Might be a daft question but are the two bits circled here the pin number and the wire colour? IE: Pin 3 is a black wire with a white stripe going to both the tweeter and the mid speaker?
Yes!
Midrange and tweeter are connected in parallel (with a capacitor incorporated into tweeter.)
Pin 3 on C1427L Black wire/ white tracer
Pin4 White wire/ black tracer.
Thanks!
Just trying to work out the wiring to replace the DSP with the door amp system.
I'm not too sure what's happening in this image though:
It looks like pins 3/YG and 4/GY go to the left front bass speaker but I'm not sure what the dotted line a little way down that has shows the pin numbers reversed (4 and 3) means.
At the speaker end of all of these, is 1 the positive terminal and 2 the negative?
Think I figured it out...the dotted lines show a different connector in which the pin numbers are different.
C0491 is the plug that connects to the DSP and it uses pins 3 and 4. C1367 is a connector at the other end of the loom before it goes out to the speakers, presumably a door loom or joint somewhere under the carpet etc.
The dotted line shows that there is a connector there, C1367 connected to C1380L (L being Left, there will be another C1380R on the Right). 1 will probably be the +ve as the wiring coloured do seem to follow the DIN standard for speaker wiring.
Looks like you sussed it while I was typing. If you look up the connector number in RAVE it will show you the layout and location of the connector. Don't think there are any connectors under carpet, even LR would realise that would be a failure waiting to happen.
Yeah, I remembered Marty had trouble sourcing the DSP connector C0491 which made me realise they were connector numbers.
C1367 and C1380L don't have locations in RAVE, just face view diagrams. Must be somewhere in or near the door though, I guess.
I'm my website, I have a very handy 'Premium Audio System' wiring download... big spreadsheet I did 5 odd years ago when I was trying to figure out all the wiring at the DSP amp etc.
Might be worth downloading, as I've got all the pin number, wire colours, and description of what each pin does... May make it a bit easier to figure out than trawling RAVE!
That certainly simplifies things!
I guess I need to take the wires from the DSP connector and connect them to the correct input pins on the door amps, then connect the door amp output pins to the appropriate speakers?
Yes,
I do all the connections in the loadspace where the DSP amp lives. I cut that connector off, and then wire the replacement amps in at that end of the vehicle as all the wiring is in one place
As you've got the connectors and pins, you could crimp the pins directly onto the wires and out them in the connectors for the amps.
You'll need to join the +ve, -ve, and 'wake up' wires together from each amp into the one wire that's in the loadspace. Other than that, and running 4 extra wires to the head unit connector for the rear left/right input feeds, it's pretty just matching wires to pin locations on connectors.
I don't think my mind is set up for wiring diagrams and circuits...
Martyuk wrote:
You'll need to join the +ve, -ve, and 'wake up' wires together from each amp into the one wire that's in the loadspace.
I'm reading this as there being only a single wire in the DSP plug that serves a positive and negative signal as well providing a remote turn on signal. Is that right?
I'm looking at the chart from your website and can see that there is an individual wire for remote turn on (pin 10) and four wires for audio input signals coming out of the radio - FR+ (pin 9), FR- (pin 17), FL+ (pin 38) and FL- (pin 30).
I can split the remote turn on four ways but can't I use the four audio signal wires to serve the two front door amps rather than joining any of them together?
And yes, I'll need to run additional wires to the head unit for rear signals.
Will I need to do anything with the sub?
I know it's outside the realms of your DSP replacement post on the other forums as that is aimed at cars still using the factory radio, but any idea if I can retain the subwoofer using an aftermarket unit?
The one I'm buying has a sub connector like this:
.
Would it just be easier to buy a small aftermarket amp to power the sub than try messing with the wiring to make this work?
I didn't mention anything about joining the front corners together... +ve and -ve in my previous post are the main 12v (+ve) and ground (-ve) wires in the vehicle loom to the DSP amp.
So:
Split +ve (12v), - ve (ground) and 'wake up' 4 ways, one to each amp.
Yes, front left/right +ve/- ve are inputs for 2 amps, no splitting required.
Run 4 extra wires for rear left/right +ve/- ve inputs to the other 2 amps
Subwoofer input/output wires from DSP connector get cut and joined together (Orange to orange, orange/black to orange/black) to feed sub amp direct from head unit.
If you go aftermarket head unit then just need to put a Phono connector on the subwoofer wires at the head unit end to plug into the green connector.
