the coil around the ignition is faulty, and I got annoyed with having to press the remote button every time it timed out and re-immobilised. But when I get around to replacing the passive immobiliser coil, I'll switch that back on too.

You say it won't accept the EKA, are you sure you're entering it correctly?

Marty, you're not the only one, I've only had to use the EKA about 3 times in 7 years and I've only got one key too (which everyone says is asking for trouble).