You may well be correct OB; For instance this is ominous:-
https://remotekey.co.uk/range-rover/p38-1995-2002/
The cynic in me wonders if these are no longer available because LR sued/threatened them (?)
How else could they rip us all off with a 1000% mark-up ?!
davew wrote:
The cynic in me wonders if these are no longer available because LR sued/threatened them (?)
The cynic in me wonders if they couldn't actually do what they advertised :)
When the last working Huf programming machine (the US one) for P38 fobs finally packs up, will new replacement fobs for the P38 become unobtainable? I see no obligation on LR to continue to provide a part for a model that went out of production 16 years ago.
Invest in used matching lockset fobs (pref multiples) now and you'll probably make fortunes, in partnership with Marty doing the BECM end :)
Orangebean wrote:
**The cynic in me wonders if they couldn't actually do what they advertised :)
When the last working Huf programming machine (the US one) for P38 fobs finally packs up, will new replacement fobs for the P38 become unobtainable? I see no obligation on LR to continue to provide a part for a model that went out of production 16 years ago.**
Invest in used matching lockset fobs (pref multiples) now and you'll probably make fortunes, in partnership with Marty doing the BECM end :)
It all depends on what those anecdotal forum stories reveal OB !... and LR/Obligation ? Hilarious !!
Good luck with your Partnership with Marty: I would trust you both 1000% more than any dealers, that's a fact !!
Fortunately on my (early) rig I use the key/s only; Mainly because I would not pay £300 for a "proper" Receiver...
or c.£200 for a Fob - and replacement blades only cost £s not £00s !
(Happy to pay the price of inconvenience if the micros fail too...)
I’m happy with just a blade key but how do I stop the car asking me to put in the EKA code?
Is that something someone can do within a 1 hour drive of the Severn bridge?
As OB said earlier you have to disable the Passive Immobilisation to avoid the EKA input...
Marty's in Swindon, how long/far away is that from you ?
Ahh OK, i read something about that but couldn't fully understand it. There is a indy up the road that might be able to plug in a do it for me. I will look into getting the key remote sorted at a later date once the exhaust and tyres are done.
Fair enough, but best to check they can do that specifically first, you need specialist kit....
As I already indicated if the micro-switches in the lock then fail you will have problems,,,,,
They are a landrover Indy. At the moment with no remote at all I am buggered if the lock breaks or the micro switches go. Will get a remote key but £200 and 6 weeks is a lot of extra turns on the door lock entering the EKA.
So if I understand this correctly if I disable Passive Immobilisation. I can unlock the car with the key and start it without having to enter the EKA code?
This will mean that remote central locking will not work is that correct?
What I am thinking of doing is getting it turned off so I can use the car a bit over the winter before I swap back to the summer car meaning the key situation can be fixed at leisure. Ive only had the P38 two months and don't want to spend another £200 on key that might or might not work. I am probably more likely to wear out the drivers door entering the EKA code every time.
Can someone clear this up for me?
Thanks.
Gilbert has had recent experience with passive immobilisation being turned off. He's your man!
Disabling passive immobilisation stops the car re-immobilising itself if you unlock it but don't start the car within a set time (30 seconds or 1 minute, don't recall off the top of my head). In that case you unlock the car, load the boot with shopping, dogs, kids, dead bodies or whatever, and when you go to start it, the dash comes up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote of Enter Code. With passive immobilisation turned off it doesn't matter how long you leave it before unlocking the car and starting it, it will still start. So once turned off, simply unlocking the car will turn off the immobiliser without it being necessary to enter the EKA code. But, the central locking will still work just as it should, so unlocking with the key blade will still unlock all the doors and locking will lock them all too. Similarly, locking with the key blade will set the immobiliser too so should someone get into the car other than by unlocking with the key blade, they still won't be able to start it.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Gilbert has had recent experience with passive immobilisation being turned off. He's your man!
