Hi All,
I've got a sick 4.0L Gems P38 :(
Over pressure on the expansion tank, Did slightly over heat once in my 1 months ownership.
New thermostat flushed system etc.
So it looks like a head strip.
But i have 1 question which i'm a little unsure, i also did a oil change with 5w 40 oil and added 1L off additive as its 140,000 miles
well when it gets hot and been running for sometime at idel speed in drive the oil light flashes also when started from cold i have a knock from the bottom end when i rev slightly?
can this be a liner????
5W40 might be a bit thin for a 140 000 mile motor. What was the litre of additive that you put in? A litre of additive is quite a lot, no matter what it is! <br>
Knocks from bottom end on cold will be crank bearings. The legendary slipped liners get rattlier as the engine gets hotter and clearances expand. <br>
From your description- overheating/ pressurising, oil light at idle and knocking from cold, unfortunately I think you may be looking at a full rebuild, but I am famously mechanically pessimistic
The Additive i used was Lucas heavy duty oil stabillizer, the knock has only just started after about 1 week and say 100miles since oil change same as the oil light,
i cant say if the oil light was like this before the oil change as it was not noticed?
so im a little confused in whats happening as i've already spent many hours fixing RR elect faults and EAS issues.
haven't got £2000 foe recon engine, but willing to spend money like a head gasket kit etc and do it myself.
That stuff is just snake oil/ thickener. If you feel your engine's a bit tired and would benefit from a heavier oil, best to up a notch or two in viscosity and use a quality oil. The science gurus at a decent oil manufacturer will have added just the right additives to do the job. <br>
Your knocking might even be caused by your oil + additive being too thick to circulate when cold. <br>
You might solve your problem knocking by draining and flushing oil system, new filter and refill with a good 10w40 or 20w50. <br>
Good luck
Agree on 5W-40 being too thin but I used to run 15W-40 in mine and never had a death rattle from the bottom end or a flickering oil pressure light. When I had my engine reconned, the builders recommended 10W-60 fully synthetic so that's what I've been running in it since. Not cheap (although you do get the regular deals from Euro Car Parts so if you buy it at the right time you can keep the cost down) but it seems to do the job. Admittedly, that is in what is effectively a new engine though.
At 140k it isn't excessive, mine had 287k when I decided it really did need a rebuild. While you've got it apart, drop the sump off and give it, and the pickup strainer, a good clean. If it's been neglected you'll probably find a lot of sludge in there. If funds will stretch to it, a set of oil pump gears and ARP head studs instead of stretch bolts too. The problem with the stretch bolts is unless you buy genuine Land Rover ones, and they are still made to the same spec as the originals, you've no way of knowing if they will stretch too much, too little or just shear off! If it's got a Britpart oil filter, bin it and fit something like a Mahle, the Britpart ones don't have a non-return valve so the oil can drain back to the sump when left.
As for the original overheat, my money would be on a partially clogged radiator rather than a stat.