Orangebean wrote:
K Seal or one of it's cousins would be my bet. Did I miss a picture somewhere BPSM?
Definitely non-ferrous?
I'm still thinking K Seal. No real brass in cooling systems any more. Rads are aluminium, Water pumps have ball bearings.
i'll get a magnet next time i'm out there.
I'd be willing to bet that's K Seal or some similar additive.
To be fair to it, I put it in the green one's original engine and it did stop it swallowing water. The rad cap looked exactly like that. Actually came across that rad cap on the weekend.
Looks like K Seal to me too. Time to give the whole cooling system a good back flush if someone has put that in there. Back flushing heater matrix is easy enough and I suspect you'll be surprised at just how much crap will come out. Also make sure the air bleed nipple on top of the rad, the hose from it and the small hole into the header tank are completely clear too or you'll never be able to properly bleed the cooling system.
ok. Might be best to just flush it all then.
What's best/correct procedure? Searched google but throws up all sorts
Heater is dead easy, just take the two hoses off that go through the bulkhead, attach a hosepipe to the return and turn the tap on. Don't go bonkers with it though or you could create more leaks if you try and blast it through too hard. To do the engine your best bet is to clamp the two heater pipes and put your hosepipe where the top hose would connect. That way you will backflush the block and the rad or you might want to do the two separately so anything in the block isn't pushed into the rad. All you are doing is pushing water through in the opposite direction to the normal flow and hopefully flushing out anything in there that shouldn't be.
So to do heater core on it's own, undo pipes 10 and 12 and connect hosepipe to 12. Go that. Straight forward as OB said.
To do block on it's own, clamp 10 and 12, undo pipes 6 and 3 and send water up through 3 to come back out of 6?
To do radiator on its own, take thermostat off bottom and send water down hose 6?
Thought you had a Thor?!
Flushing...
Heater core: feed from 22, out from 21
Block: in from top hose hole, out from water pump. Block off 21 and 22, pull off other random connectors and let water flow out
Rad:feed from 12, out from well the top hose hole really
Edit- pay special individual interest, as Gilbertd says to 16 and its little hole that goes into expansion tank
shit. My bad. wrong diagram. As i was saying. lol
When doing block thermostat would be closed so just any other connections before radiator will do to let water out? And then the radiator is in from 12 out from 5.
Got it. Cheers :-)
And if by chance while doing block water comes out of top of radiator, then that means thermostat is stuck open and i need a new 'un?
Scratching head....?
If you're popping all those hoses on and off, you may as well just drop the thermostat in a pan of water with a handy cooking thermometer and see when it starts to open and when it's fully open.
Closed is when the large valve at the bottom hose is.... closed and valve to bypass (centre top) is open.
Open is when the large valve at bottom hose is open and valve to bypass (centre top) is closed
While you have the stat off then you'll also be able to check that it doesn't have the same moulding fault that Sloths had highlighted in the other thread I linked to.
Just scanning this post and saw your lpg tee off, I’m surprised that doesn’t air lock as it’s so high, if you cut back the aluminium pipe ( flow ) at the bulk head you can elbow it across the back of engine, I bought the elbows 19mm/16mm on eBay and ran mine through the reducer before the heater, can’t say I’ve noticed any difference in cabin temperature and cured my air lock problems I used to have, I also stuck a 16mm bleed valve in to make it even easier to bleed..
Oh my god. You couldn't make it up!!!!
Just gone out to begin my flushing job and found water on bottom of radiator, a bit on thermostat and looking up, some on the bottom of the fan. Feels ever so slightly sticky and tastes a bit sweet so i assume it's coolant.
Little leak out of radiator bleed hose. I've tightened that and dried everything off. Will see what happens.
Can't believe the irony. Talking about poor heat and flushing the cooling system and then suddenly the radiator springs a leak? Surely not!
Radiator looks in decent nick from what i can see. Took fan cover off and had a look inside and looks relatively new. That probably means nowt though.
Proves you've flushed out the K Seal though. It would have sealed that leak otherwise!
Pop the grille off and give the rad matrix (bits you can see anyway) a shot with the hose to wash out any mud and crud that's resting in there.
Don't use an air line though- did that on my old one and filled the entire engine bay with dust
i've not flushed anything yet. Was gonna do it but then found a leak.
Not gonna faff about flushing it if radiators leaking. Might aswell get a new one and do it then.
As i say, there was a leak from bleed hose. tightened that and it's stopped. I've dried it all and i'll see if it returns. Might have just been that.
Alrighty then! Heater core flushed. Got quite a bit of rubbish out.
Started her back up and first of all no lpg and no heat at all. Clearly an airlock so i gave the throttle a bit of gravy and that seemed to shift it. Heater blows ridiculously hot now which is what i expected. Checked coolant temperature with computer and that's sitting nicely at 91.
I imagine that's not the end of it as i'll need to let it cool down and top it off again.
The little bleed pipe on top of the radiator that you're meant to take off and blow through, Rave says if it's not cleared of coolant you might get airlocks. When i take the pipe off, the radiator pisses out. How is that pipe meant to stay clear of coolant if the radiator keeps filling it back up?
It's designed to do that! Coolant pissing out of nipple is a good sign. means it's got to top of rad.
Put your finger over it while you blow out the pipe, then pop pipe back on.
Watch for initially burps of coolant from that little hole at top of expansion bottle, which should settle down into a stream when all is well.