In short, no there isn't any other way to find directions out what key you currently have. Even if you got the lockset barcode from LR, you can then get that translated into the fob code that programs into the BECM, but as that's just the start ID for the lockset, it won't narrow down what actual key number you have.
Next time you are over this way, I'll try my checker on it and see what it comes back with
Hi I am new on here, have a problem syncing my key. It a 97 p38 so could sync in the ignition but that’s not working tried every combination in the drivers door!
I swapped the case and evidently lost the code with the BCM. Now I have to enter the BCM code everywhere I go. Any ideas?
With regard to identifying if you have key 1 or two set the seat memory for 1 to full back and 2 full forward, use the keys and see what way the seat moves.
Disable passive immobilisation and you won't have to enter the EKA every time
As for fob not synching, does the fob light flash when you press the buttons? As you can enter the EKA then door latch switches are probably OK so fob and receiver are the place to start.
Have you cut the aerial on the receiver (blue wire) as this limits the range of the fob. Potentially when you try to sync through door, if fob isn't talking to receiver it'll never work.
As you've had the fob to bits, that is the place to start looking. maybe you didn't get the battery contacts back in correctly?
Has the fob ever worked? If not, you don't know if it is even the correct one for the car. Although it should sync in the ignition, most of the older ones don't. I've currently got a 96, a 97 and a 98 and none of them do. Does the LED on the fob flash? It should flash slowly when you press the button and, if you keep the button pressed, flash faster after a couple of seconds. To sync in the lock you put the key in the door lock, turn to lock and hold it there, while holding it there, press the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button and return the key to the centre position. Then repeat but in the unlock position and using the unlock button on the fob.
As OB says, if the blue wire on the receiver has been disconnected it may be that the signal from the fob isn't strong enough for the receiver to pick up the signal when the fob is in the door lock or it may simply be that the receiver has been completely disconnected or has died.
Thanks all, see below..
the fob light works.
The key did Work.
It has the newer type of RF receiver at the parcel shelf.
The key did Work before but battery cover was knackered opted to change key outer.
I don’t have access to a nano comm but might pop to a stealer.
Have also checked getting 6v across the board in key.
If the LED on the fob works then that is fine but if you have the newer receiver they may have better selectivity but they aren't as reliable as the earlier versions and do fail. I've come across one on a car that I maintain for the owner and Marty has had a few in for repair. If you can get hold of another receiver, any type will do, and that works then that proves the receiver. On the one I maintain everything seemed to be working fine but it would simply not sync. Took the earlier receiver out of my car and put that in and it synced immediately (although I did have to turn passive immobilisation back on in the BeCM before it would sync). Took my receiver out and put the orignal one back in and nothing. A couple of weeks later (when I was next there), I put an earlier receiver in and didn't even have to sync again, it just worked.
I think a trip to a local garage to see if they will switch on or check if passive immobilisation is switched on is worth it then. I have only had the car a few weeks and am finding lots I need to do.
Cleaned of the A Pillars today as the felt stuff was flacking off.
Changed the handbrake gaiter
Full coolant pipes and thermostat ordered.
Full service kit ordered.
All carpets shampooed and cleaned.
Leather seats cleaned. etc etc.
Certainly is worth checking although my 98 will sync even with passive immobilisation turned off, I think it was only on the later (99 onwards) cars that don't. Easy way to check if it is on or off is to unlock the car, open a door but wait for over a minute before trying to start it. If, when you try to start it, it won't turn over but comes up on the dash with Press Remote or Enter Code, it is on, if it starts normally, it is off. Later ones with it on will cause the LED on the fob to flash as soon as you put the key in the ignition so doing it for you. I lived with it on for over 5 years and just got into the habit of pressing unlock on the fob before trying to start the car and only turned it off when I bought the Nano. I still sometimes press unlock out of habit.
My '01 will sync with the passive immobilisation off. It should work on any P38. If you're having to start the vehicle with the EKA every time, then the passive immobiliser is already on anyway.
I am not sure why some of them start to sync again when the passive immobiliser is turned back on - but I'm wondering if it's actually just a case of clearing the RF memory in the BECM instead. It's also something worth trying.
The Key 1/2 thing will work, but the vehicle has to be Superlocked, and then lazy unlocked for a memory seat to move. It won't do it if you just standard lock the vehicle.
Stealer want £50 to show me how to get the Remote to work! Then another £50 if it needs to into the garage, and then 30m later £125 an hour!
I know how it should work, but its not working, Looks like the Parking Light comes on when the remote buttons are pressed the one by the gear level. That must mean the RF receiver is working. If i can use the EKA on the driver door then that must mean the switch is working. So why then is the key not syncing? Found on the interet that there are only 100 codes so eventually the key and the car will be on the same? Is this true?
and for the £50 all they will likely do is try the sync in the door lock method so you would be looking at a trip into the workshop as you've already tried that and it didn't work. Not sure what you mean by the parking lights coming on, but if you mean the interior lights are coming on it is seeing the correct code but not tripping the central locking or immobiliser. Odd.....
I'm thinking he means the red light on the gear shifter by P, which is out when BECM sleeping and on when it's awake. Could be wrong though.
If that is the case (BECM waking up to a fob transmission) that just means it's received a fob signal (or wifi, door opener, weather station etc), but not necessarily the correct fob signal.
Ahh yes, change Parking for Park and it makes sense now. However, that does confirm the receiver is working just that it is not receiving the correct code. As it did work and doesn't any more, it has to be a sync problem, it can't be the wrong lockset code stored in the BeCM or anything like that. Does the central locking work when the EKA is entered?
The key operates the central locking but the remote never works, I think i have found that the key is not actually sending out RF. The Park light is not coming on I must have had interference when I checked the other day. I have the blank blade from the replacement fob, I am thinking of getting this cut to use as a EKA key and send the broken one out for repair. Alternatively get a new key from LR at £150 ish.
I don't suppose you know anyone with a radio scanner do you? The fob should transmit on 433.92 MHz or thereabouts and a scanner will pick it up easily. When playing with the fob for my SE I noticed that the buttons have two poles so are in effect 2 switches in one. If only one is making contact, the LED comes on but it doesn't transmit.
I don’t I’m afraid. In south east Wales if anyone has one.
Stealer no.1 want £204 for a key!!! That’s 13% of what the car cost!
Stealer no.2 wants £276+Vat!!!!
Stealer no.3 wants £204.
Think we have a price set now.
Dealers charge dealer prices- all fairly standard
£180 plus VAT is going rate at the moment.
Oh yes, they have to come from USA, so there's a 6 week or so wait.
Just gets better, doesn't it?
Stealers..... yes, literally, fobs cost about £10-20... but there are options: Anyone tried them ?
Marty has gone into fobs in much more depth than I have, but it's my understanding that P38 fobs are one-time programmed by Huf and can't be re-programmed, by anyone, unfortunately.
There's anecdotal evidence around the forums that they can be "cloned" though.
I suppose- and again Marty will know much better than me, that if you can obtain a fob, or a few fobs, from the same lockset, you can associate the lockset code with an unlocked BECM