or the "nose" for the top hose... First weekend I got my P38 it over-heated because some fool had fitted a second thermostat in the coolant elbow. I subsequently put on a new gasket and used hylomar on both sides. I pinched the two bolts up as much as I dared, but the joint still (very slowly) wept coolant. After doing a head gasket I did the same - gasket and blue hylomar, and got a torque setting from my Defender 4.0 (26.45.01) of 21 ft lb (the P38 manual seems to overlook the torque for this joint, presumably since it's meant to be empty). Now I've got a new-fangled low range electronic torque wrench I redid the joint with a fibre gasket but no hylomar (manual says not to use compound unless explicitly advised) - now seems to be weeping worse, even after after i flattened it off with 2000 Grit. Has anyone found an effective method for doing this joint?

Mine doesn't weep but I've never taken it off which might have something to do with it. I always use Hylomar blue on gaskets (even the ones they say to fit dry) but if it still leaks, RTV, as it fills the gaps.

The Bearmach gaskets I was using are a composite of aluminium between two fibre layers. I doubt BM made that design up, but just in case I've ordered a LR original for a couple of pounds more, and will revert to using hylomar, as that seems to have produced better results. As you say Gilbert, there's always RTV if i run out of other options, and I also ordered some normal gasket paper in case I need to go old school and make my own.

Tiger seal, if that doesn’t seal it, nothing will

ie PU seam sealant... good shout... I smeared some on both sides of a new gasket, so far, so good