So obviously I’ve upset mine after giving it a hoover inside, always been reliable as of the past 18-24 months, started first turn, but today it’s just cranking, plugged in the nano, no faults stored, looks like I know what I’m doing today ( as if I haven’t got enough going on) 🤬
Doesn't a Thor crank but not fire if it has lost sync? I don't think you get the lack of MIL like on a GEMS, but it may just need to be re-synced with the nano.
You have probably looked but you haven't knocked it into gear when hoovering? That stops it with no messages.
It doesn't crank if it isn't in P or N, it does nothing (which can be really worrying when you turn the key and absolutely nothing happens).
Check for fuel and spark and go from there.
If you have neither, then its potentially immobiliser related or the crank sensor has taken a dump. Potentially a power issue as well, but if the ECU is responding to fault codes that suggests its powered up.
If you have one or other then you can trace the relevant system.
Got it started after5 minutes of short cranks, it ran for 2 minutes then shut down instantly, another 10-20 cranks it started again, read the codes, P0445 purge valve on evap system, have removed fuel cap and it looks fine, reinstalled and no difference, will order a new cap as precaution, was running perfect when I parked up !
davew wrote:
CKP ?
When mine gets moody I show it this:
I’ll show it a box of matches if it keeps on,,
I just replaced mine last weekend. For what it’s worth you can save yourself a few bucks/pounds/euro by using the Hyundai Sonata or a Santa Fe purge valve.
Hyundai Part number 28910-22040
Exact same part and mine is working a treat.....
I actually replaced mine a year ago, genuine part, can’t see it failing that quick, I’ve got vacuum on the fuel cap, so that seems ok as well, I’m thinking I might have a wire down in the loom, as my lpg failed and I’ve not been able to get that working no matter what I changed ( everything but loom)
What happens with the lpg? If its completely dead I'd have a look where the switched live is being taken from (typically petrol injector positive). If that connection has gone bad, it might account for both problems. Equally I'd expect that to log a fault code though wouldn't like to rely on that without a look.
My usual mind whirring round I’ve just gone out (1.30am) and pulled the purge valve and pipes off, found a wear mark caused by vibration/movement which has worn a tiny hole in the pipe, now it’s where did I put the spare pipes a had,, time to enter the tardis ( my garage) and find them, gonna slide another pipe over it to protect it, hopefully this will sort it, fingers crossed ..
update later when ive done as mentioned above
i very much doubt a hole in the EVAP line would cause a no start. Red herring!
Dont the LPG systems tie into the injector supply? If the LPG is faulty, it could also be causing the petrol injectors to be shut down as well.
Strangely enough, I’ve changed the pipe and it’s starting fine, scratch’s his head ..
The way it was shutting off was weird, was instant, as though you cut power ect.
Stopped and started maybe 50 times now, been out for a drive, all good..
Did you move or disturb any of the intake system/pipes?
When I removed the pipe going from the air filter to the throttle body the engine just died instantly. Maybe you've sealed a leak without knowing it?
Might expect it to start from cold even with the evap pipe pulled off but run poorly and maybe sputter to a stall as it warmed up.
Easiest fix for an evap system that's gone wrong on a simple setup is just to disable it by blanking the manifold and evap solenoid pipe connectors, you can do that on most cars but not on relatively advanced Ford V8 stuff like Ford/Jag engine'd L322's because the ECU is so fussy it can detect if the engine is getting the bit of extra air (with petrol fumes) when the purge valve is pulsing and will throw a code if it gets just a tint bit too much or too little extra air or if the solenoid is unplugged.
Disturbed the air flow meter?
The ECU will compensate for vacuum leaks, to a point.
I had four 8mm holes in the bottom of my inlet manifold when i removed the throttle heater plate and didnt realise they were drilled right thru. The engine started, and ran like a sack of crap, but it ran. If you revved it up above about 2000rpm or so, it ran perfectly. Below there it got leaner and leaner as the proportion of air bypassing the MAF got larger and larger. It wouldnt idle on its own, but if you kept a bit of throttle on it'd sit happily enough at 1000rpm. Once warmed up you could just about manage to get it to settle to an unsteady idle, but it would often just cut out.
Thus a small leak in a vac line, or even pulling the EVAP line off completely, would not give the no-start symptoms you were experiencing.
The engine will also start and run with the AFM completely unplugged. Though it usually takes a few goes where it will fire, catch and cutout, before the ECU realises the AFM signal doesnt make sense and starts ignoring it.
What I was getting at was that it'd probably run much better when first cold started because of the excess fuel factor (choke effect) which on most engines provides a far richer mixture than would be necessary... the excess is usually in excess.