Richard, so glad it's not just me that snaps the 3/8 to 1/2 adapted, that's why I invested in 16mm 1/2 drive,, think my halfords are sick of seeing me with a socket or ratchet spanner in hand, lol.
I found that a socket intended for the smaller sized spark plugs is a good fit on the head bolts and 6 sided too. For some reason I'd got two of those in my toolbox, a 3/8 drive and a 1/2 inch. The 1/2 inch drive one with a short 3" extension, means I'm not using anything 3/8 drive. Mind you, it could be worse. Ex used to have a Porsche 944 and to change the rear brake shoes meant taking the rear driveshaft nut off. Only problem is that it is a 36mm nut done up to something like 260 lbf/ft. The only way of shifting one of those is with a 3/4 drive impact socket and a 10 foot scaffold pole......
Just had a thought.
What about using an impact wrench. I have one that tightens to 340Nm so in theory it should be capable of loosening the same.
You can give it a go, nothing to lose and if it works, job done..
Its not going well.
Managed to remove the first bolt but bolt no 2 is almost rounded off, its last chance saloon for it. I dont understand why neither the 16mm or 5/8 is not a perfect fit.
Ive read that heating the bolt up maybe an option but I dont have a blow torch, might sound daft but will a kitchen/chefs torch produce enough heat.
Also welding a nut to the top of it, although I dont have a welder and have never welded before.
Maybe the 5/8 from this set will fit in there <br>
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-BASE-SET-5PC-SET-3-8-10MM-5-8-16MM-x-1-/201598707416?hash=item2ef03826d8Ⓜ️mKkVk5Pc9MJZuQu-T-ZFCTA <br>
I've used them on stubborn/ rounded/ rusted nuts on many classics. <br>
If it's #2 in the official removal sequence, at least it's accessible. <br>
With care the head can be drilled off, assuming you can get at it to centre punch, drill straight and use cobalt bits.
There's no gentle way to say this, but if your 5/8 6 point socket is rounding the heads off, then it's probably a sh!t socket. It would be worth investing in a quality side drive socket similar to this in a 5/8 <br>
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precise-Engineered-Facom-Square-Socket/dp/B013ZOZ9HQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466599964&sr=8-6&keywords=facom+ogv+socket+16mm <br>
Welding a nut on works cos it attacks from 2 fronts- puts lots of heat in and gives you something decent to grip on. Not an option if you don't have a welder and can't weld though! <br>
No idea if a chef's torch would put enough heat in. I've only ever used the missus' for lighting bonfires. <br>
Good luck- perseverance will get you there
Thanks OB, I will try the Bolt -Grips.
I am doing it in sequence as per Rave. The socket I am using now is decent but the 2 previous ones that broke obviously weren't, a costly impatient mistake I wont forget as I didnt like waiting for the correct tools to arrive and hastily went ahead, so only myself to blame.
riddlemethis wrote:
Its not going well.
Managed to remove the first bolt but bolt no 2 is almost rounded off, its last chance saloon for it. I dont understand why neither the 16mm or 5/8 is not a perfect fit.
Ive read that heating the bolt up maybe an option but I dont have a blow torch, might sound daft but will a kitchen/chefs torch produce enough heat.Also welding a nut to the top of it, although I dont have a welder and have never welded before.
Which bolt is it, I had a problem with a back bolt so couldn't get at it to hit removal socket on, ended up buying a set of removal sockets that lock onto anything when you twist, will pop out to car later and get the name, they weren't cheap, but ive used them so many times since,, earnt there money back for sure
Popped out to car, the sockets I got are Chicago brand, if you type bolt removal sockets into search engine your find them, I've used them on a torque wrench with no problem, if you can get at it, a set of irwins will work, but if an end bolt you will have to grind the spanner head shape off and use ratchet,,
Thanks for the added info Chris, I saw those grip-tites whilst looking on Amazon for the Bolt-grips and wondered how they varied.
Cheers OB, Bolt-grips arrived today and it did the job. I'm chuffed and relieved. Ive never had so many tools until I owned a P38.
You putting ARP studs in when reassembling? Make life easier next time you want to do the heads and avoid that Ooops moment when torquing down the stretchy bolts...
Next time...............it will be a can of petrol. Haha.
I looked into the cost of the APR's and at twice the price from what Ive seen I dont think I will unless you know of a good source. I will of course get genuine stretch bolts otherwise.
Glad you managed to get the bolt out, as I said, mine was back r/h head, I used the grip tight on a torque wrench and scaffold pole extension, was convinced it was gonna snap or rip the thread out, was relieved when it moved,, lol
Well, thats one side off.
Opinions on the state of them, why so much carbon build up etc?
I'm having trouble getting the steering shaft off.
Followed instructions as per Paul's P38 http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/engine-refresh/
Undone all the bolts described, I can slide the shaft up and down but There is at least 1 " of the shaft remaining on the rod when the shaft is fully up or down so its physically impossible to move it any further and therefore remove from the rod.
Sorted but had to use a hammer.
Why are you taking the steering shaft off now? Normally you only need to take it off to give access to the manifold bolts but as it looks like you took the head off with the manifold still attached, so you don't need to.
The carbon build up looks like it's been burning some oil. There's one that is worse than the others (2nd from the left in the photos, number 3 cylinder) and that same cylinder is a darker colour on the head too. I suppose it's possible the rings are getting tired, or, more likely from the state of the rest of the engine, the oil control ring is gummed into it's groove. From the general blackness in the valley, it seems oil changes and decent quality oil, are two things your engine hasn't seen very often in the past.
Thats the other side, I'm now doing the side with the shaft.
I admit I have neglected it the past few years. I will try clean it all up the best I can .
I am just measuring the cylinder head warp, thankfully this one appears to be ok after Ive cleaned off the carbon build up. Would the carbon building up cause a problem by pushing into the gasket effectively breaking a tight seal?
This thread has gone awfully quiet. You've got it apart, we've seen the pictures to prove it, but has it gone back together again?
Ive been visiting the folks back in Blighty, just got back today.
I still have one more side to take off and then the fun will begin trying to get them skimmed over here.
Good luck with that. We've had so much grief trying to find anywhere capable of doing that kind of work in France, we've been getting it done in the UK and shipping bits back and forth.