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Hi guys,
No 1, does anyone have the torques for radius arms bolts.

No 2, does anyone have the procedure for tracking, Its always felt ok, but as I’m doing the radius arm bushes, im gonna have it retracked, it took them about an hour last time, but steering wheel was slightly out ( which pees me off )
I will watch them this time to make sure they do it as per book,,
Thanks in advance

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No 1 -

Chassis end 160Nm/118lbft.

Axle end 125Nm/92lbft

No 2 -

https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/p38/57_steering/adjustment/steering_box_centralisation/

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Steering wheel will always be out. It moves depending on ride height (assuming still on air)
You can have it square in one ride height :)

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Only very, very slightly. Mine is straight in normal height and only out by a fraction in motorway. Road camber and crosswinds make more of a difference one way or another.

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Indeed, same as mine.
Just pointing out it will never be perfect.

A bit like all rr lol

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If you think about how the suspension and steering is configured its obvious. As the suspension changes height the panhard rod pushes the axle from side to side but the steering box is on the chassis so doesn't move with the axle. It's the same thing that makes the rear squirm to one side if you go over a speed hump too fast.

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Where's that thumbs up button lol

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Dunno, ask Chris, he managed to put some smiley faces into a post so I'm sure he can do thumbs up too. Surprising really as he uses an iPad and it took him a week to work out how to post pictures.....

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I’m getting better Richard,, still have days where I can post a pic, and the next day I can’t 🤬

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I looked at the page on workshop manual, doesn’t really explain much, it’s just last time there was 3 of them all fluffing about, logically, I’d say centralise the steering box, then adjust front left ( as the bar goes there first, then jump onto front right,, might be easier it the trackrod end is popped off the rh for first adjustment?

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I did the tracking ( but not toe) myself after having to change one of the TREs on the drag link. Get the wheels into dead ahead. Use a silver pen/ paint and mark off the orientation of the adjuster. Your steering wheel is marginally left or right at this point.
Keeping the steering lock off :-) Loosen both clamps on the tracking adjuster, and then adjust the drag link to correct s/w alignment, put a spirit level on top of the steering wheel if you want - the s/w wheel will turn as you adjust the drag link. Tighten, and then check alignmnent on a road run. The paint marks of your start point will help you work out which way and how much you may need to adjust again, if at all. Before you tighten remember to make sure both TREs are aligned in the same vertical axis.

This won't help if someone refitted the s/w wrong, obv