I have a workshop, yes - which I have only just started taking over myself - which means an extra expense every month - and it's half an hour from home! but fingers crossed I can get my money's worth from it!

It's got enough space to fit my 2 P38's in, and space for storage/working around the vehicles - which is good... but like everything you fill the space up, and wish there was more!

At home however, my daily RR is parked on the street, and I'm not really supposed to do any vehicle work here - but I'm sure I can get away with some of the smaller jobs...

In fact we all need a farmhouse with lots of parkingspace around it, and a decent shed, and a firm 4 post ramp... Then again it will be filled up in no time as you said Martin, since I also have this other hobby, boats!

Oh well, I'll stick to my 7 meter driveway and 2,5x6 meter garage ment to shelter a mini but now packed with all kind of stuff.

My diesel has also got stretch bolts in the head. I am not a big fan of them. I was thinking of fitting ordinary high tensile steel bolts instead and using a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gasket. I have got a new block to build up at some time.

Just been reading up on torque for the ARP's and as usual a lot of conflicting numbers.

Ive read most have torques in 3 increments of about 20 50 80 however ARP state on their web it needs to be 100.
Also there torquing sequence is completely different .

What have you all been doing?

I've not used, so don't know about sequence changing, but sounds a bit odd too be honest, as for torque I would of though 70-80 max, I had a read up and it's said stretch bolts are about 85 torque after the 2 x 90 and once settled,, wish someone told mine that, lol

Haven't used them either but IMHO a torqueing sequence has nothing to do with the type of bolts you use, your engine isn't aware of that. The purpose is to spread the force evenly from centre to outside.
As for the force I understand the topthread of ARP's is fine course compared to the stretchbolts that use the cylinderthread, I've read on 'the other' forum that 65 to 70 (ft lb I presume) will do, 100 should be killing for the blockthreads. The toad might be right in this.

I don't know of any engine with an alloy head and a composite gasket that needs the head torquing down to any more than 65-70 ft/lbs, that's the norm for just about everything. That's what I did mine to when I put the rebuilt heads back on the rebuilt block and that was 30,000 miles ago. Just make sure you use Elring gaskets and you won't have a problem.

I am looking at this kit which includes the Elring.

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/head-gasket-incl-elring-head-gaskets-stc4082el-p-6566.html

Dont know why ARP would state 100lbs/ft when nearly everyone else says around 65 to a max of 80. I did find something that ARP had updated their bolts specifically for the 4.0 - 4.6l but before doing so only suggested 80. Very odd.

That's the very same set I bought to put mine back together. You'll end up with a bag of assorted copper washers and O rings as, other than the head gaskets, it's the same set for older motors. So don't worry about having bits left over......

Yeah, I noticed there were a lot of parts shown that I didnt recognise.

ARP studs arrived from Rimmers today.
They are actually supplied by RealSteel.co.uk. It looks like they sell them for £118 and according to their T& C's page VAT is included.They do a pdf on their parts for the v8. The part number for the studs are AZ510A. Unfortunately they are not supplied with the ARP Molly Lube so you will need to order separately for a few quid.

Hope this saves someone else a few quid when ordering.