I'd also recommend making up attenuators and using the amped outputs of an aftermarket head unit for the 4 doors, as it will reduce chances of whine that you're likely to get using the aux outs of an aftermarket head unit.
Ah, ok - sorry, I'd misunderstood what you meant with +/- then.
I've got the parts to make up the attenuators and planned to put them inline with with ISO wiring - is this correct?
Now I'm getting confused with the subwoofer bit. Do you mean take the standard subwoofer wiring that is connected to the factory head unit and attach a phono to speaker wire adapter which will plug in to the green phono on the new head unit?
Like this (but only using one channel on it): http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/accessories/line-output-converters/rockford-fosgate-rfi2sw-speaker-line-to-male-rca-adapter ?
Or like this: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/accessories/line-output-converters/phonocar-4-196-line-level-converter ?
Sorry, my only experience of car audio has been of plug and play systems.
I noticed in your post on the other forum that you mentioned being unable to source matching colour wires for each connection. I think I've managed to find matching colours for every connection but through a couple of different sources. Which colours were you unable to find? I'll send a link to where I found them.
You use the first one and only use half of it. Or, you chop the phono plug off and connect directly to the sub feed to the back of the car. It looks like the sub output is mono, hence only one plug. The DIN output will give you speaker level outputs so that is there the attenuators need to go and ignore the line level outputs (plugs 13-16). The 'wake up' output from the head unit to your door amps (and the sub presumably), is wire 8. As it can also do video, you may need to do something (probably tie it to ground) with wire 3. One of the cars I imported from the US had a similar type system and you could only watch video on it when the handbrake was on and there was a wire that was grounded when the handbrake was applied.
Thanks Richard :)
Going back to the image of the radio I posted, I think I'm mostly OK with it. The steering wheel controls are confusing me a little.
2 - Connect to the reverse light circuit at the BECM
3 - Connect to handbrake circuit at the BECM
4 - Connect to Pin 6 in the ISO block
5 - Is this ground related to the steering wheel controls or should I just connect this to any convenient grounding point? The ISO power connector does have a ground pin in it already
6 - SW1, for steering wheel controls
7 - SW2, for steering wheel controls
8 - AMP control, don't need to do anything with this as it spurs off the wire in pin 5 of the ISO block which is the remote turn on anyway.
The wiring diagram on Marty's website shows the factory radio only has one steering wheel wire - pin 2 - and no additional ground wire for it. Should I just connect the SW1 wire of the new radio in to pin 2 of the ISO block to connect to the vehicle's steering wheel control wire? I've guessed that wire 5 (GND) might be related to the steering wheel controls as I've seen some systems working with three connections, where different combinations of signals across the three correspond to a specific radio command.
I'm guessing the P38 doesn't work this way and uses a variable signal on the one wire, meaning I'm going to need a steering wheel control adapter?
2 looks correct assuming you have a reversing camera or something that means it needs to know when you are in reverse.
3 again OK if you intend watching video on it (but as it's capable of doing it, why not?), it will blank the screen when the handbrake is off.
4 Yes
5 I suspect that is just a standard ground, you may as well connect it, it won't do any harm even if it doesn't need it.
6 & 7 Does the manual say these are for steering wheel controls or are they for power if you don't use the DIN connector? The original unit uses what's known as a ladder circuit where a press of each button sends a different resistance between the remote wire and ground. More modern units use data and I suspect that is what the adapter on eBay you linked to does, converts the different resistance values to data. I know my Kenwood head unit uses data and that adapter says it will work with Kenwood. If it does work, at that price I might get one and replace my steering wheel with one with buttons so I can use it.
If it's an android head unit then the steering wheel control wire just goes to SW1. The controls themselves are all programmed in the software, so it obviously measures the voltage drop on the wire when each button is pressed and records that against the action you want it to do.
I found this on the manufacturers website, it's just says connect the 3 head unit cables to the 3 vehicle cables. The GND wire is related to the steering wheel controls.
http://www.eonon.com/car-dvd-blog/post/Basic-Wiring-of-Eonon-Car-DVD.html
The manual that came with the unit is fairly useless, it's more for operating it once installed than actually installing it. It has waiting diagram of sorts but it has the same info as the image I posted.
It does have a reverse camera so I'll need to tap in to the reverse signal.
You were typing as I was Marty, missed your reply.
I'll just connect SW1 to the appropriate pin on the ISO block then.
Cheers :)