On my android head unit I took the reverse and handbrake signals from wiring on the front of the BECM, and then ran it up under the carpet into the space behind the head unit. I put a separate 2 pin connector on the wiring I ran, and the 2 wires from the head unit so that it should be taken apart a bit easier, should I need to remove the whole thing for any reason in the future (like upgrading the head unit).

Also on mine, I can program some of the functions to a short and a long press - (not possible with volume up/down though, but most other functions can be either programmed for a short/long press) which is handy as it means I can have 8 functions with only the 5 buttons on the steering wheel.

For the attenuators (http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html), can I test them prior to install? Measure resistance at given points etc?

What should I be looking for?

I've done continuity tests but not had a tone from my meter - I think this is normal for resistors though.

When I made them, I twisted the three 120 ohm resistors together and soldered them in that way, rather than as three individual resistors. When joined together the meter measured the resistance across them as around 40 ohm - is this correct?

Three 120 Ohm resistors in parallel will give you 40 Ohms, but 40 Ohms is not a standard value (33 or 47 are standard values) which is why he's used 3 in parallel. Not only that, but by using 3 they don't need to be high current ones either.

Most cheapo meters won't give a tone for much over 5 Ohms, it is intended for checking continuity rather than resistance.

Just wired the door amps in and switched on the factory radio....nothing.

No pops or bangs or static and no music.

Four dead door amps, every single wiring connection not making a good connection or a dead factory head unit?

Somewhere in my foggy memory I recall something about having to set the DSP head unit to max volume before powering it down or connecting it to another amp.
Could be wrong, or it might be something else.

I had that thought after I posted but couldn't remember if that was so the DSP would work with an aftermarket head unit.

Might be worth disconnecting the audio side from the head, powering it up, and setting max volume, just to see

Would that be different to raising the volume with it connected? I tried turning it up and have it several full rotations of the knob.

Have you checked to make sure you're getting permanent 12v and the switched 12v to the amplifiers?

If you've wired in door amps and removed the DSP, then turning up to full means nothing. That is apparently what to do if you are putting an aftermarket head unit in with a DSP amplifier.

As Sloth says.. check for the permanent 12V and ground at all the door amps.
Check the grey/black wire is getting 12v at all the amps when the head unit is powered up.
If you are using the factory head unit, then make sure there are no attenuators plugged in, as the factory head unit outputs the correct line level signal, so attenuating that will probably give you nothing at the amps.

Also double check all the wiring pins at the amp connectors.

Post a couple of pictures up too, might aid in troubleshooting from afar..

I have permanent 12V, switched 12V and ground at all door amps.

Dashboard end is all stock so far, not messing with that until I get the amps themselves working - so there's no attenuators installed etc. Just the regular radio.

I've checked my connections and as far as I can tell they're all making a connection. I went with crimp connectors rather than soldering as A) my soldering skills leave a lot to be desired, B) I expected to have gotten something wrong that will need changing and C) we have several inches of snow and I'm working outside - crimping was quicker and easier.

Here's some photos of what I've done so far. My work is a lot less professional looking than yours Marty :P

Amp board showing part numbers and intended location (LHR etc)👍

Birds nest of cables and crimps:

Each door amp connector. For the most part these are wired with the colours from RAVE for each connector - some of these colours are different to the corresponding pin in the DSP connector. One or two the wires doesn't match either the RAVE diagram or the corresponding DSP wire as some of the wires I ordered didn't actually arrive, I had to use what I had spare. I'll include images of the spreadsheet I made showing which door amp pin went to which DSP pin further down. In each of these images pin 1 is to the left - I followed the pin numbering printed on the connector.

LHF connector:

RHF connector:

LHR connector:

RHR connector:

These wires were left over from the DSP connector. I found another spare wire that I missed yesterday, a thin brown one, that isn't shown here:

Here's the snow, although much of it is gone it's still bloody cold out!

DSP wiring:

LHF wiring:

RHF wiring:

LHR wiring:

RHR wiring:

Ok, so if you have permanent 12V/ground on the correct wires, then I'd suggest a couple of things...

When turning on the radio, do you still get the option of DSP when you scroll through the settings? if so, then it could mean the head unit is still in DSP mode and you may need to totally unplug the power from the head unit, and then power it back up/input code etc. I'm not sure how it detects the DSP amp to switch between modes (it obviously looks for communications on the I-bus line - but whether it only 'refreshes' once the head unit has been fully powered off/on or whether it does it on any power up, I'm not 100% sure as i've always done my testing on the bench where I can turn the power off fully).

If you don't get the option of DSP, then chances are it's already just outputting normally in non-DSP mode. in this case, I would then try testing the amps separately.

