Every time I've tried to remove a rear height sensor, I've had to resort to the angle grinder. Wickes do some very useful 1mm thick cutting blades.....
Hahaha thanks Gilbertd, I'll visit them tomorrow then!
UPDATE So it's Jackanory time....
So I have now fitted a new rear height sensor (OEM), bought new nylon rod and finally calibrated the 4 heights. Now it's time to see if the suspension stays up at the back. I now know I need to replace my 4 bump stops as they are a bit shagged and worn out.
I have fitted a pressure gauge so at least I can see the pressure in the air tank now.
Only downside a bloody transit van smashed my drivers mirror clean in half (bar steward) on a country road.
I only have today and tomorrow to see if this fix holds as I'm off on a short notice job back to the US for a month.... If I can fly to Dublin on Sunday that is hahaha
This morning I checked on the car and FL is up and all the other 3 corners are down. The air reservoir doesn't seem to keep a full charge overnight and it's always around 20psi in the morning.
Should the air tank keep a full charge over night or at least hold the same amount that it was parked up with? I'm guessing it should. If it is going down where would be the most likely culprit? I'll have to wait until April when I get back home now before I do any more investagative work.
Thanks for all the advice so far!
If it going down because it is self levelling, then taking the EAS timer relay out will stop that happening. The, unless you have any leaks, it will stay up and the reservoir will stay filled.
I suspected it might be that. My drive's on about a 15 degree up slope so I thought that may have something to do with it.
I read on the Stockholm views P38 article that he wired up his delay timer so it only operated whilst the car was actually running. I'll leak test on my return, but my ocd with niggles will mean I will have to leak test the whole system.
Hi all,
I'm home now so back to the P38 air suspension tomorrow
Mukiwa wrote:
I suspected it might be that. My drive's on about a 15 degree up slope so I thought that may have something to do with it.
I read on the Stockholm views P38 article that he wired up his delay timer so it only operated whilst the car was actually running. I'll leak test on my return, but my ocd with niggles will mean I will have to leak test the whole system.
I did this as well, just for giggles, but it seemed to cause all sorts of other issues, like going to high or access for no reason, which all went away when the bridge was removed. Talked to a guy here who tried it as well, same strange results.
Where I live is a fairly narrow lane with houses on each side. Due to flooding issues, most have very steep approaches to garage doors, so as I swing over to line up for reversing in, the front goes through some fairly acute articulation, followed by the rear as I swing back into mine. Almost inevitably, the next morning will see it dropped, presumably due to earlier confusion but then switched off before it can sort its life out. However, it raises immediately the vehicle is started.
You don’t need any wiring change to stop the timer, just swap the 5 pin relay for a 4 pin one, only thing is, you need the 5 pin to diagnose any problems, so maybe a switch on one of the wires would do the job !
There's a couple of downsides to swapping the timer relay. Diagnostics won't connect without it which isn't too important as long as you know and remember to swap it back in. The other problem is one of the reasons it is there in the first place. Say you've got the boot loaded up with stuff, you park up and unload so the car rises on the suspension as the weight is removed. With the timer in place as soon as you close the boot and all the doors, it then lowers itself down to normal height. With the relay swapped, there's no power to the ECU once the ignition is off so it doesn't drop and you end up with a car standing on stilts.