The problem I had was that the key switch in the latch had failed (or at least the wire to it had) so unlocking with the key blade didn't tell the BeCM that I'd unlocked it with the key, it thought I'd unlocked it by breaking a window and lifting the button up. It was when EKA had been turned off in the BeCM that it got really complicated as the immobiliser was set (from previously locking it), the fob had lost sync as the battery had gone flat, I'd unlocked it with the key blade so the immobiliser was set and as EKA had been disabled the only way to turn it off was with the fob. But as the fob can't be synced while the system is in the alarmed state, I was pretty much stuffed. So disabling EKA in the BeCM doesn't mean you don't need to enter it, it means that it doesn't ask for it.
Passive immobilisation also will kick in after the time out period if the vehicle has been running, shut the engine off, and then open the drivers door.
If the passive immobiliser is enabled, then in theory the vehicle will recognise when the key it put in the ignition and the BECM will then activate the coil around the ignition, which pulses the key fob and tells it to then transmit an unlock code - seamlessly letting you start the vehicle again.
However, if you have a fault with the coil, or the key fob then it doesn't send the unlock code, and that's what causes the "Engine Disabled, Press Remote Or Enter Code" message. In a case where you have a working fob but the coil is faulty (as I had on my RR until I turned off the passive immobiliser) then pressing the unlock button on a synced fob will then trigger another unlock and turn the immobiliser off and let you start the vehicle. In a case where the fob is faulty (ie, in your case) then you can't press the button on the remote, as it isn't synced or working properly, so you have to enter the EKA.
Switching the passive immobiliser off - as Gilbertd mentions disables that auto timeout of re-immobilisation, so once it's unlocked, its mobilised and stays that way until the vehicle is re-locked.
As another note - if you get the fob repaired, then you DON'T need to re enable the passive immobiliser for the remote to work. I've had it turned off on mine for the last 5 years and both my remote fobs will sync up and work with no problems. There have been a few noted cases where fobs that won't sync with the vehicle (when they are known to be good) have been made possible to sync by temporarily turning the passive immobiliser back on - but there is no solid evidence as to why this works. I suspect it might have something to do with the RF memory in the BECM, and wonder if just clearing that will have the same affect - but haven't had time, or a spare vehicle with a fob that won't sync, to try it on.
But even if you have a vehicle with a fob that's already synced and turn the passive immobiliser off, it will still stay synced to the vehicle and work normally.
OK, So i guess then its not worth doing then.
Can Timpsons make a blade key that will let me into the car and start it with the EKA code? I could then send my key off for repair. Or are there still electrics in the key that are needed? Can people actually fix these key or is a waste of time.
With LR saying 8 to 10 weeks for key I suspect that the car will go wrong a few more times in the next few months and i will regret ordering a key for £200. Its the all out get out and guess that as I only need one key will not matter what one I order.
There are soo many mixed messages out there is confusing!
Rcutler wrote:
OK, So i guess then its not worth doing then.
Yes it definitely is. In the BeCM there are settings for Immobilisation Enabled/Disabled setting that to Disabled is a good thing and means you don't have to wear out the key switch and door lock constantly entering the EKA code. The other setting is EKA Enabled/Disabled which is the one you do not want to disable. Every P38 I plug my Nano into, including all 3 of mine, gets Passive Immobilisation turned off unless the owner has any particular reason for wanting it left on (and nobody has yet)
Rcutler wrote:
Can Timpsons make a blade key that will let me into the car and start it with the EKA code? I could then send my key off for repair. Or are there still electrics in the key that are needed? Can people actually fix these key or is a waste of time.
I've got a blank key blade that came with a replacement case I bought. My local Timsons couldn't do it, I had to go to a specialist locksmith. They could do it but couldn't do it while I waited. They had to find the profile from my existing key and then program their computer to cut the blank (so you get a perfect key and not a replica of your worn key). They had a problem finding the profile as it was under BMW and not Land Rover. A key blade on it's own will unlock the car and allow you to enter the EKA code, none of the electronics are needed. Fobfix could repair them but a couple of people have had problems with them just recently so it's probably better to bite the bullet and get a new one.
Local place can do it but want £40 to do it!!!
I am about quite a bit this week and will be in the Oxford area on Thursday with the car if anyone wants to earn the money themselves.
Otherwise £40 to an indy to turn off a setting might not be worth it and add to the get a new key fund.
Thanks.