I test my amps on the bench, just with a 3.5mm jack and then connecting one side of this (Left or Right, doesn't matter) to the input pins of the amplifier and then play some music through my mp3 player. As long as the amp is powered up with 12V, gnd, and then 12v switched on the grey/black wire, then you should hear something through the speakers for that amp.

I have a few amps here which are faulty - they don't seem to power up fully when the switched 12V is provided, and if I jumper the amplifier chip manually, then it powers up and works - so there must be a component on the amp board which is causing it to not turn on fully. That being said.. I would find it very strange if NO speakers work...

The DSP option disappeared when the amp died. Still not there now.

I'll have to get hold of a 3.5mm socket to test with and a small speaker.

Oh, if it helps...after I did the wiring yesterday fuse 15 blew and my central locking stopped working. Related?

You shouldn't need a small speaker - use the ones that are in the vehicle!

Use the MP3 player as the input to the amplifier, and then it should amplify incoming signal to the door speakers that are connected to that amp.

DSP option disappearing suggests that the head unit is already in a non-DSP mode - so should be outputting all 4 corners.

F15 blowing probably because something shorted out with the Purple wire as you were splitting it 4 ways to the amps. It's one of the main permanent 12V feeds to the DSP amp, along with RF receiver, loadspace lamp, tailgate lock, some of the other interior lamps and the rear door locking/unlocking relay.

I forgot to mention earlier too, the random brown wire you found is another 12V permanent feed to the DSP amp - so I would recommend capping the end of it with some insulation tape, so it doesn't short on anything too. It comes from Fuse F1, which also does Radio, Clock, instrument cluster, window switchpack etc... so probably don't want that one randomly going pop either!

Yeah, I realised i could use the speakers in the car shortly after posting. I also realised I don't need to go out and buy a 3.5mm socket that has bare wire on the other end...i can just cut the end off an aux cable...

So that's my plan for tomorrow. Aux cable in to ipod, wires at the other end in to the door amp input pins, power up the radio so the remote turn on fires up and see what happens.

Went out today and started playing around with my chopped up aux cable. Ground cable went to the ground pin and the other two I treated as a positive and negative signal...though i now realise that was probably wrong as the aux cable will carry left and right channels rather than a positive and negative of the same channel.

I initially i got nothing.

Then I got music.

Then I realised that I still had sound with only of the two input wires connected. Then i found that with both input wires connected the music was quieter and I LOST some elements of the song. Some tracks I lost vocals, others I lost parts of the music. I guess it was dropping either the left or right track of the audio source when both wires were connected. Possibly as I was connecting two positive wires?

Then, strangest of all, the radio started working! No idea why, I hadn't changed anything.

Either way, this allowed me to confirm that all of my amps work. I didn't seem to have any bass in my front doors anymore so I need to look at the connections there.

At this point I charged ahead and started the rest of the install. Running the wiring for the reverse camera (pain in the arse getting it through the rubber conduit at the top of the tailgate, the cable is also too short and stops next to the passenger seat :( ), running extra speaker cables to the dashboard and pulling the dashboard panel out to cut up.

Installed and working :D

Still need an extension for the reverse camera though.

Installed the head unit a little differently to Marty. I cut the box down but instead of sliding it in to the depths of the dash I glued the screen housing to where the lid used to be. This made it one piece again and put all the cable connections at the bottom, accessible through the now open hole where the factory radio was. There's still enough clearance to fit some kind of single DIN storage in there too.

All speakers in all doors are working, not sure if I have the subwoofer - I don't think that worked for a while. Last time I know it worked was when I gave it a bit of a performance test. Possibly blew the amp on it :P I also noticed one of the cones has completely separated from the housing. I tried to take it out but it wouldn't move even with all the screws removed - glued in as well?

the later subwoofers have the amplfier bolted to the back of the actual speakers, so you need to pull the whole box out and apart to remove the amp before the individual speaker units can be removed.

Glad the rest of it is all done - just need a pic of the finished install now :)

nice idea about putting the rest of it vertically - I had considered it on mine, but wasn't sure if it would fit, and also I wanted to make it so I could remove the whole main part of the unit for future tinkering if required :)

I tried to fit in the way you did but couldn't get it to go in. I had little other choice in the end. It was a tight fit though.

I'll post a pic up tomorrow...foe the life of me i can't figure out how to upload a photo using the Imgur app or mobile website. I'll have to get on the PC in the morning.

Here's the unit being installed:

And here it is finished and working. Needs a bit of stray silicon removing:

I've also made a proper Imgur album that I was planning on posting to the Land Rover subreddit: https://imgur.com/a/XITzy

I've not done that yet though, I wanted to check with you if you're happy for me to do so since it mentions you, links to your website and the DSP replacement stuff is all your ideas and work.